Los_Control

not saying it is cheap, but the results are important. penofin is $30, sikkens with cetol is $60 https://www.amazon.com/Cetol-SRD-Natural-1-Gallon/dp/B001PICI42

I hate the penofin, just garbage every time I got stuck using it .... and embarrassing. I do like sikkens with cetrol D If you can find that, it works really well in the south. apply it once and 7 years later it can use another coat. While penofin is garbage in 6 months.

I am saying, by ear and feel, the engine seems to run good. By doing the test, I know my valves fail and I need to give them attention. Possibly just a valve adjustment? The engine has been sitting many years and I refuse to open it up until I drive it and see if the rings expand and the valves start seating better. So I am saying, after waking this motor up from a deep sleep, I am pleased with it. But using the highly technical dollar bill test, I am being warned and I need to pay attention to the valves. I will drive the truck and then repeat the test as needed to monitor improvements.

After moving, not a lot of time to get setup but slowly working on it. I am in the process of trimming trees and bushes in the backyard. I have a city dump on the edge of town where I can haul it all for free. This is what I am setting back and when I am at the dump, I usually bring another branch or two home with me ? Here is a photo of my new rocking chair will be sitting on the back porch .... if I see a neighbor pulling out a stump, I will be over looking for free curly twisted roots to make table legs out of. Just need to get the stuff off the ground and drying so will be ready to work with sooner then later. And the dogs will quit dragging it all over the back yard

I am not sure if my truck has the J style nuts in the floor like you show, have to go look .... what I do have on the inner fenders and everywhere else on the body, is the acme style. Most are in good shape, I suspect they were used because they were cheap and easy on the assembly line. I am replacing them with a standard grade 5 nut bolt washers, I will consider it a upgrade. While the j style photo with a nut, I like those and we need something like that on the toe boards.

actually I am too lazy to pull the plugs to insert the camera. I just hang a dollar bill over the end of the exhaust while it is running. In theory, the motor is a air pump and should push the dollar bill out .... period. If the dollar bill gets sucked back and pushed out and back and forth, time to pull the head. I claim my motor runs smooth and plenty of power, it does not pass the dollar bill test, almost ripped the bill in 1/2 As for the camera, such a cool item now that the price is reasonable. I suspect everybody will eventually own one, plumbers, carpenters, mechanics, porn stars .....

I would be concerned if the train had a bar car with comfy stools

I was thinking if you were under the car and it fell, that might kill you.

5'5" 150 pounds, my pilothouse cab is bigger then my first apartment

depends on the O's Sometimes we go O While others we go OO Then some other times we snicker inbetween

Thanks for your valued opinions Bob thanks for letting me ride along, I was just hoping to get a opinion for rebuilding the original while only seeing swap info, thus why I asked My box seems to not have much play sitting in driveway, but one never knows. Once you wake them from a long sleep and get a few miles on them, things will show up.

I have a bandana for daisy, she just a year old puppy and she and her hound dog sissy play so rough, I have to go out in the yard and find her collar. Maybe in another year she settle down and play dress up

bet one of them would look better on my dog then on you

I am kicking around anti theft devices myself. Considering a electric fuel pump, A switch to turn it on, but also a second switch for the ground. Then a 3rd switch for the coil wire to distributor. I would like a 4th switch also but unsure where to connect it. The idea with the switches, not have them all in same up or down position, 1 up 2 down etc, kinda like a combination on a lock. you need to know the key. In todays world, just having a 3 on the tree with a manual choke will stop most thieves. Toss in a floor starter. I suppose anyone that knows these old cars, actually targets one parked on the street, not much you could do to stop them.

My work van had 10 ply tires on it, max pressure was 80 pounds. I typically ran with 40 in the front and 45 in the rear, unless going to haul a load I would pump them up to 70 or so. Max air pressure was explained to me as max load rating. If you have a chain hoist rated max load of 2k pounds, you do not want to go over 2k pounds. But you can use that hoist all day long lifting smaller loads. Same with tire air pressure, Max on the sidewall is what you do not want to exceed, you also do not want to run under inflated. This is excellent advice.

