What models used the Moly Blocks?

[KJ's Dodge]

So, what models of Pilothouse trucks used the Moly Blocks? I am just trying to gain a handle on the letter designates and how the various models are powered.

I saw a B4-HA with the 192 wheel base has the small block in it.

That is a really long wheel base but powered with one of the little blocks.

Thanks,

KJ

Edited August 11, 2010 by KJ's Dodge

[HanksB3B]

(I'm already there) but figured I'd break the ice...

I'm not familiar with the term "Molly Blocks". If your said "Motley Blocks" then the attached picture of my 218 might be appropriate.

All jesting aside the Pilot house trucks according to year and model came equipped with either a 218, 230 and 251 cubic inch engines. There are other people that know a lot more than I do about them. They are all flathead engines with some amazing specs for instance the 218 produces 87hp but has over 200 ft/lbs of torque.

I'm sure we'll both learn a lot more from your thread as more knowledgeable answers appear.

Hank

[Reg Evans]

Are you referring to the metallurgy of the block ?

[austinsailor]

the 30" motor had that designation on the side. my 47 3 ton has a 331 ci version. it eventually became a 413 ci monster. a local guy has an industrial one I haven't been able to talk him out of.

these were typically 3 ton up from 46-47 up to about 56.

[Plymouthy Adams]

me thinks he is referring to the "poly" engine

[Young Ed]

Nope Tim the really big flatheads were made of molybendium steel or however you spell that. Thats what he's talking about

[Merle Coggins]

Didn't we just have this conversation? http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=22103

I guess you didn't get the answer you were looking for.

I did a little research in my books and came up empty, however if the Chrome-Nickel Molybdenum designated blocks were only used on the 30" engines that would mean you'd need a 2 1/2 to 3 ton truck to have one of them. They were used in the R, T, and V series trucks in 282, 303, and 331 CID depending on model size and year of manufacture. The 4 ton (Y series) used a 377 or 413 CID engine. Would those be the same block or a larger one?

Merle

[KJ's Dodge]

That is what I was looking for. In what models were the Chrome-Nickel Molybdenum (I believe that is the correct spelling) Iron block with the 30 inch heads used in?

The answer than is the R and up which would equate to multiple ton trucks. Mine is an R that is considered a 2 3/4 ton truck.

Unless I hear otherwise, R, T, V, Y series trucks.

Did all the later trucks in this category come stock with the dual carbs and dual exhaust or was this an option? I know that was introduced in the 1950 models.

Thanks,

KJ

Edited August 12, 2010 by KJ's Dodge

[Plymouthy Adams]

my error..get yourself a gut twisting 413 and put it on a Woods finishing mower..pull it with your Pilot-house...shoot the clippings to your neighbor's yard...

[austinsailor]

I'd love to get the 413 the guy here has, put a good cam in it, shave the head, add some carbs and have an absolute powerhouse of a flathead 6. Imagine, steep gears for low engine speed on the highway, but so much torque you could just launch at the light. It would make a 265 Chrysler with speed parts look like a lawn mower engine!

[dontknowitall]

Hi folk, I see the pic of the block with Bronse "freeze Plugs".. some one wrote me never to use these plugs,

see the email I recieved..

Dear 53leiden,

Absolutely not! These are steel except fot the one behind the cam which is brass. You DO NOT want non-ferrous (brass/bronze) core plugs in contact with the engine block and an electrolyte (the coolant). That sets up a galvanic battery taht erodes the cast-iron block. Ever have a boat with a sacrificial zinc plate? Your engine become the sacrificial anode. Chemistry 101!

- atlasparts

What is your take on this?

[PatS....]

Here's a 331 being rebuilt for a 40's big Dodge. There is a fairly detailed "blog" on the restoration process...Check the home page and scroll to the bottom.

http://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/dodge_rebuild/part11_engine.htm

[HanksB3B]

Hi folk, I see the pic of the block with Bronse "freeze Plugs".. some one wrote me never to use these plugs,

see the email I recieved..

Dear 53leiden,

Absolutely not! These are steel except fot the one behind the cam which is brass. You DO NOT want non-ferrous (brass/bronze) core plugs in contact with the engine block and an electrolyte (the coolant). That sets up a galvanic battery taht erodes the cast-iron block. Ever have a boat with a sacrificial zinc plate? Your engine become the sacrificial anode. Chemistry 101!

- atlasparts

What is your take on this?

Should I be concerned here ?

Thanks,

Hank

[Reg Evans]

I don't think so. I've always heard that the bronze plugs were longer lasting.

