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I have been using ospho for a rust converter. I have found a brush is the best way to apply it. I buy the cheap $1 nylon paint brushes from wherever I can find them .... throw them away when done. Just suggesting all rust converters have the same basic main ingredient. Ospho is something I pick up at my local hardware store & is cheap compared to some other brands. You can buy rust converter from Eastwood automotive products for a premium price ..... same main ingredient as ospho from Ace hardware. They both do the same job ..... one may do it better I can not say .... ospho been working for me.

I would guess because is just my opinion .... not a fact. Looking at the years of the cars .... Who was the competition? .... Cadillac, Packard .... there were a few fast cars back then. What were the road conditions? If we are talking a high speed chase through New York City .... Traffic would limit speeds. They did not have the quality of freeways or highways at this time .... Just because a car was capable of going faster, does not mean it was safe to go faster. Mopar did have what some consider the best braking of the day. The engines had a better oiling system then some other cars of the day .... they would run hard longer then others. They had a good front suspension & steering compared to other cars. Ford came out with the V8 in 1932. .... My 1951 Ford V8 factory has 5 HP more then my 1950 Dodge 218 6cyl. ..... In this time era, the 218 was quite capable. You are very correct in your assumptions though .... I want to think around 1948 .... Mopar was good enough for most competition. Was during this time that competition did get stronger .... Mopar kept up.

Just curious, what do you think is wrong with it? Has it ever ran since you have owned it? Or has it just been parked non running for a long time.

We all love safety .... I think @MarcDeSoto description is fair. These fans are dangerous. Is our duty to inspect them & see they are in good condition. They do fail. I had a 1969 1 ton 390 4 bbrl on my way to work one morning it was running rough. I backed up my long drive way and was standing on my stool with the hood open trying to figure out why it was running so rough. I whacked the throttle a few times .... kicked in the 4 barrels, and a fan blade cut loose & buried itself into the inner fender just a few inches from my chest. Was the loose blade causing the rough running & vibration I was searching for. That was one time I almost died. It all happened so fast. I was on a stool, leaning over the fender .... raised the rpm a few times & the fan blade stuck into the inner fender just a few inches below my chest ..... It was so close too sticking into my chest .... 7:00 AM I went in & fixed a whiskey drink to calm my nerves .... called the boss said I would not be in today. Then changed my underwear. Just saying, yah I would not want to stick a finger into one at a idle either.

They are just small tractors .... You find more uses for them when you have them. .... I pull a trailer with mine all year long. With my legs, I use it to haul trash out to the alley to avoid the walking .... I use it to haul dirt or compost around. I need to haul the old seat from my Dodge to the barn ..... I use the trailer all the time year round. Last year I used the Lil JD to pull the wife car into the carport for a engine swap. It did ok until it was uphill. My 150# with the tractor on concrete .... it was just spinning the rear tires. I knew if my wife with her added weight drove the tractor, it would work. I stopped & said we need to use the truck ..... Why I'm married for over 30 years These little tractors are not expensive, great little tools to have around .... the longer you have them, the more uses you come up with to use them.

Yeah we do not want to talk on that soap box here where our tax $$ is being spent. Good day here .... I planted several peppers & tomato plants today. Last month been growing them indoors and getting them hardened off to set outside. Today was the day. I picked up some Chebby bucket seats yesterday ..... Cheap & filthy .... just my style. Need to unload them and set them in the Dodge .... I think they will be sweet Life is good!

There you go, take care of them and they have the potential to run a real long time. One problem with the JD, is the electrical. Mine needs a new ignition switch. On the JD it is actually on a circuit board that doubles as a fuse box ... all the electric runs through it. So a $12 ignition switch just turned into a $150 OEM part replacement. I dunno, maybe the sears is the same way ... I have not looked. I just installed a push button on the jd to start it. .... My plans have changed since I picked up this pile of junk. My next stage on the JD is to pull the motor & lift off the body. Hit all the lubrication points, new brake pads, change oil in the transmission, new fuel lines .... has a noisy bearing on the pto. .... New wiring. .... It works fine just the way it is now. So I'm thinking to just pull the body off of the Sears mower and go through it. They have plastic fuel tanks, no rust issues but may need cleaned. They have a single disk brake on the rear axle .... simple to deal with. Hit all the lubrication point, get all the doo dads moving freely. Belts & bearings. Do something with the paint ... I like the color combo but new paint ... new seat, new shift knobs. I figure to have between $200-$400 depending on paint & cosmetics. If I get another 20 years out of it will work for me. May be the oldest mower on the block .... I'm fine with that. My neighbor is connected with some race cars, use to do his test & tuning in front of my house till the police got on him. I assume he is mechanically inclined .... He is on his 3rd mower in 4 years .... buys them used & wont work on them .... run em til they drop & replace. I feel no shame driving a old mower that works well. The parts are cheap enough, just labor & time that cost.

