Los_Control

Why oh why do I feel so dirty, I suppose it was bound to happen sooner or later. Meet Betty, she not here yet, but made a deal with the guy and will be delivered in the next 2 days ... we see https://austin.craigslist.org/cto/d/1949-dodge-pu/6697203880.html 1949 Dodge Pilot HousePu All Original Running when parked 10 yrs ago When Grandad passed Floorpan Rusty & have NEW ONE Speedo & Guages Good Body straight & rust free BED FLOOR WOOD GONE GLASS ALL THERE STRAIGHT BODY MOTOR FREE Good tailgate REPLACED TIRES & ROLLS easy Clean Title

Not posted for awhile, I sure miss Molly and wish she was here. My goal was to go over in September and pick her up. The 1991 chebby I have the ac is broke, when you get to eastern WA the weather is to hot, just waiting for things to cool down. I bought a Forney 190mp welder last week, was on sale at my local Ace hardware. They trying to clean out display models. I did not get the box and instructions, But a great welder for $600. Not even plugged it in yet, but next month when Molly gets here I will want this tool. This week working on the chevy to get it ready for the trip. I mean it always ran well, I pulled the radiator and flushed it, I cleaned and painted the core support. The water pump had some play in the bearing so I replaced it. New T-stat, heater hoses and rad hoses. Was a issue with temp sensor and wiring, replaced it along with the oil pressure sensor. I had a weird issue with ignition, I also changed the dizzy and coil while in there. Just been spending the last week cleaning and painting and replacing old suspect parts. Going to feel pretty comfortable now, driving the 1800 miles one way to go get Molly .... I still plan new tires, brakes look good and I just had new exhaust installed 2 weeks ago. At this point, kinda thinking I will have to buy a trailer here local and haul it there and then back .... when finished put the trailer up for sale. See how it goes. Going to really suck to send some iron to the scrap yard. Have the 51 suburban over there, I need to get rid of it. I also have my 52 parts truck, I want a few parts off of it, but if it would just disapear before I got there .... that would be pretty cool. Otherwise I will pull a few parts and send it to the recycle yard, same with the suburban Wish could find someone in Eastern WA that would want them.

Think modern replacements have come a long way, no idea what the down time is ... We all have a certain level of pain we will endure before moving forward. I will pray for pain free days for ya thanks for confirming this, when I first saw the trailer back in Feb, we were just driving by and instantly at a glance was sure it was pilothouse era. I have been wrong before though Since my 49 is a B1C, would need to stretch the bed or shorten the frame to use it. Current plans are to simply restore it and use it as a utility trailer, may look pretty good being pulled by molly in the future.. Trailer seems pretty well built, am satisfied with the workmanship. Tongue is short and real pita to back up, will jack knife in a blink of a eye. Suppose I will get use to it.

could always wear a kidney belt for that

Been awhile since posted, been busy with the move .... just imagine everything you own is packed into a dodge caravan, you move into a empty 1200 sq ft house. We needed to buy everything, refrigerator, furniture, bed & dressers, dishes .... first we had to buy a truck to haul the goods home. We are in a small rural town and I love it, to buy a decent truck at a decent price, had to drive 4 hours one way to Dallas. Pulled in at a rest area on the way home, it was dark and would not start again .... left it and drove the 2.5 hours home and then back again 2.5 hours to the rest area in the morning to fix it, Just a loose battery connection and easy fix, but just buying a truck turned into a 2 day adventure I really miss not having molly near by, I worry that 1700 miles separation, can cause giving up on the project and walking away.. Being disabled slows things down for sure, I can do everything, just takes 3 times longer then most and then have to rest for 3 days before starting a new project. Wife and I shrug it off, we say we got the rest of our lives to get er done. So all is going awesome! Bought a old chevy, kept looking for a low mile truck for a decent price, we needed something fast so we could get a fridge and furniture etc... Everybody wanted a million dollars for their truck with 200k+ miles. So I saw this 1991 chevy with 415k miles on the clock for $2k ... 4 hours drive away ... it spoke to me and I knew it was the one. I was told the motor has 50k on it, and runs like it could be true, I know the 5 speed transmission is not a 1991 model, the rear end is tight and quiet ... I think it all has been changed, just a matter of maintenance and keep it up. No issue jumping in it and driving 2k miles to WA today. AC needs fixed, cruise control needs a new cable, exhaust is a typical Texas teenager rig and louder then f**k, it has after market bucket seats and I hate them, like sitting in a go cart. So I have some work before I go over to pick up molly and drag her back on a tow dolly. Just wanted to post and say I am trying to stay focused, got a plan and slowly working towards it. Post a couple pics, garage / work shop ... old garages are to small to hold a car. I got the work bench a long ways, and was the handicap ramp to the front door when we bought the place. Now is time for wiring before I close the walls up. Not much but remember I had nothing and just now rebuilding. The trailer, I tried to talk myself out of it ... guy wanted $200 for it and I just had to drag it home. No idea what year it is, if it had fenders it would be a better clue. I call the chevy, "molly hauler" Sure is a fun truck to drive, 350/5 speed 1/2 ton with tall gears ... think it will be around for a long time to come, looking forward to several long trips out and about the US. Once the exhaust and ac is cured.

