Los_Control

My first thought looking at the bumper, looked like it was a front bumper that was installed in the rear. I do not know what the factory rear bumper is suppose to look like on your trucks. I wonder if rear bumpers were also a option to order, like the heater or radio. And who installed them if they were.

My comment was geared towards, re-purposing inner tubes for cab seals ? I wonder if one could simply buy the seal by the foot, make your own. Then we have another learning curve and would be a lot of time involved. When I use to retread truck tires as a kid, worked a lot with hot and cold vulcanizing of rubber. Think about buffing and gluing in a tire patch to join 2 pieces of rubber. Cut the seal to length and then buff the ends and glue them together to make it a one piece seal. May actually get a better fit then some of the cheaper seal suppliers ..... I dunno, not at that stage yet but something to think about.

GO GO GO! sure appreciate your enthusiasm, down to 50F today, am working in the house

Here I am choking on DCM price, wondering how much inner tubes cost now days

I know a guy that used a beer can to make a shim for a worn crank journal .... let me rephrase, had new bearings, but the old bearing wore the crank and now new bearing needed a shim. Yeah we all know what it really needed. Think long greasy haired biker with a ol rat harley that got ran out of California for impersonating/telling people, he was a Hells Angels. The ol boy needed that truck to run now! Sure hope that truck got saved, was a nice rust free tri five with factory 2 speed automatic, only one I have seen.

Vote Q, is first time I voted in over 20 years, if not for Q I would not have bothered.

I do not want to get political, I am better off talking about space force .... I voted last Tuesday and was disappointed my wife was not ready to go on Monday. Yes I voted last week as soon as I could, this is the most important opportunity in our life time.

last spring when the handle on my old wheel barrow finally broke, I made new handles and painted it the color I thought I wanted my truck to be. red with cream wheels and black fenders/running boards .... I also like the color of the posters truck, pretty close what I have been dreaming about, torn between painting the bed sides black or red though.

Welcome to the forums , that is a nice looking truck. I wish you luck with any route you decide to go. What I am doing on my truck, first get it working as it came from the factory, just fix and clean to get everything in operational condition. Then drive it, and as time goes by I will decide what I want to upgrade. You take a ol stock pilothouse truck down the road at 50 mph, it has pucker factor. I would probably upgrade the brakes first, then the rear axle to highway friendly gears, maybe replace the 60 year old shocks, then consider steering. All depends on what you want. Do you want a old truck to drive, or do you want a modern car that looks like a old truck.

you may need to measure the stroke, the link that DJ shared talks about measuring the stroke and would help you.

here ya go http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/otherengines.php

Sadly the 216 splash oil system chebbie would not last to the end of the scene. They chose the car that was capable of getting the job did.

I may have missed it, just did not see the option discussed in this thread. May be that I run in the wrong crowd, I just never had a 230. My 1949 B1C would have come with a 230, but has a 1937 218 installed. I was given a 52 plymouth suburban, factory 218 installed. I bought a rebuilt 52 plymouth 218 engine, still sitting in the shop. I bought a 49 B1B, it has the original engine installed and I thought I finally got my first 230, nope it is a 1950 218 I wish you luck in your search.

Just throwing it out there, I wonder how much difference between the 218 and the 230 engines? From what I have read, seems it is the crank and rods, block is the same. So It should be possible to use the 218 crank with 218 rods, if you run across that animal in your search. Seems to me there are more 218 available then the 230. Also think I read something about the 230 crank having more bolt options for the flywheel, which may or may not affect you with your application. Myself I would rather have the 230, but if you ran across a decent 218 you could use it for your fresh 230 block. Usually you hear it the other way around, someone putting 230 crank and rods into a 218 looking for more performance. I wonder how much difference there really is between the 2?

This could be, I have #1 at the 7:00 o'clock position, I need to pull the plug on the #6 cylinder and really dissect the timing. I rocked the crank back and forth with the fan blade, just watching how much play is in the timing chain. I admit there is some play, but not enough to jump out and say I need a new chain. Unless something was assembled incorrectly .... of course I never payed attention when I pulled the wires off the cap. I thought that was worth checking after you mentioned it, so the only time I turned the truck over today, double check the rotation, it is clockwise and how I wired it. What I did do today, and pleased with results. I have ran into a issue with paint. I need to grind off the rust to bare metal, yet all I have been able to do so far is polish the rust. Tried my random orbital sander with 80 grit, then got brave and tried the grinder with a flap disk, just polished the existing rust and not remove it. Today I got the murriatic acid out and it did good, it is nasty stuff, do not try this at home .... take it to a buddies house and do it there. You have to be well ventilated. But with a couple hours time, I got 90% of the body rust off. I need to spend more time and get it better, but now I can actually use my sander and remove the paint to metal. I have been searching for sandblasters in my area, have not found anyone within a hours drive one way yet, still looking, but now I can still move forward with what I have. 3 pics, when I was finished with the acid, I hosed it off to remove it, I just had to much rust to wipe it off. The front fender looked just like the bed. Then I did a second light coat of acid on the front fender, and used a clean rag to wipe and dry it off. This should last until I am ready to sand, prime and paint. Tomorrow is another day and will get more of it finished. I never even turned the key on and try to start the truck today.

