Los_Control

cars are for girls

Waned to park this link here, so can easily find it on my laptop in the garage. rustyhope is on the way, and imagine it has some pretty good instructions with it. No idea what parts to buy yet, but can get started on the mounting plate. Napa just called and engine gaskets came in, can get back to work on the engine in molly and wake her up.

Talked with rustyhope this morning, got the front brakes sorted / ordered. Looking at ordering the fuel tank and going to call and ask about the sending unit. http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm I am switching to 12 volt negative ground at this point, sending units go by ohms and they have several choices, hoping they can sort it for me to work with the original gauge. Would love any feedback if someone knows. I need to look up and order a set of rubber gaskets for the windows ... thinking DCM off the top of my head. I need a 12 volt windshield wiper motor ..... DCM Need to sort the rear end. Going to call today and see what local wrecking yards have available in 3.73 ratio. I know jeep or explorer works well. Will need to build the flatbed, have all the material sitting here ... need a few brackets and screws I think May 1rst is a arbitrary number, but what am shooting for .... 30 days and going to drive this ol girl to Texas. Or call a shipping company and have her shipped. Would be nice if could at least start it and drive it on a trailer and use brakes to stop it.

It did have a new looking fuel pump on it, but it is now on my other motor in the truck and it works. Motor is so clean, and has the rebuild tag on it, it is very low miles ... so 2 fuel pump springs in a few thousand miles would be interesting. Would mean the 3rd fuel pump since rebuilt. But I think that may be exactly what they are, I just cant explain why. Suppose I could make up a story about the 90 over pistons and a cam so huge it broke fuel pumps

Thanks for helping with that, I was curious how they did regulate the pressure. And I went back to the manual, all it says is to pull it and inspect clean re-install. ... NO PICTURES! Here is a better photo that shows the relief spring for the engine, and the 2 springs I found in the pan.

agreed, but I do not see in the motors manual that the flathead six oil pump has relief springs? I see the hemi, 383 and slant 6 all have relief springs that look just like those, and only one per pump. but the flathead has no relief spring. So I am guessing they were dropped into the pan by tricksters, and not from this engine. Or am I missing something and looking at the wrong motors manual? The oldest manual I have is 1955, the motor is a 1952, I am assuming the oil pumps are the same?

Curious on the master cylinder, are you using disk up front, drum in rear with that year master cylinder? I need to order one this week myself.

worked on the cylinders and honed them using wd40 then switched to penetrating oil. Pulled the pan and it is clean, the motor is clean, guessing the motor has a few miles on it, but less then 2k miles? Going to hit the valve seats with a brass brush, compressed air and oil, put the motor back together. The cork gaskets on the valve covers and pan are in perfect shape and can just put them back on. I feel confident that I have a good spare used motor here. Curious as to who stamps the pistons, I would think the piston manufacturer stamps the pistons but I dunno. The rebuild tag states Pacific national auto parts Tacoma WA bore .60 rods .10 mains .10 The pistons are clearly marked 90 Just one of those things that makes you scratch your head. Anyone recognize the springs? They were in the bottom of the oil pan. My first thought was oil pump, but exploded view in motors manual does not show them. The motor sitting with no oil fill tube, it is possible some kids dropped them in there. I cant think of anyplace from this engine they would come from. All that being said, going to pull the pan on molly and clean it, put her back together and if she does not work out, swap in this one. Got to get back to Texas soon .... grass is growing in on me !!!

can I jump in here too, I am also looking for head bolts, I here that small block chevy will work, makes me wonder about rod bolts. Am cleaning one up so can tear it down right now, maybe in a hour can pull a rod bolt and give the specs.

that motor really cleaned up good, valves were pretty easy to unstick and rotate the engine and seems to be fine. My thoughts were to just use a small block of wood with no hammer, just tap tap tap on top of the pistons. try to encourage the penetrating oil into the ring grooves and vibrate the rings loose ??? I dunno if it would work or not, just looked good on paper. I think this motor will run at this point, napa will not have the engine gasket set until Tues-wed Took me a couple hours and beat this old man up, I got the other engine out of the shed yesterday. It was buried on the back wall. Had to shuffle a 283 and some ford 6 banger out of the way, after I moved the 235/4 speed out of the way. 1/2 way down the isle to the door was a y block with a 3 speed tranny sitting in the way. I had to use pry bars and lift the lil 218 over the tail shaft to get to the door ... it was a job. First time the 218 seen the light of day in 30 years. My first impression, nice candidate to send to the machine shop and rebuilt. Going to spend the day with it and decide. The motor was rebuilt, Not sure why they sold it, maybe they never finished their project? But they took the head off to show it had no miles and could see what you were buying. Then it was put in the shed and forgot about for 30 years. I spent 5 min with it yesterday with a hone on one cylinder, it surprised me how well it cleaned up., pulled a valve cover and it all looked like new .... I have a complete engine gasket set coming Tuesday, need to decide which motor going to use it on now.

might just be me and bad eye sight, looks like that jar is empty, the hose needs to be submerged in brake fluid, or you are just pulling air back in. For the record, I rarely have good luck with this method, I do try it but have better luck with 2 people. One to work the brakes and one to work the wheel cylinders.

my 1949 B1c 3/4 ton used 5 on 5" bolt pattern, while a 1/2 ton is 5 on 4.5" pattern

might get lucky, all in all she got some good looking pistons. She has 4 stuck valves in 3 cylinders. Going to give them a good dose of atf/wd40 mixture and see if they will loosen up. Hoping napa will have a engine gasket set, rockauto has them but that is not today. Any ideas on getting the rings to seat? Tempted to try some straight wd40, then a block of wood and very lightly tap on the pistons, see if cant get them to loosen / free up and seat a little better. Then wash the cylinders with atf to lubricate them. Going to pick up some pb blaster for another project, wondering if that would be to caustic to spray on top of the rings to clean them up, or maybe some brake clean? Any ideas to clean this girl up to get compression back up there?