Just saying, I had a 1992 dodge shadow engine rebuilt. Machine shop put the rings in upside down. They took care of it.

I have no actual experience with the product. Only bad thing I have heard about it, when it is properly applied ..... seems a pain to come back later and clean a area to weld on. Hint: Have all your welding / frame fab finished, before applying. Of course it can be ground and welded and redone, just more work then paint.

I wonder if it is a issue at all? As long as it shows full when at the top and has enough travel to show empty at the botton, seems like it would work just as well as the original. It may not go all the way to the bottom of the tank in current form, that would mean you have a couple gallons in the tank and gage reads empty ... not bad to have reserve? I would try it as is and play with it, it just may be fine.

Ok the tank and rusty hope kit came in. Sadly the rustyhope kit packaging was ripped open from rough handling of usps, parts seem to be all there and in good shape though. The tank.inc tank looks great. The stuck valves really threw a monkey wrench in the very stupid idea to start it up and drive it 2k miles home. Being physically disabled, pulling the spare engine out of the shed and then dragging the parts truck across town so could work on it, wore me out. Been a week and still recovering. We now have another plan. My father inlaw has a car dolly he wants to get rid of, has not used it in years, needs new tires, fenders, lights. grease the wheel bearings etc .... but it is a decent start and the price is right. Wife and I are on our way back to Texas tomorrow morning. We are both excited to get back to our new home, get it furnished and move in. We will have to purchase some sort of truck to get this done, then in a couple months come back over and pick up molly and drag her back to Texas using the car dolly. Seems like was just getting started, now is back on hold ..... to be continued!

Really looks like a fun project though, well worth the time needed to invest.

Yeah, I dunno .... trying to keep those metals apart in such close proximity, kinda like keeping teenagers apart in same proximity. If needed, ya could always get the cat to burn your truck again to rid it of German worms?

this might also be it, car (52 suburban) has been sitting since 1965, be surprised if the motor was good but maybe. Problem is, need someone to just come drag the car away. I am heading back to Texas in 3 days and no time to do what I need to get done. Will have to come back in a couple months just to get my truck.

wonder what shipping would cost to your location.

I was really surprised when I asked for a top radiator hose for the hoopty while in podunk TX, they did not have the exact fit in stock. So I asked if they had a universal or flexible hose available. Of course not, they would not stoop so low to sell such a inferior part. Seriously, they dismissed me and started helping the guy in line behind me. The 93 dodge caravan hose has just a slight crook in the middle, a straight hose would work on it, I wonder why parts stores no longer carry these.

