Los_Control

I would like to have the larger 230 myself. Seems that plyroadking is correct in the came should be different. Changing the rotating assembly would give you the cubic inches, but not change the way it breathes to handle the new volume. But searching the part numbers may prove they were the same. But having 2 trucks and 4 218's Seems I will be staying with the more common 218. *sigh*

I never thought of ujoints for our truck being a issue, seems there would only be so many choices in cap size, something off the shelf would work. Seems one more reason to do a explorer rear swap and driveline .

One thing I have noticed on these old trucks, the metal work is pretty straight forward. I need to practice my welding skills, no doubt about that. I figure the floor is the perfect place to do it. I have some rust in the rear of my cab, and a bit on the inside floor as well. This includes the passenger side rear mount. And I have a extra cab that is pretty much rust free and would be a excellent donor for floor replacement. The problem is, I cant justify in my head to cut up the other cab, to replace these simple flat metal spots on my 49 cab. Just go to the metal mart and by some sheets and cut out the shapes I need and recreate the rusted metal. Your 1954 may have more swoopy details and it may be more complex, but if you just look at one area at a time and fix that, move on to the next you will get it. Make the floor, then make a cab mount. Unless you plan to show the truck, you may want to perfect the details. You put some undercoating on the bottom, paint and carpet inside, is nobody going to see where you made a boo boo while sharpening your welding skills.

I have a 1949 B1C, looks like 8 leafs to me, or does the very shortest one on the axle count? would be 9. Just not sure from the photo if a leaf or a mounting plate.

I would love such a list, soon I will be pulling the pan on mine, after I start it for the first time, check basic condition. And then clean out all the sludge in the pan. Would be the ideal time to take care of, or prevent a future leak in that area.

welcome to the forums. Is your B1C a flatbed, or does it have a regular bed? Just curious. I also have a B1C that is a factory flatbed, it also has no rear bumper. While a B3B I have, was original a pickup box and has a rear bumper. I plan to make my own bumper, but understand that is not a ideal solution for everyone. Show some pics, we loves pics !!!

I also do not have something to measure. Why not measure yours? Your would be the exact measurements that MM needs to insure that they work on your truck. Like ggdad says, you want the 1rst one up by the cab, the last by the tailgate, and how many cross ribs do you have inbetween? Is there more then 5? Would seem there would be a bolt for each rib, this would give max strength and help keep the new wood from cupping and warping.

I bet one will show up for sale. I have a spare model 63 out of a 1952 truck. In the process of rebuilding the heater in my 1949 now. I wont let the spare heater go until I know mine is working. And the 6 volt motor is in good condition and the core does not leak, so I guess mine is good, still not tested though. I dont know if you would rebuild one yourself, not to difficult. They did have some pieces riveted together. I drilled out the rivets and will replace them with screws when I put it back together. What I did is soak them in a 5 gallon bucket of molasses and water to remove the rust. So I needed to get the pieces down to bucket size. This solution does not remove old paint, only rust. For the guts of the heater, I am fine with that. Remove the rust and rattle can everything black again. For the exterior mine already has to much paint on it, want to media blast it and then do a two tone red/black . These pictures are fun, here is a before pic showing the heater in the truck, truck does not look anything like that now, but fun to see where we started from. And then a picture of the heater in its current state, sitting next to me in the living room. Just took the photo 5 min ago to post this. Glad I have a understanding wife And then there is a photo of the heater in the 1952. I admit it looks bad. Is a good coat of rusty fur on the face of it. I recently removed that heater and stuck it in the shed. It actually is painted brown, and inside it looks much better then the blue model 61 in my 49. Just saying, when you look for one, you may find some that look a bit crusty, but they will clean up and work fine. Just sheet metal and paint. You can find replacement motors for the fans and any good local radiator shop can repair the heater core if needed.

I think smiles per gallon is a more worthy goal

I am sure it needs to be cleaned and lubed, or would not hurt it any. On the back of the speedo where the cable connects, is a port for oiling it. Just a small hole and cotton or fiber filled inside, imagine you put a few drops in it while doing your routine maintenance Would be very difficult to get a oil can under the dash, but sure you can use a can and a tube and make something happen. I would blame the speedo if the needle was binding and jumping around, would be old grease. But a steady consistent 12 mph off, I would look at tire size or speedometer gear is wrong size from a past transmission swap etc...