I like the question on this thread, has anyone rebuilt their steering box? are there parts available for our old steering boxes? I know rockauto offers a rebuild kit, or a rebuilt box using your old one for core charge, for not much more on my 91 chevy. So I am curious if anyone knows of a kit available for our old cars, and if someone did rebuild it, is it a difficult job? Or is it something we take to a qualified machine shop and leave it to them?

I like that. Years ago I bought my wife a camaro that had a similar style paint. It was pretty cool how it would change colors depending on the light. It really was closer to a rootbeer brown, then looked like gun metal gray or it actually looked black. Was one of those things the guys at work use to get a kick out of it. During the day as the sun moved across the sky, different lighting it changed colors. I really liked that car when I bought it, factory 6 cylinder with a 3 on the floor trans, never really beat on to hard, had nice interior & custom paint. That car was hit 3 times in 6 months, and none of the others had car insurance. I sold it I have never really wanted a car with "special paint" since.

That is a sharp looking color, I really like that. Just a thought to throw out for color selection. My truck is originally black. I kinda lean to repainting it black for that reason, although I do like black. What worries me is the temperature in summer time, the cab is going to be like a oven in summertime when you want to cruise the most. Therefore I am going with a two tone with a different color on top, will be only slightly less of a oven but every bit counts. Possible in the op's location this is not a big deal. And then like Knuckle says, black shows the flaws and the dirt.

I trust that motor is in good hands. Sad that you get to have all the fun in repairing the damage .... I suspect if I hold my tongue just right, I too will get to have fun. Sometimes we need humor in our lives, that looks bad but with time and effort it will be repaired.

I should not but will share another. Working in Tacoma WA, one of our top tire salesmen got a call, his son (ran a service truck) was down the road and just had a accident. He (father) was the first on the scene, grabbed his son by the legs and pulled him out from under the service truck ... he (son) was decapitated. The goal was to put the tire under the truck, air it up and if it exploded it was contained, the trucks had no cage on them. The tire exploded while he was under the truck to remove it. No clue what type of wheel it was.

I think it is pretty cool, no I would not want it or use it, but if it was there from factory, I would keep it.

snowmen are already under fire ..... maybe if we used yellow snow they would get a pass?

Regular split rims like the military tires came with would be good, am sure any truck stop that fixes tires would change them. Get a set of chrome 19.5 with low profile michelins, you would be driving that truck daily but not cheap. I would check local tire shops and see if they have anything used, you might even find another truck sitting in a field, buy it for the wheels and put yours on it and sell it off again. I had a option , still do, to buy a 52 chevy 2 ton dump bed, rebuilt 235 for $600. I would love to have the truck, was my wifes grandfathers, he built the dump on it .... been sitting for years and needs some work to be roadworthy. Just new tires and use the good wheels it has, would cost over $1000. Tires and wheels for these old trucks are not cheap. I live in town and have no place to park it or a reason to use it. But you see my point, I could buy that truck, take the wheels and sell the rest and get my money back plus change. As far as I know, others can correct me, the bolt pattern on these old trucks within reason, still match the modern bolt patterns of today. You just need to figure out what bolt pattern will interchange with yours, and others can help there. I only know the pickup's bolt patterns.

New to using acid for rust removal, been using it to remove the rust on my body pieces, lot of work but happy with results, I just happened to have some of the acid out and tried it on the switch. I already been working on soaking the switch in oil for 3 days with no results, was about ready to toss it. The rod is slotted on the end, it slides into the carriage and prevents rod from spinning. The hole I drill will be through the bolt for the rod to slide through. 1, I just need to grind the thickness of the bolt head down to washer size, then shape the diameter to fit in the case. 2, The case hole is not round, is flat on 2 sides to prevent bolt from spinning, Grinding the diameter in step one will prevent bolt from spinning, so drill case to round hole. 3, cut the bolt to length, then drill center hole for rod. This should not take to long if I start with the proper threaded bolt to accept the original bezel. If I use the ss bolt in the photo, the thread pitch is wrong, will need to grind down the existing nut to make the new bezel, then polish if it actually works, then it still wont look the same as the rest and will take to much time. ggdad1951 I like your idea better

Thank you very much, I will order a couple bolts up.