plymjim
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Everything posted by plymjim
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No s**w here yet but---. Look at the date on this pic. These cars were just beaters then. Put on the chains and get out there!
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https://donsautoparts.com/door-hardware/catref/door-hardware/ref/bo1494/1935-37-chrysler-desoto-dodge-plymouth-door-latch-spring Try the site shown above. Looks like door hardware is their specialty and they ship over seas. I have not dealt with them myself.
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Wondering what seats work in a 41 Plymouth coupe
plymjim replied to 41plymcoupe's topic in P15-D24 Forum
OK, 41Plymcoupe, here are the measurements, as promised. These from a 48 Plym club coupe (P15). All are center to center to the holes shown & are as close as I could get them with the seat frame in the car. Apologies for the quality of the drawing. If you can't read it pm me. Is the car in your profile your '41? Nice! Real nice!
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Wondering what seats work in a 41 Plymouth coupe
plymjim replied to 41plymcoupe's topic in P15-D24 Forum
42- 48 business coupe, club coupe, & 2 door sedan all had split front seats like in your picture. The mounts are probably the same as your car. If someone on this site doesn't confirm this I'll measure my 48 for you tomorrow. (It's parked at our daughter's house) -
No sealant was used when these cars were built but I use a small amount of clear silicone between body & rubber. Just my opinion, mind you. I would also always put the meeting point at the bottom & put a dab of silicone on the meeting ends. Potential point for a leak, you would want it as far from the top of your car as possible.
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As I recall, back in the early '60's, red wheels were for guys (like me) who couldn't afford a set of Lancer or Fiesta hub caps. All you had to do was convince your self they were cool and bingo! they were. They still put a smile on my face.
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Go to the truck forum. Probably more help for you there. You've pulled into the car side.
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Lift out the seat cushion. Bolts for seat frame should be easily accessible then. The bolts they're attached to are "nut plates". hit them with some CRC or WD40. You don't want to twist them off. Good luck.
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Welcome.
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Love it! Oh man, them scallops! Welcome aboard the forum.
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Keith, this is an opportunity that will probably only come once in a lifetime. The car in your photo looks like a candidate for an AACA HPOF award as it sits (less the 49 PLym. rear bumper).
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How about a Chrysler Airflow or a '48 Tucker for breakout designs?
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Looking for tailight reflectors and gaskets
plymjim replied to Bern Pearson's topic in P15-D24 Forum
The little license plate reflectors are about the same size. available at J&P cycle,& probably most auto parts stores. A little cutting &fitting perhaps. -
These came from an old Almquist Engineering catalog. Thought y'all might enjoy the nostalgia (make that prices). If you have any luck placing an order for one of those Offy 2 carb manifolds let me know, ok?
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1946-1948 Dodge to Plym brake light interchange?
plymjim replied to ebruns1's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Here;s some info to start with. The mounting bolts for the Plymouth lights are 2 & 13/16" across horizontally, 3 & 1/16" vertically. Can't address whether they would mount flat on the body though. -
Sweet job! Makes me want to take the sawzall to my '48.
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Truck front mount. Not sure of year but this is what yours should resemble. Small piece at the top is the rubber mount just below the water pump.
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Engine Sputter & System Charging; Engine runs fine & no charge.
plymjim replied to Noah's topic in P15-D24 Forum
One wire from starter solenoid to ammeter. Three wires from other post of ammeter to headlight switch, ignition switch, & bat. post of regulator. Per wiring diagram from Plym. manual. (Should be same as Dodge.) Diagram is posted somewhere on this forum. Sorry I'm not presently able to re-post it for you. And as Keithb7 said may be more than one issue. Regarding the sputter, check your condenser & coil. Good luck -
Pretty sure the glass jug is a windshield washer reservoir. Nice looking car. Best of luck with it.
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Just read an article in the May/June issue of The Antique Motorcycle club magazine on how to do your own nickle plating. The process looked pretty simple & does not require electricity. I have no personal experience with it but it may save you some $$ if you use the vendor Pet suggested. There is a web site www.caswellplating.com for more info. Good luck!
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Check the pigtail wire inside the distributor (as tooljunkie said.) This tiny wire flexes & the insulation frequently wears off.
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Nope, back then people were usually smart enough to not put themselves in the position of becoming "train wheel oil". And they didn't even have to have "safe places". There was a train track in Washington, D C that ran up the middle of Water Street in Georgetown. If you were on that street you could feel that thing coming a couple of blocks away.And you got out of the way!
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May be over simplifying things but clean battery posts & cable ends. Also, cables may very well be corroded inside the insulation. I have had them look like new but completely shot within.
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Check J&P cycle parts for saddle bag reflectors. Don't know if they are the right size but it's somewhere to start. Good luck.
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The little round doobies? I think this is what he means but sorry, can't provide a source. These came from Speedway but had to buy whole light & NOT exact repro (led).