I was wondering if could remove the cable from the head of the speedo, then drive around the block and see if cable turned. Then thought it may be distracting and dangerous .... nah, everything is safe on the internets

All trickery I tell ya! I first of all, think the car could pull the trailer fine. My uncle use to pull a large travel trailer with a 66 chrysler 300, I still am not convinced on how much trailer is to the right, off of the photo. That window at the very edge, would it have 2 dark tinted windows to match the windows on the left? Could there even be another clear window on the other side to match the set of windows on the left? There is at least some sheet metal between the right edge of that window and the corner. Or it is a corner wrap around window, that would be pretty fancy for the time but doable. The clear light roof feature on the top, really does not need to be symmetrical. Many old trailers had them, was to one side or the other, or in the middle. No rhyme or reason. imho, the trailer would have to end right at the edge of the photo for the clear light feature to be centered, I think there is more trailer not seen. If you lay that old woman down on the ground, she would almost reach the rear axle, say she is 5' tall? is only about 12' to 15' trailer in the photo, could easily be a 20' trailer with all the accessories like fender skirts and tinted windows, clear lights in the roof. etc... But then again, I have been wrong many times.

Think PA has a point. I cant prove it, but almost think the car and trailer are back to back, the tongue and pull truck is on the other end. Typically the front has a large window to look out of. I see parts of more window to the right.

T hats good info, my 49 is indeed a B1C. Also the OP truck is a bit on the large size. My 1/2 ton parts truck only has remnants of a mirror bracket on the passenger side hinge, nothing to look at and see what was originally there.

I thought mine are original, but only because of the way they mount on the hinges. A aftermarket seems would have different mounting options to fit different vehicles. And the difference between mine and the original posters mirrors are the heads. Mine are rectangle where the op is round. I imagine that there would be many after market options available for the heads. So which was original, round or rectangle?

Yes it is there, It is not the same as the 49. I cant think of any reason why I would want to use it. I know the ring is broken, I have seen other old cars with the ring broken in the same place. Makes me think the PO modified them, so they did not hit the horn ring accidentally while turning/driving. Will still be some time (weeks) before have the time to bring it home and dismantle it, will also be ripping and tearing the 51 suburban apart at the same time. We need to get on that one in a short time frame, may as well do the truck at the same time, I will need all the same tools out. The horn rings sure add some bling, I like the simplicity of the 49 wheel without it though myself. I wonder if the 51 suburban is missing a horn ring, or if it came without? . I will contact you dave, as I get it back to start tearing it down.

Thanks Brent! Just a moment of insanity I am sure. We have been snowed in here, I cant even get out to my uncles to work on some projects. Trying to sort in my mind as where to start when I can. I will need to find out more on the title process before stripping the 52, would like to get a title for it. But I have time to work on it, since it is at Grandmas place out of the line of fire. The bronco would just be for parts, and since it is 4x4, is kinda take all or none .... think I want none and it will just go away. We have had another foot of snow since this photo was taken, and not above freezing in weeks.

I cant remember ever having a bad ford solenoid. I have owned many fords over the years, Sure it can and does happen, but is rare as far as I know..

Snow is just about ready to melt away in a few days, time to get back on some projects. One project am working on, helping my uncle get rid of the cruft in his yard, making a county inspector happy, and also my uncles children. I did make a post awhile back about losing this truck that I call flower pot 1952 b1b. As it turns out, the guy never did show up and I now have the truck stored over at Grandma's property until I decide what will do with it. Am leaning to just parting it out at this point. It has no title or paperwork, been sitting for 25 years. It does have a really good rust free cab and doors and complete 218.. I have never filed for a lost title before, not sure what I will be up against. Now there is another bronco II that I need to deal with, I put it on craigs list for free a couple times, no title just come get it. A million people want it but never follow through to pick it up. The story on it, the bronco was living at a apartment complex and the owner moved out, pushed the bronco across the street and abandoned it. The police put a sticker on it, move it in 48 hours or it will be towed, my uncle found out and he picked it up. *sigh* This saved the owner a tow bill, chances are the person bought it, never put it in his name, when it broke down just pushed it across the street. So the person who sold it would get the tow bill. I think if I contacted this person, they would gladly give up the title. We started the bronco and it runs but has a bad main or rod bearing. Knowing that rangers are good candidates for rear ends and transmissions and the bronco is built off the ranger platform .... should I even consider putting the b1b and the bronco together? A 4x4 with a flattie? Or am I just suffering from cabin fever, and need to get the bronco back on craigs list after the snow melts?