Just got to love this forum and all the great info on it. I want to park this link here, so I can access it when I order window rubber and needed parts. I got my gas tank yesterday, was so tired from stripping parts off the 52 parts truck, I never opened the package. Tanks.inc claim there is 2 mods to be done for the 1939 - 1947 tank to fit in the 1948 - 1954 pilothouse trucks. 1, cut the crook off in the filler neck and use a longer rubber hose. 2, You need to make a triangle shaped bracket for the rear end of the tank to mount to. They claim the length is different and the pilothouse era changes with the changes in the wheelbase. A 1/2 ton pilothouse the rear of the tank is bolted to the cross member. A 3/4 ton has a longer wheel base and the cross member is moved back farther. My point here is, my 1949 B1C has a factory triangle shaped bracket bolted to the frame for the end of the gas tank. I would just about bet that the larger 2 ton trucks etc have the same bracket, and is what you need to bolt up this tank without fabricating the bracket yourself. SAVE THOSE BRACKETS! Will post pics later, my phone and pc are not wanting to communicate right now, just to tired to mess with it.

valves are not really cooperating with me. Been lubing the crap out of them with penetrating oil from the top and also the side covers are removed. Spin the motor over and 3 valves stay open, lube them, tap them down with a plastic hammer and spin it again and repeat. I can feel they are getting more free by the ease of tapping them down ... just gummed up. Soaked them good and let them sit yesterday, while I went over and got my 1952 parts truck from my Grandmothers property. Maybe they will free up today, been raining and do not want to leave the head off to long. Ordered the fuel tank and is scheduled to be delivered today, ordered the rustyhope brakes same day but do not have a tracking number on them. So maybe today or tomorrow. Good times!

Maybe it is just me, the older T-stat housing with bypass is like a piece of art. I have mine sitting here with the original monster brass T-stat .... pretty

I actually like the look of brass. My gauge bezels are made from brass and I removed the chrome. I think black dash and brass gauges will be sweet. Although it is still a project and not on the road yet, I think maintaining the brass may be a ongoing chore. Already they have become quite dull. Now polishing brass bezels may take a few extra minutes, polishing a brass grill exposed to the weather will be a bigger job. But it may be worth it to you. I will be trying some different waxes to see if something will maintain the shine longer.

cars are for girls

Waned to park this link here, so can easily find it on my laptop in the garage. rustyhope is on the way, and imagine it has some pretty good instructions with it. No idea what parts to buy yet, but can get started on the mounting plate. Napa just called and engine gaskets came in, can get back to work on the engine in molly and wake her up.

Talked with rustyhope this morning, got the front brakes sorted / ordered. Looking at ordering the fuel tank and going to call and ask about the sending unit. http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm I am switching to 12 volt negative ground at this point, sending units go by ohms and they have several choices, hoping they can sort it for me to work with the original gauge. Would love any feedback if someone knows. I need to look up and order a set of rubber gaskets for the windows ... thinking DCM off the top of my head. I need a 12 volt windshield wiper motor ..... DCM Need to sort the rear end. Going to call today and see what local wrecking yards have available in 3.73 ratio. I know jeep or explorer works well. Will need to build the flatbed, have all the material sitting here ... need a few brackets and screws I think May 1rst is a arbitrary number, but what am shooting for .... 30 days and going to drive this ol girl to Texas. Or call a shipping company and have her shipped. Would be nice if could at least start it and drive it on a trailer and use brakes to stop it.

It did have a new looking fuel pump on it, but it is now on my other motor in the truck and it works. Motor is so clean, and has the rebuild tag on it, it is very low miles ... so 2 fuel pump springs in a few thousand miles would be interesting. Would mean the 3rd fuel pump since rebuilt. But I think that may be exactly what they are, I just cant explain why. Suppose I could make up a story about the 90 over pistons and a cam so huge it broke fuel pumps

Thanks for helping with that, I was curious how they did regulate the pressure. And I went back to the manual, all it says is to pull it and inspect clean re-install. ... NO PICTURES! Here is a better photo that shows the relief spring for the engine, and the 2 springs I found in the pan.

agreed, but I do not see in the motors manual that the flathead six oil pump has relief springs? I see the hemi, 383 and slant 6 all have relief springs that look just like those, and only one per pump. but the flathead has no relief spring. So I am guessing they were dropped into the pan by tricksters, and not from this engine. Or am I missing something and looking at the wrong motors manual? The oldest manual I have is 1955, the motor is a 1952, I am assuming the oil pumps are the same?

Curious on the master cylinder, are you using disk up front, drum in rear with that year master cylinder? I need to order one this week myself.