Seems molly is a trickster and wants to play games, going to pull the head today and play "whack a mole" with the valves. Compression test came up 60 60 30 0 0 0 Assuming the valves are not stuck on the first 3 cylinders, the numbers are terrible, If 60 is all can get from last 3 cylinders, may not start. At that point, I may spend time more wisely on the rebuilt 218 sitting in the shed. I dunno, needs a lot of cleanup and probably have to pull the pistons to do it. Finish this cup of coffee and get going! I am staying over at my uncles place at least until the 5th. Will help getting in some serious molly time. I think in about 3 hours, will have a better picture of the future

compression check would be a great idea. Something I learned over time, spray a little starting fluid in the carb. If it has any spark at all it will try to fire. you have a fuel issue. If it does not change at all with the either, you have a spark issue. I have seen new condensers go bad, get spark at the points but nothing to the plugs.

Being a armchair mechanic does not go over to well on old trucks. I started the oil change today, 40 year old oil is ugly! I took the top off the oil filter canister, spring broke while removing it .... was 1/2" of powder rust sitting on top of the oil filter. Removed the canister from the engine block and put it in the parts washer. Then grabbed another canister off the 52 plymouth and ended up cleaning it up and installing it. Had to grab a copper line from another 218 sitting in the shed, finally got all back together. and put the oil drain plug back in. Was not much oil in the drain pan, took the plug back out and started poking a screwdriver in the drain hole and more started coming out. After cleaning the two oil canisters and looking at the oil sitting in the bottom of them, I know exactly what my oil pan looks like, no doubt in my mind it has to come off to be cleaned. Was going to run a quick compression check on it, get a base line before starting it .... starter solenoid is trashed, I cleaned one up and it seems to be in good shape, and good contact. Need to swap it first thing in the morning and go for day 2 ..... almost a full day just changing oil. Hoping fixing the starter will not be another full day project. Man, it sure was a great day spending it working on the truck. Loved every minute of it

good chance someone has changed it to 12 volts, pull a tail light bulb and see if it is 12 volt also. I could only assume, if they switched to 12 volt, they also would switch to negative ground.

The problem with my wiring was the cloth falling off where it came through the heater housing. There was a bare spot on the longer power wire also. I used some thread and wrapped the wires to replace the missing cloth, and wrapped it a little thicker then original. Then I got into the wifes nail polish and found some black and red, painted the complete wire. The polish acts like a glue, it holds all the original cloth in place, and is flexible. I can bend the wires around and does not crack or peel. I then wrapped the repaired wires in electrical tape heavily, where it exited the case, I did not have a new rubber grommet for it .... not perfect but will last as long as the motor does. I just did this while watching tv and being bored, no real time involved. I did pull apart the motor and lube the bushings and clean it, looked at the brushes. When finished putting the heater back together, I just connected it to the wifes 12 volt battery in her car to see if it would spin up, it went really fast You could probably run it for some months or years on 12 volt, but it will wear out much faster ... to check it you can try. My thoughts are, they have plenty of new replacement motors with a new pig tail connected for pretty cheap. I was unsure if I would stay 6 volt or switch to 12 at the time, I just repaired what I had for the time being.

yes good advice, have been adding oil and turning it for last year and a half. Last time I left the plugs in and turned it with the starter, just never gave it gas and spark yet.

I have been searching the last couple hours on other sites to see if anyone else has done this .... I think you are right. My biggest fear is it loosens it up in big chunks and clogs the screen while it is running. Yet I will have to start it up and verify its condition before spending to much effort on it, I will just change the oil. Next is buying the battery today. Kicking it around, decided to get a 12 volt and swap it over now. I need a tach, want a radio and gps. Pretty sure all the bulbs, generator/voltage reg are ready to be changed anyways, after 40 years.

Ok, time to kick er in gear! We bought the house above, really worked out well and happy with the purchase. We stayed in it for a week and have all the utilities changed over to our name, now back in WA, and I need to start Molly up and see what way am going to go. Seriously thinking of hiring a transporter at this time and just ship her over. I never tried to start her because I had no funds for fresh oil battery etc... We were not going to spend any money until after we bought a house. Trust the plan. Question / discussion on oil. Going to pick up some castrol 10-40 from walmart. What about using diesel fuel to clean out the engine? Drain the 40 year old oil, fill the crank case up to the brim with diesel fuel. pour it in through the oil filter and let it run down and clean all the passages. pull the plugs and turn it over to run it through the oil pump, valvetrain etc... let it soak for 36 hours My goal here is to eliminate sludge sitting in the bottom of the pan. Change the oil twice more after it has a few hours on it before long drives on the highway. Good idea? or will it cause more problems then it fixes?

Sorry I should have posted a link, just ran across it today and when I saw this thread it kinda sparked a idea. https://kpr.craigslist.org/cto/d/rare-1941-dodge/6542997772.html Rare 1941 Dodge pickup. Fully functional, street legal, and runs good. Is titled and registered. Originally was a Command Car in WWII, has command car chassis, now a flatbed. 4x4. Has original in-line 6 motor, 4 speed manual. Glad to answer any questions about the restoration. Makes a great parade car, very fun! Delivery available. $6,400

It has possibilities? A little fabricating for the grill and .....

no picture of mine, but has a magnet from a cabinet door holding it closed. Pretty simple and does not look to hokey .... to me

Are you asking what he tells the wife he spent, or what he actually spends?