Los_Control

With the research or reading I have done, it is possible to do this. ...... Just not easy. Some suggest to not waste your time, just cut the extra wires off. <--- I have mixed feelings. I honestly think the wiring harness is fine for a car. I would not hesitate to use it. A car has enough Dashboard you can bury all the extra wire behind it .... or use it. My truck has very little extra room under the dash. I would not want to stuff it with extra wire. Trying to chase down a future wiring issue would be a nightmare. The truck needs just a couple wires to work properly when it is close to stock. Why I'm thinking a couple of these in line fuses at a easy spot to get to. Then the small fuse block I showed, it needs power supplied to each fuse. I get to choose if the circuit is hot always, or switched with the ignition. Lets be honest, my wiring harness was $39 from Amazon with free shipping. Just to have 15' of several different colors of wire is worth more then $30. Just saying, a 1950 Dodge Cornet I would use it .... My truck I will not. We all need to make our own decisions.

Change the oil asap .... If it is a fresh rebuilt engine, there will be questionable crap that comes out of it .... Is expected. Will be fine metal grindings from the cast iron rings sealing with the fresh cross hatched cylinder walls. All the extra assembly lube getting sucked into the oil passages .... I just bought a used engine that sat for 8 years ... off topic V6. It did have the usual issues starting up, then ran just perfect. I drove it for 25 miles around town over a few days ..... took it on the freeway and spun a bearing in 15 miles. I feel I should have treated the fresh oil as break in oil ... may still be running. No idea about your transmission. ..... Any fresh oil for the engine will be better then whats in it now.

Not sure what your thoughts are. .... I'm still focusing on brakes right now, got my master cylinder in today. So I have been thinking about the wiring that is coming up soon. Now I know that I do not want to use the flasher/hazard on the new wiring harness. I really do not see a good way to un-pin the wires to the fuse box, so I can modify it to what I want. I can't wrap my head around the installation. I think I have decided I will order a 3 pin flasher wiring harness, I will add a inline fuse to it. covers turn signals/brakes. I will add a inline fuse to the headlights also when I wire them in. covers headlights/tail lights I picked up this small 5 circuit fuse box today. Will be my heater, radio, dash lights .... future electric wipers? I just can not bring myself to install the aftermarket wiring harness in this plain simple truck. I will cannibalize the wiring from the harness. There is a lot of wire & different colors. <---- worth the price of the wire harness. That's my thoughts on the wiring harness after thinking about it. I need to invest in some quality ends to make up the new harness.

Hope someone saves this one. Looks pretty decent. Started out at $350 now is down to $100. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/585326590129393/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_general&referral_story_type=general&tracking={"qid"%3A"-4688956121014391393"%2C"mf_story_key"%3A"991821135005909038"%2C"commerce_rank_obj"%3A"{\"target_id\"%3A991821135005909038%2C\"target_type\"%3A6%2C\"primary_position\"%3A18%2C\"ranking_signature\"%3A6368955742803722240%2C\"commerce_channel\"%3A501%2C\"value\"%3A0.0001004792368451%2C\"upsell_type\"%3A3523%2C\"candidate_retrieval_source_map\"%3A{\"5888514724555436\"%3A3001}%2C\"grouping_info\"%3Anull}"%2C"lightning_feed_qid"%3A"-4688973094794990151"%2C"lightning_feed_ranking_signature"%3A"7274994985273917440"%2C"ftmd_400706"%3A"111112l"}

Probably about the best I can do. With the lighting & camera I have. I'm facing the sun (South) so there is no shadow ... now the sun is getting in the West there is too much light, losing my shade. Regardless, there is enough light I am shooting blind ... I can not see a thing through the camera lens. Just point & shoot. If I stand up, then you see it is just my junk trailer I keep scrap metal in. I wonder if taking pictures at dark using a flash would be different? .... I wonder what it is like being awake after dark?

Welll, you asked for character .... I do have one swinging in the breeze .... set up in the back store room now .... it is a little shiny though.

was taking a picture of the center brace ... and too shiny .... might try tomorrow if you want a old dull photo.