Thats a good find for information .... That girl is pretty solid on her advice, I have watched many of her videos. Seems to be after the fact, after the machine is already bought. Seems to be poorly built .... the steering really does look funky .... but with maintenance can be ok? I try to joke about my 30 year old mower. I feel like it was built pretty well ... with maintenance it will work a long time. Parts are available cheap. It is a 38" John Deere .... Again I have less then $400 into this mower & it works like new. $100 to get it working, then $300 over the next 3 years to improve it. Not pretty but it does the job. I use it all year long if not mowing I pull a trailer behind it. I have a Sears Craftsman 42" mower given to me for free. The problem with the machine was it cut terrible. So it sat for 5 years and they gave it to me. When I loaded it up, I noticed the blades were installed upside down. Then it needs a wheel bracket welded back on. Just basic issues. Thats my goal, restore/repair the Sears Craftsman 42" ..... It really is built better then the John Deere. I like manual transmissions because I can mow while backing up. .... Only experience I had with a Auto trans you had to shut off the mower deck or flip a switch to back up. Problem is time. I thought it would be a quick pull the body off, go through the bearings, fuel system, lubrication points .... clean & paint .... will be a great mower to last years ... I simply can not find the time .... while trying to work on a old Dodge truck, keep the daily driver going. ..... I need to sharpen the blades on the JD mower now ... after I just installed new wheel bearings & fresh oil .... just never find time to work on the next project. I do not think I would spend much $$ on the rear engine mower showed .... I would toss $$ into a old mower instead .... But I am retired & have time for nonsense.

I love it!

Yes I also like seeing this old type of auto repairs. I like to watch some of JonathanW work on youtube with his old steam engines. He posted a couple videos on how he makes his babbit bearings. Here is one of them .... not sure what is included in it. I have watched one video where he shows how he picks the junk metal to melt down to come up with his own recipe for bronze. Not really high tech, but works for the RPM his old engines work at.

Thinking the rear bumper was a option. So some would not have them. I do not like the bumper previous owner put on mine ... it is what it is. Big chunk of 6" angle iron welded to the frame. Right now would be a good time to change it. ..... Something is better then nothing. .... I'm going to leave it for now. That is a future Fred problem. Your truck is too nice to have a bumper like mine .... I have some 2.5" pipe sitting around, Clean it up & paint it, put some end caps on it. you could use that I was talking to a engineer one time while he was replacing a brass screw block on a $100k piece of equipment. I asked why do they make the block out of brass, when you know it will wear out? He replied, it is a sacrificial piece. The 8' threaded shaft is way more expensive to replace then the block .... I learned from that statement. IMHO, your rear bumper is the sacrificial piece. It is way cheaper & easier too touch up the paint on it, then repair a ding in the tailgate or match up body paint ... replace a broken tail light. Just depends how you will use the truck .... A simple mistake backing up at the grocery store could cause hundreds of $$ damage, or a scratched bumper.

driveshaft looks good now ... you ready to do mu u-joints? I'm thinking not engaged. When mine was out of adjustment, I had to push it all the way to the floor. I could feel the difference from just stretching out the spring & the very last 1" it got harder to press as it was engaging the clutch. I'm just thinking you should be able to feel the difference in spring tension & when the pressure plate is actually engaging. After adjusting mine, I can now feel a few inches of spring travel then the pressure plate is activated .... no longer need to push it all the way to the floor. I feel like I adjusted it too much, now need to back it off a bit. You should feel the 2 stages of tension when putting in the clutch.

I wonder if it is true? I hear cork gaskets need to be soaked in oil before installation. On modern engines I have been able to get rubber gaskets far superior to cork. Old wife tale says to soak them in oil for 24 hours then install them .... they swell up & seal better. I dunno. I always liked the rubber gaskets when I could find them.