Thank you very much for the great write up kevin \o/ I have read another article on this process, and it left me with questions. After reading this article, am ready to dive in ... Awesome and Thanks again.

Maybe Kevin will chime in. I do not know how these new gauges are made, I only assume they are on some sort of assembly line, and a machine is administering a precise amount of fluid that is needed to get the job done,. But not a single drop extra to keep production cost down. Would make sense to me. Once you cut the tube open, you may lose a few drops of residue in the tube and not in the bulb, then the either evaporates so quickly, probably what the ice bath is for, to slow down evaporation. I just need to give it a try and see what happens. Would be my luck, spray a squirt of starting fluid in it, the engine heat and pressure creates a bomb, and blows the head of the gauge off while driving down the road.

Sometimes these low baller's go over board. Like it is a addiction and they just cant help themselves. It is a hazard of craigs list. I once had a high quality turntable from Germany for sale. On ebay they were listed for over $200. I just wanted it to go away, I had no room to store it after moving. I listed it on craigs list for $25, had the original sales receipt from germany, instruction manual, extra needles, a spare belt. First guy that called said he wanted it really bad, had to work for a couple hours and then would stop by after work to pick it up. I said would hold it for him, he called 3 more times that day wondering if I was still holding it. ( A couple others called before I removed the add, I said it was already sold ) He showed up after work and sure enough, he tried to find ways to nit pick it and then offered $15, told him to get his arse off the property and quit wasting my time. Then I have a brother inlaw, he is mentally challenged. 45 years old and never worked a day in his life. Literally there is no place at his fathers home to park another car, . All day long the brother inlaw is on craigs list emailing sellers, "what is your bottom price?" I feel sorry for those people, nothing I can do about it. Have heard him talk about getting a $3k car to $1k and then back out of the deal because he never planned on buying in the first place. Need to be aware that there are those kinda people out there, not breaking any laws but just wasting your time. Be aware when someone tries to lowball you, it just might be for their entertainment. I really do think it falls into a sickness like alcoholics or gamblers .... the thrill of the deal.

Think I would feel better about the operation, maybe use a jar with a lid for the ice bath, drill a hole for the tubing to go through and then duck tape it tight. That way you could turn it over and move it around and work on it, without it falling out of the ice bath. I am thinking that the sleeve will need some work, as it did in the written article. Chances of the new tube with today's measurements being the same? And then the sanding of the ID of the tiny sleeve? I dont think is a wire brush small enough, thinking a drill bit of exact size to reem it out. Then pre tinning the pieces before cutting, would also change the OD of the tubing. Just thinking I might need to do all the cutting and fab work with the tubing in the ice bath. I do not know the chemistry of the either and the ice, I wonder how much working time you have, what the target temp is while having the tubing cut open. I guess the article suggest doing as much as possible before cutting the tube, this create a bit of urgency in my mind, to do it quickly. I wonder if you could give it a shot of either, after you have it in the ice bath and cut the tube? Is more better? I guess the unknown always brings more questions, and experience will bring answers. For the price of a new gauge, is well worth the opportunity to save one.

Ok thanks, have the page bookmarked and was the one I previously read. No clue why I think it is intimidating, suppose I just think I would lose the either and end up with a non working gauge. But I already have a non working gauge, nothing ventured nothing gained. I will give it a try.

Working on the gages of my 1949 B1C, the temp gage is missing the bulb and the engine has a plug in the place of the temp gage. PO simply removed and blocked off the gage. Just curious what others have done to fix this issue? At the moment, just plan to re-install the broken gage, and add a after market under the dash. I currently have the gage cluster removed from the truck, have sanded the chrome trim ring back to the brass plating, and the housing down to bare metal and ready for paint. So I really do not like the idea of disassemble and clean, polish, paint ... and put back together non working. I do have a spare temp gage from a 1952, it has the same problem, am wondering if there might be a stewart warner gage, that could install into the stock gage cluster, maybe use the face from the stock gage and body from a new replacement gage? I have read one article about replacing the tube on the old gage with a tube of a new gage, seems a little intimidating to me. Has anyone tried this and recommend it? For those that may be interested, I like the brass finish and plan to keep it, I figure another day they could be rechromed and no harm done. The speedo and gage cluster in photo is from a 1949, the speaker grill on the right is not brass, appears to be stainless steel, and is out of the 1952. I still have the speaker grill installed on the 1949, I hope it is brass plating like the rest. Although, the wire mesh in the 1952 speaker grill is brass. Go figure.