I do have a pair of signal lights that came from a 1960's COE International truck. These were mounted on the dash. Turn signal indicators. Just not convinced I want to add them to a 1949 pilothouse

Wow Thanks for that photo @Young Ed ... one thing I have found. There are 4 wire, 5 wire, 6 wire, 7 wire .... think I have even seen a 11 wire signal stat switch. So there are several different diagrams for them on line. This item I have right here seems to fit perfectly. Green - left front Red - right front Gray - left rear Black - right rear Gray / Black - stop light switch Yellow - flasher (load) Blue - flasher (pilot) Just saying the blue wire is for a indicator light on the switch itself .... My switch does not have that. Pretty confident I can use your photo to either wire my switch or create a wall hanger

I think we have the same kit, assembled by different companies? Mine is a 12 circuit, with 2 blank holes to add on, making it a 14 circuit like yours. I think your labeling makes sense ..... my label the author did not understand English? I think they will be fine for our application. I have never wired a car before .... As a old remodel carpenter, I'm pretty comfortable with home wiring. I am going to struggle with turn signal, 4 way flasher .... As long as I just keep focused on 1 circuit at a time ... I feel confident. K.I.S.S. I can focus on this, and complete this circuit. Thinking I may need to get a old school 3 prong flasher to work. This circuit depending how I provide power, would determine if the flashers & turn signals work with the key on or off. I'm fine with the turn signals working with the key off. ... Old school. Key on I could burn the points while using the flashers while waiting for a tow. Same time it frees up another relay spot in the fuse box. .... Removing the Hazard relay from the system. Currently my issue is figure out the color code on this switch .... has been rewired. They did not use original wire color. I'm satisfied with the quality of work/material .... I have left/right front/rear figured out .... guessing black goes to flasher & red goes to brake switch.

Tis true .... needs to be on TDC when the oil pump is installed. The oil pump is geared, can be 1 tooth off or several teeth off. .... Some installers never bother to put it on TDC first. There is a pipe plug over #6 cylinder, this will help you find TDC. I just put #6 at TDC compression stroke using the pipe plug .... then run my wires starting from 6 instead of 1. 7:0'clock is correct position for #1 plug wire .... mine is at 6 0'clock .... oil pump is 1 tooth off.

Thanks, I saved the pdf and a quick glance it could be very helpful. Looking at what I have .... I believe the flasher & Haz are wired correct. A/C, headlight, ACC1, ACC2, Heater .... these are solid circuits with hefty wire that can be used. The silly label .... IGN BATT .... wiper ign .... ign on .... wiper/ign .... makes no sense to me. My wires have zero markings on them .... as I create the circuits I will label them in some way. I have a stomp starter, vacuum wipers, chebby 1 wire alternator .... headlights Turn signals dash lights heater radio usb charger This fuse box is overkill. I'm thinking there are some generic tools like a key, where you insert the key and releases the connectors holding the wires into the fuse box? ....... I have to research this yet. .... Thinking I can remove some & clean it up. My turn signal switch has been rewired, No idea about the color code .... I have to open it up and see. I think we just call it work .... I have to draw a map, hit one circuit at a time & get er did.

Well the MC won the battle. Got it all back together and bled the system. Same time RF wheel cylinder seems clogged ... no fluid coming through. Pedal felt pretty good considering the RF wheel issue...... Never a good idea to install wheel cylinders, then wait 2 years to bleed them. Anyways I stood on the brakes, MC blew out. no leaks, no pressure, just a sucking sound. I have a Toyota MC on the way. Been paying more attention to wiring lately. I originally planned on just building my own wire harness from scratch. I have been collecting rolls of wire & needed supplies. I decided to go ahead and buy a "cheap" 12 circuit wiring harness. I needed a fuse box & flasher setup. I have read that these cheaper harness are always short on wire length. Sometimes they are not properly labeled .... someone just sticking wires in wherever .... They have little or no instructions. Otherwise they are of usable quality <---- subject to personal opinion. Exactly what I got, no instructions not even a name so I can look it up. The vinyl sticker on the cover is confusing & only partially correct, I'm going to have to spend time and re label everything. I still have not figured out how to remove the wires or add new ones. .... The box will work out ok in the end. It will not save me any time, it will cost me time trying to decipher & modify & label everything.