[desoto1939]

Should I be concerned here ?

Thanks,

Hank

The gentleman that is making the statement about the brass plugs is a mopar parts supplier. My other question would be they make brass water distribution tubes. Then i quess we should not use these either and also why then would we not have a problem of the type that he is diescribing because we all use brass themostats inthe engine block and the themostat housing and since the water is always moving past this area then why does this not cause a problem?

We have been using cast blocks ever since we started making cars and have used brass themostats for as long as I can remember.

Also if our radiator cores had some brass then i quess we should also get rid of these because of the same chemical reaction. I still have the original engine in my 39 Desoto that has over 94K miles then why is my engine block not rusted away according to what he is stating or am I missing something?

If someone can enlighten then this would be helpful.

Rich

Desoto1939@aol.com

Edited August 12, 2010 by desoto1939

[HanksB3B]

I feel like I can breath a sigh of relief here. I actually believe I have a set of NOS freeze plugs that I picked up at mother of all swapmeets...The Rose Bowl Mopar Swap Meet 1980. I wish I had a time machine...you would not have believed what was available and how much of it was there.

I'll try to get a picture of the freeze plugs they looked more like bronze than the shiny brass you see on my block.

Thanks,

Hank

P.S. K.J. I told you this would turn out to be an informative thread, thanks for starting it.

[John-T-53]

If you use distilled water + antifreeze, then there is no electrolyte situation created. Right?

Is it possible or worth it to install a sacrificial anode bar into the engine's water jacket to prevent corrosion? Water heaters have something like this, usually zinc, to prolong the tank's life. Engine blocks have a lot of iron to corrode through before they become useless, so not really necessary here, but when we're looking at preserving our 50 year-old blocks for another 50 or 100 years or more, maybe worth it? Just a brain dump...

Edited August 12, 2010 by John-T-53

[dontknowitall]

well, lots of answers but I still am not the wiser.. I am trying to find a set of freeze plugs but when asking for the bronse ones I got told of as u see... so 2 questions:

does napa sell freeze plugs, or where do I get the bronze ones and are these safe to use..

[TodFitch]

well, lots of answers but I still am not the wiser.. I am trying to find a set of freeze plugs but when asking for the bronse ones I got told of as u see... so 2 questions:

does napa sell freeze plugs, or where do I get the bronze ones and are these safe to use..

I don't see the freeze/welch/core plugs in the 1936-48 Plymouth parts book but the Chrysler number for them in my 1928-33 Plymouth parts book is 117924 for the 1 5/8 inch ones. That interchanges to a Dorman 550-023 which, at least in the US, can be found in any of your better local auto supply stores.

[dontknowitall]

Napa online list them (bronze) but dont give me a cost price..

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Results.aspx?Ntt=freeze%20plugs&Ntk=Keyword&N=599001+101950+50022+2022101

[Frank Elder]

The gentleman that is making the statement about the brass plugs is a mopar parts supplier. My other question would be they make brass water distribution tubes. Then i quess we should not use these either and also why then would we not have a problem of the type that he is diescribing because we all use brass themostats inthe engine block and the themostat housing and since the water is always moving past this area then why does this not cause a problem?

We have been using cast blocks ever since we started making cars and have used brass themostats for as long as I can remember.

Also if our radiator cores had some brass then i quess we should also get rid of these because of the same chemical reaction. I still have the original engine in my 39 Desoto that has over 94K miles then why is my engine block not rusted away according to what he is stating or am I missing something?

If someone can enlighten then this would be helpful.

Rich

Desoto1939@aol.com

By the time the brass actually affects the cast[dissimilar metal corrosion] we will be driving flying cars, or our great, great grandchildren's grandchildren will be. It is not a concern like galvanic corrosion or aluminum on steel corrosion.

These things I learned in Naval Metal Smith school, unless you drive your truck on salted roads all winter or on the beach, it will take a very long time for the brass to react to the cast.

My 2 cents.....please subtract due to inflation:eek:

[OLD DODGE]

Did all the later trucks in this category come stock with the dual carbs and dual exhaust or was this an option?

KJ,

From January 1951

"NOTE: To meet the heavy demand for twin carburetors, manifolds and exhaust systems and for vibration dampers on R and RA model trucks and to expedite production of these models, this equipment will be installed on all these model trucks. The extra equipment charges for these items will apply."

The same note applied to the T, TA, V, and VA model trucks. This means that you would have to special order one of these to get a single carb set up.

The model Y and YA are listed as only coming with the dual carb set up.

Edited August 14, 2010 by OLD DODGE