How to Make a Simple Job into a Difficult Job

[GeorgeLeonard]

I thought I would change the rear shocks on my 1950 Plymouth this weekend- normally a nice, simple, satisfying job. Well, the left side went swimmingly so why shouldnt the right side go just as well? The attached photo of the right upper rear shock mount is self explanatory. Oh well, no cruising for me this weekend!

Does anyone have one of these that they would be willing to sell? It would help me greatly and get my car back on the road. Of course I would be willing to pay whatever you think its worth including shipping. Although its for a '50 Plymouth, Im pretty sure that other cars may use the same type mounting. Thanks for any help.

[billwillard]

Napa Or any parts store.

[GeorgeLeonard]

When pieced back together, the overall length appears to be 4 11/16". If its available from NAPA, that makes this post irrelevant. Ill check this afternoon. If I can get it, Ill be cruising on Memorial Day afterall! I will let you all know and thanks for the suggestion.

[billwillard]

They will have to order it but can get it.

[GeorgeLeonard]

Just got back from the auto parts store and NAPA. In both places, all I got was dumb looks. Nobody offered any ideas on where I could get one. So Im back to square one and asking if anyone on the list has one to sell.

Of course, if anyone knows where one can be ordered that would be helpful. As I said, my local NAPA had no clue.

[greg g]

Jeeeze, JC whitney show something very silimilar for 6 bucks. How hard can it be for the fools at the parts stores to come up with something?????

[Andydodge]

George, would it be easier to take it to someone with a lathe/machine shop and get one made, they are just mild steel as far as I know, good luck, andyd

[billwillard]

Tell the dumb as_ you talked with at napa to look under shocks. Better yet ask for the manager and see if he is any smarter.

[GeorgeLeonard]

I thought about doing that and was going to do it until I noticed (or think I see) that the section that goes through the cars frame is tapered. I looks as if the nut on the end pulls the tapered shoulder through the frame until it is seated properly. Any bolt I would buy would not have that taper and I dont know how important that would be.

Of course, I could be wrong about the taper but that is how it appears to me. I slid a washer onto the end and it didnt go all the way. Could someone tell me if I am wrong about this taper? Because making one up as suggested would definitely be the easiest way to go.

I may be wrong about the taper, but if I am not, I dont think that I will be able to get this item from anyone other than a junkyard or if one of you fellows can help me out with parts from a parts car that you would be willing to sell. I dont think there are any junkyards in New Jersey that would have any cars older than 1990.

[1947PLEVY]

Have you looked at NAPA's online catalog for it? If you can find the part # just tell them what to order. That's what our NAPA said, he also said he give me a 10% discount. Pretty Good huh:D.

God Bless Us All. John 47Plevy

[Young Ed]

Drill the old one out to accept a bolt to hold the shock on. I believe Dad did that to the one I broke on his 54 plymouth

[james curl]

You can go to the help section of any parts house and look for shock mount studs. Some stores have all of their help parts together and some place them with related items, shocks in this case. Speedway sells them and you can get two day service.

[dezeldoc]

I pulled mine and looked and it does not appear to be tapered, i second the bolt and sleeve deal if you can't find one.

[GeorgeLeonard]

Well, if the problem can be solved with a simple bolt and washer arrangement, it really makes you wonder about the superiority of Chrysler engineering in the first place. I mean, why did they have to make this part so complex and expensive to manufacture, just to hold the top of the shock absorber?

Im betting that this same piece was used on many years of Chrysler products. Couldnt they have thought of a simpler way to make this? Im glad that I was able take it out and have a chance at repairing or replacing it. Dont you think that nowadays the manufacturer would have just welded the shock mount in place and called it good? As my status suggests, perhaps I just have too much time on my hands to wonder about such things.

Short of replacement, I think Young Eds Father's method is the best. Now all I need is a drill press and the knowledge/ability to drill and tap a hole that will accept a new bolt. But learning to do new things is part of the fun of restoring an old car, right? The only problem is that you are so anxious to get it back on the road that its difficult to take the time to learn new things.

[Frank Elder]

http://www.ctcautoranch.com

These people are located in Denton, Tx. They have 6 49 plymouths, 5 50 plymouths, 1 53 plymouth, and 2 53 plymouth parts cars. I bet they have one:D

1-800-482-6199

They sell titled cars nos parts and used parts also.

[TodFitch]

...snip... Im betting that this same piece was used on many years of Chrysler products. ..snip...

Kind of, sort of. The 1936-48 parts book shows, if I count them correctly, 15 different part numbers for part type code 17-23-56 "Shock Absorber Studs". So not only did Chrysler engineering feel obliged to use this type of mount on many years of Plymouth but they felt obliged to make a number of variations on them.

[Tim Frank]

Well, if the problem can be solved with a simple bolt and washer arrangement, it really makes you wonder about the superiority of Chrysler engineering in the first place. I mean, why did they have to make this part so complex and expensive to manufacture, just to hold the top of the shock absorber?

Im betting that this same piece was used on many years of Chrysler products. Couldnt they have thought of a simpler way to make this? Im glad that I was able take it out and have a chance at repairing or replacing it. Dont you think that nowadays the manufacturer would have just welded the shock mount in place and called it good? As my status suggests, perhaps I just have too much time on my hands to wonder about such things.

Short of replacement, I think Young Eds Father's method is the best. Now all I need is a drill press and the knowledge/ability to drill and tap a hole that will accept a new bolt. But learning to do new things is part of the fun of restoring an old car, right? The only problem is that you are so anxious to get it back on the road that its difficult to take the time to learn new things.

I am not sure that a drill press is the best approach....verrrrry tough to get an on-center hole when drilling that length.

If you can access a metal lathe, chuck it up and drill from the tail stock.

That way you will be on-center the whole length.

[Plymouthy Adams]

I don't see anything complex about it..rather simple..instead of a stud welded to the frame on the upper end or in the case of the lower, welded to the spring plate..they made it so it will easily bolt in place and then allow the shock to slip on and nut up...that my friend is as simple a design as you can get....

[falconvan]

How have you been, George? Did you get that beast on the road yet?