BWAAHAAHAA! thanks for the laugh

I gave up today and ordered a rebuilt carb from rockauto, kinda disappointing but tired of guessing. I think this carb should work as is, it is clean as a whistle inside, accelerator pump is giving a good squirt. I measured the float and it seemed correct, I went and lowered it some anyways. Still it acts as if getting no fire and does not try to start. I thought maybe it was 180 out and moved the distributor, then it started popping through the carburetor and knew it was correct in the first place, moved it back. I laid out all the plugs on top of the head connected, turned her over and get a nice blue spark from each plug. I had added some mm oil to the cylinders and the bad cylinder that was 60 psi is now almost 75 psi, others came up also, plenty of compression to run,and I know it did run before messing with the carb. I swapped out the new "wet" champions yesterday with dry acdelco, no difference, I do not think putting the new carb on it right now will make a difference, but will put my mind at ease and start looking at other areas. Kinda thinking maybe sorta, it is so flooded from when the carb was stuck wide open, it just needs to sit and dry out for awhile? There is still some gas sitting in the intake, I have mopped it with a rag and then it shows back up, think pulling the carb and the plugs and let it sit open to dry out is only choice at this point. Next Wed the new carb will be here and then try it again. Going to go out and try one more thing, One other thing I added when I rebuilt the carb, a solid vacuum line to replace the old cut and spliced line that was on it. May be possible that it is not allowing me to move the distributor enough to get it to fire, although I looked at it before I removed the distributor and think it is really close now as it was then. Grasping at straws .... maybe it sitting overnight has dried up enough and will fire today .. who knows what the mopar Gods are thinking today

All good tips so far, the 40 cubic foot bottle is $185 at airgas, pretty cheap to refill and they just exchange your bottle with one of theirs. A 80 cubic ft bottle is almost $400, I wont be welding much and suspect I will go with the 40 cubic ft. Sounds like a better weld can be had by using gas on sheet metal. With my welder, trying to weld thicker metal using fluxcore, The heat option maxes out at 100. It is a 190 welder, but with fluxcore it moderates itself to 100, simply cant get enough heat to get good penetration on thicker metal. While using gas and mig wire I can turn it up and get more heat. Still learning and think this is correct .... I have been wrong before

Just throwing out there on my off topic chevy, I am changing the interior color from red to Gray, I have chosen 2 colors of gray and I use a semi gloss black for trim, so 3 colors to make up the interior. I see no issue with me on 2 colors.

Just curious about mig welding. I see some limitations trying to use flux core and heavier metal. Wondering if all think that going mig with shielded gas is worth the xtra cost. I drove 30 miles one way today to buy a bottle of gas, that place said they would only rent me a bottle. If I bought a bottle they would not refill it. I went back home and called airgas in another town 30 miles away, $185 for the bottle and they exchange bottles when you want to refill ... I liked this. Then I wonder, is using gas with mig welding really worth it? Or just use fluxcore with no gas and save the trouble.

I like it, would like to hear more about what material you chose and how you fabbed it up. Something I will also need to do in the future and like to see other options.

Last year I rebuilt a holley 2barrel on my uncles 70 something dodge pickup. It was filled & plugged with grey goo. I really think it was from old gas. Seems like the last few years they made some of the gas restrictions tighter, now the gas is less stable and I think the goo is a by product. If it is the same goo I saw, it is not from a tank liner or anything else, simply old gas that technically is not old enough to be called old yet. As I remember, it was almost the consistency of oil and water, just real sticky, and the color of gray jb weld. Real ugly stuff, never seen it before.

so here is a photo of what my original gasket looks like, I did not make this it was on the carb. And if I needed to make another one, I have this handy little package of gasket material, is a variety of different thickness, cork and rubber. I bought it at local parts store.

Miller is a great welder they say. I bought my first welder a few months ago. Forney and I hear they are ok also, It was a floor display and got it for about 1/2 price so I jumped at it. Now I just need to learn how to use it. But diving head first and learning. Thanks again for the gauges Radar, they are perfect drop in replacement for the 48, 49, 50 models, even the chrome bezel is the same, exact same gauge all around. toss in a photo of my existing gauges .... they really suck Thanks again!

no idea what the hole is for, newer carbs do not have the holes, or at least mine does not.