Sometimes I wish I kept my keyboard to myself .... or had a rewind button. Honestly I appreciate the skill & effort that went into the car .... way above my skill level today. Some cars simply should not be chopped ... imho. Seriously, just my opinion. The rest of the work is not terrible .... That car needs a new roof line. Anyone been watching this dude build this 35 Dodge? .... He claims it was 35 Dodge parts anyways ... then later he bought a 35 Desoto for parts. He has done the roof maybe 3 times so far to get it where it is? I am not against chopping a roof ... I just think some style needs to go with it.

I have a sigstat 900 .... not working worth a crap right now ?

Translated .... You need a BFH!

OMG!!! first thing that pops into my mind is birth control. On a side note, I think it is great to do whatever you want .... not what others did.

I can only imagine that different tank manufactures use different threads .... metric, SAE, course or fine ..... no screws provided makes it more universal.

A very wise man once said ..... If it does not feel right, it probably isn't. Seems neutral should be middle & horizontal. At least my truck is. Every inch of pull taken away from one direction, is less one inch of push in the other direction. Seems your linkage photos do line up with others peoples photos ..... Are they the same linkages for the same car? 2 door, 4 door, wheel base, overdrive.... Your linkage does not look anything like the linkage for my truck. ..... Why should they ..... same time different model cars would be different. Maybe disconnect all linkage, then with vehicle properly supported .... verify you can get all gears working from shifting it manually under the car. It is possible someone changed the linkage rods in the past, trying to fix a problem then created another? ..... You do not have correct rod to work with your car? My truck for example, the adjusting nuts on the rod worked loose. Now the rod moves on the shift lever, damaging the threads for the shift rod making it impossible to do a proper adjustment. My goal is to remove it & then run a tap down the threads to correct the problem. Just plausible something like this happened to your car, instead of fixing what they had, they installed a used rod that does not work?

I guess I have a bit of a problem with television today .... nothing on it is worth watching .... imho. When @keithb7 made this post, got me to searching for other videos that I like to watch. I spent so much time watching them I never shared them While I love Highway patrol, I tend to look for movies 1 hour long or more. 1930's, 40's, 50's ..... 60's things started getting weird but I do selectively watch 60's or newer. I'm just a true weirdo .... my house was built in 1948, my truck is 1949 ... daily drivers are 91 & 93 .... I'm just not ready for the 20th Century. And I'm happy This morning I was binge watching John Wayne movies from 30's-40's Ya all have to love Burn Em Up Barnes though .... here's 4 hours of your life you will never get back.

Oh my, I go to the big city once a month .... the next town over that has a Walmart. @Sniper town has 2 walmarts .... Hard to get bigger then that

I can only laugh & suggest you enjoy the ride. I actually have a metal replacement floor pan ..... Sitting on top of the existing floor, it hits in the same place you show. I figure I will need to cut it in more precisely & weld it in. Hard to say whats going on if you have wood floors & hitting in the same place. .... Way out of my league. Yeah if the floor is sitting too high, it will cause the pedals to hit in that location. Look at your photo, if the floor was 1" lower. The legs of the pedals would ride up & over the floor .... as is they hit the floor.

Just a guess, I'm thinking if everything lines up ... master cylinder, push rod, pedal .... you are fine. All should be in a straight line. You simply may have a mis matched toe board ...or not .... no pics yet ... Possible you may have a Ferd toe board This all can be fixed with a grinder if your pedals function correctly.

Just thinking you can mix & match parts from different year trucks if they are the same. On the later B series, 48-50 there is a difference where the gas pedal sits. 2 balls attached to the floor. Some trucks have them on the lower toe board .... some put them on the transmission cover. Also 1950 was first year of column shift so the toe board is different for floor linkage. That also changes the shape and size of the toe board & trans cover .... Your 1947, they made that cab style many years .... very possible you have a toe board from a different year and you may need to modify it to work for you.

I remember my clutch pedal rubbed on the side of the toe board before I started working on the truck. Not anywhere else. If yours are hitting the toe boards .... There are locating holes on the cab floor that the toe boards line up with and bolt into place. Mine really have no adjustment. The pedals should be centered into the cutouts. If they are not, I wonder why .... maybe they are replacements from a different truck? Might be possible to oblong or slot the holes in the toe board so you can adjust them slightly side to side. I dunno, pictures would help.