I wish you luck. When I rebuilt my MC, I spent a whole day chasing down leaks with the new lines & getting pressure too them. Then I replaced the old MC because it failed with my rebuild with a newer 2 stage MC. I then chased leaks for a day on the new improved brake lines. Been a couple weeks now .... I turned the truck around in the driveway ..... I noticed two separate leaks that are a easy fix. Just a few drips then stopped .... but 2 weeks after installing the lines. ...... Never over until it is over.

NO NO NO! This will never work for a owner of a 1938 Chrysler. You need the 30 year old 1994 mower for all the experience it will give you. You just cant imagine the hours of fun you will have driving a old mower. My 1994 John Deere I paid $35 for it. The starter was ok, but a kid took it apart & it never worked since. It actually has a Kawasaki engine .... with a new battery & starter it runs well. The Deck was rusted out .... good practice patching it back up. I never seen blades so worn out ..... is only a 38" mower but gets through my gate from the barn to the front yard. The deck bearings all needed replaced .... I probably have $200-$300 in this mower .... I really like the fact it has a manual transmission .... I have bad feelings about about the automatics. I did make a hood for it ..... 1994 they were plastic and all of them disintegrated. New blades, battery, starter, bearings , body & paint ... a couple tires .... It runs & performs like a new machine. Yeah it goes slow .... I mow in 1rst gear. If I drive faster in 2nd gear It cuts terrible. I realize if I increase the rpm the blades turn faster .... will cut better at high speeds ..... I just have a comfortable rpm I like to run the engine at. So I putt around in 1rst gear slow speed & cut the grass. .... works for me. Is fun to watch the new zero turn mowers with large motors on them ..... looks like a carnival ride watching them go back & forth. My 30 year old mower never misses a lick .... I just putt around on it & get the job done.

Lots of different gasket sealers .... I'm not suggesting it is the correct fix. When I suggest it might be adequate I'm thinking of this product here. Just what I have used for gaskets for years ... A brown gooie shellac that dries. I'm not thinking of silicone products. Along the line of using pipe dope or Teflon tape tape to seal head bolts going into water passages. The bolts & threads are good, they get a lot of torque .... they still leak if no sealer on them. So I think it is a legitimate cure .... not mickey mouse. Yet I do not know what would be the best product. This is just my usual go to that I have a few bottles around.

There is a trick I learned years ago. Use a $1 bill over the tail pipe exit. The idea is that a engine is a air pump, it should push the $1 bill straight out. The only reason the bill would flap back & forth is if the valves are not seating. .... sucking air back up the tail pipe ..... should not happen. Just a quick & dirty test to check your valves. My engine has sat for many years .... it runs ok in the driveway .... Because I'm married ... I do not have a $1 bill in my wallet .... I used a piece of notebook paper to try the test. It flapped back & forth so fast it tore the paper in 1/2. My valves are not seating ... will cause a rough idle and poor reading on plugs for those cylinders. For me that is a future Fred problem I will fix. .... for now I get by running in the driveway. A quick & dirty test to check your valves.

I honestly have never worked with this type or your u-joints. ..... Or my Cleveland U-joints .... will be a learning experience for me. My 1991 chebby, you press in the cap & then there is a snap ring that holds the cap in place. They have to be totally inserted all the way in order to get the snap ring in place. There is no way to install them wrong ..... unless you are me and 1 of the needle bearings is not set proper & you beat it into submission. There should be some clip or ring that holds the cap in place ..... I have never worked on this style of u-joint before .... so I do not know. The u-joint is obviously off center ... only a 1/16" or 1/8" .... that would cause the off balance you see in your video. You will have to correct this. It could be all your problem, or just get you closer to fixing your problem.

Good eye @Sam Buchanan Is this what you are seeing?

