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BHondle'40

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About BHondle'40

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Washington
  • My Project Cars
    1940 Plymouth P9 Coupe

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Washington
  • Occupation
    Tax, Legal

Converted

  • Location
    Spokane, WA
  • Interests
    Vehicles

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  1. Great explanation, thanks again! Bruce
  2. Ahhhh, your pictures were great, thank you! I purchased the clamp-on type of dial indicator because I did not understand how the magnetic portion would be attached to the backing plate. Dummy me never considered the way you have shown it in your pictures, thanks! But I do have one question about the pictures. How is it that the dial is registering at about .005" when you are not yanking on it? Unless that particular type of gauge stops the needle at the maximum reached "out" point automatically, something like a stopwatch? So, then, I was correct in concluding that the distanc
  3. Thank you once again for your reply, Dodgeb4ya! I was eagerly awaiting it, and you did not disappoint. 🙂 Thanks for telling me that when checking the end play for these axles that the indicator would normally be attached to the backing plate. I attempted to do that, but after several of frustrating hours (no kidding) I gave up and came up with a new idea. The indicator I purchased is the clamp-on style. But the telescoping arm that attached to the clamp on one end and the indicator on the other end was impossible for me to properly align. But since the rear axle is on jack st
  4. I apologize that one picture got included twice in my previous post. Bruce
  5. I once again express my appreciation to all of you. I was able to work on the axle end-play today. I purchased a dial indicator and now fully understand the need for that precision instrument in this matter. In fact, I now see that it cannot be properly done without it. But, I never really could figure out the proper way to adjust the goose neck, so I ended up attaching it to a jack stand and then moving the jack stand closer until the tip of the indicator came in contact with the axle, and then I adjusted the face of the indicator to zero. Attached as the first picture is how I set it u
  6. Thank you all for your courteous responses, and a special THANK YOU to Dodgeb4ya. I truly appreciate your patience with me and your perseverance in writing your detailed instructions in this matter. 🙂 I have used an NOS inner seal on the driver's side, and a NAPA interchange seal on the passenger side. Neither seal is wider than factory specifications and both have been driven fully into to the axle housing to the machined housing stop depth. I have installed the axles and races/cups and have driven them to within a 1/16" of being flush with the end of the axle housing (i
  7. Gentlemen, please permit me to ask an additional question on this thread that was started in 2019 by Mr. Duffield, rather than starting an additional thread. I apologize if that would be more appropriate. In any event, I believe that I have read just about every thread with regard to extracting and replacing the inner oil seals to the axles in my stock 1940 Plymouth P-9. The bearings for each axle looked good and the axle shafts appeared to be in good shape as well (no scoring to my observation, but there was some scuffing that was smoothed out with steel wool). I replaced the driver's sid
  8. Thank you Robert, for the picture of your '38 Plymouth Coupe, which was quite interesting, and functional, I might add. So there appears to be one solid drop-down cover for the entire space, right? Does the cover have some kind of fasteners at the top to keep it closed, and is it hinged on the bottom? Bruce
  9. Brian, I VERY MUCH THANK YOU for posting pictures of your '39 Dodge access door area. My '40 Plymouth is identical. And your pictures solved the mystery for me (with regard to the material on the left-hand side of the picture that I had initially posted in this matter). The material that is hanging-down in my picture is material that get wrapped-around the left edge of the frame for the access door (i.e., the material covers the metal against which the access door closes) in order to provide a uniform appearance. So the material that I have shown in my initial posting must get glued (presu
  10. Say "brian b", would you be so kind as to post a picture of the rear seat area of your '39 Dodge for me? If that would be inconvenient for you then I would certainly understand. I just have never seen an actual "original" view of the access door area, and am wondering how it looks as it is attached to the bottom of the horizontal "top frame" of the package tray. Bruce
  11. Thank you "brian b" for your reply. It is totally logical that my 1940 Plymouth would follow the same procedure as was found in your 1939 Dodge. It is totally reasonable that there would not be any tarp over the access door, and the existence of what appears to be the remnants of a tarp on my vehicle (as shown in the last picture of my previous post) is simply going to have to remain a mystery to me. 😉 Thanks again to everyone who responded in this matter. Bruce Hondle
  12. Thank you "Plymouthy Adams" for your reply. And, I am sorry it was difficult to discern the issue by the picture I attached. I had quite a time reducing it below the 3 MB limit for uploading pictures, so I had to crop it more than I would have preferred. But, yes, there is the a set of drill holes for the hinges behind the passenger seat. I have the original locking access door (and key) and am in the process of repairing it at this time. Like your '41 D19, the access door on my '40 P9 is hinged at the bottom of the door and opens inward toward the passenger seat. The hinges are hidden w
  13. Hello All! I have reviewed the posts in answer to a question some years ago about the access door on the 1940 P9 Roadking coupe. I was hopeful that someone would be so kind as to answer a question for me. I have searched the internet and have not been able to get an answer to whether or not the access door on the passenger side of the 1940 P9 had a "tarp-like" cover over it, like the one that covers the spare tire behind the driver's seat. The passenger side of my vehicle appears to have the remnants of was a tarp-like cover over the access door behind the passenger's
  14. I appreciated you sharing your photo journey with regard to your '41 Coupe. I am in the process of restoring a '40 Coupe (P-9) as a stock driver after having been apart in the garage (mine and others) since about 1965 or so. I have been informed that the trunk springs for the '41 Coupe will bolt right up to the '40 Coupe and turn the '40 Coupe's trunk lid into one that is a spring-assisted lift like what was started with the '41 trunk lid. I was wondering whether you might have some extra trunk lid springs for your '41 that you won't be using on your project. I look forward to seeing
  15. I apologize for taking so long to respond to this thread. First, in answer to "JD Luxury Liner", the 1941 steering column grommet (as I refer to it, anyway) is on a previous post to this board under the topic "1940 Steering Column Mask." Second, for those individuals who might be in need of the 1940 steering column grommet, Gary Goers has an on-line catalog (PDF) and you will find the 1940 steering column grommet in his catalog as Part #249 (located on page of his catalog #10, which you will find on his website, referenced below). He can mix the material for the mold in differe
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