I have a pair of vise grips clamped on the frame, then some bailing wire creating a loop for a spring to hook too ..... until I get the floor back in. The only way the u-joint could cause your issue is if it was frozen & not rotating freely. @kencombs is correct suggesting to look at the flange .... Your u-joints look terrible .... as they are they would self destruct in a few years or a few thousand miles. The brown rust with fresh grease creates mud. I think NOS parts is great for many things .... I personally have not heard anyone complain about quality of modern u-joints. Yours look absolutely terrible for being nos. You need to clean them up, make sure there is no pitting on the shaft or needle bearings then assemble them & re-install .... meaning you need to press them out from the drive line to accomplish this. Not a big deal to clean them & inspect ..... A typical u-joint is maybe $10-$15 ? Only suggesting I might just buy new ones if they are a reasonable price. In my truck I have Cleveland u-joints. Cheapest replacements I know about is on ebay for $101 each + shipping. I only hope mine look as good as yours when I remove them to clean & inspect. .... I will be cleaning mine & hoping they are usable. Or I may go deeper with a rear end & drive line swap .... To avoid $100 u-joints in the future.

Interesting oil leak ..... I can imagine how it could leak ..... 70 year old engine & bolts. I assume the threaded hole is exposed to oil on the other end. I think the torque on these bolts is really low. Over torque a cork gasket and cause a different leak or distort the flat edge of the pan. Possibly a new bolt would fix it, or maybe some gasket sealer on the threads of the bolt. Maybe it will go away with a few heat cycles .... just double check the bolt is snug. Glad to see progress

I still say IF! a u-joint was frozen, it would not rotate as it should. Pinion angle is important .... I think your jack stands are under the axle ... basically as good as it gets with the weight you have. Imagine if the jack stands were under the frame & the axle hanging down .... That would change the pinion angle a lot. The pinion angle will affect it at driving speeds. .... not so much while sitting on jack stands with weight on the axle. Your problem appears to be at the front u-joint. That yoke needs to move freely The u-joint needs to move freely. The plate the u-joint bolts to, needs to sit flat & flush. The output shaft from the transmission needs to be straight & true. If you remove the drive line from the transmission, then run it again .... you can see if it still happens at the end of the transmission where u-joint connects. Then remove the The connection there & check the run out on the tail shaft ..... Systematically 1 piece at a time you can find the issue here.

There you go! Installing fresh U-joints & grease a few months ago you know the condition of the drive line ..... IMHO, you have to know that is correct before looking elsewhere. Seems something is not sitting flat as it should .... You have a wonderful opportunity for improvement here .... You get to take it apart & do it again Just to be fair, 2 or 3 years ago I put new u-joints, carrier bearing in my daily driver 2 piece drive shaft. I screwed up the front u-joint installing it. It worked but did give some vibration & howled .... 6 months later I replaced it ... again. I do not think that is a good idea. ..... If the rear end is a limited slip like I think ours is, the wheel that spins is chosen by traction .... If you add traction to the left wheel it will spin.

I'm only suggesting, if you drive through Roswell you will see items like this. There is one display 20-30 feet tall downtown advertising the "Aliens" ..... But a smaller item like @Ulu is showing ..... could be on any counter in Roswell. So naturally we think of Roswell ..... Still a cool item ..... Value of item I could not guess. I would expect several of them in Roswell .... same time are survivors valuable?

I can toss out a couple opinions on the drive shaft ..... A: ... it kinda wants a load on it, sitting on jackstands ... no body, no weight ..... the pinion angle is not where it would normally be. B: When is the last time you greased the u-joints & the yoke? I get it, all looks nice and new .... Are those u-joints brand new 20 years ago with 20 year old grease in them? My truck does something similar but not as bad as yours ... when I let out the clutch, I can see it divert off of a straight path .... Breaks my heart I know I need to take the drive line out, including the yoke .... clean everything and add fresh grease . As Sam says, the front U-joint looks stiff & not moving/rotating as it should. My truck uses Cleveland U-joints $110 each on epay .... I will try to take mine apart and clean & grease them .... same with the yoke, make sure it slides smooth. KK funny story time. I had a old Toyota car that just ran great and we drove it often. Paid $300 for it at a auction .... pooched quarter panel & a blue door on a red car.. After driving it for years with giving it no maintenance. A u-joint actually froze up on it. The symptoms were, you drive it and give it the gas .... would seem fine .... let off on the gas and the rear end would bounce all around rolling up to a stop light. I actually swapped in a new rear end because I thought that was the issue. Then I got smart, pulled the driveline back out ... rotated the u-joints by hand & found the frozen one. Replaced it & drove the car another 5 years. A stiff u-joint will cause the issue you are seeing. Could be other things but first thing to check. A dried up or non working accelerator pump will cause your other issue with acceleration.