plymjim
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Everything posted by plymjim
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So when you shave the deck lid on your Plymouth what do you do with the brake light lens? Here's the stained glass window our daughter made with mine. Reuse, repurpose, whatever. Just never throw parts away!
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Just found a place on the web: autopartsobsolete.com. They seem to have a lot of MOPAR stuff, new old stock. Ordered from them for the first time but have not yet received my order. Don't know if they have axles but check them out if you like. Good luck
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Rear wheel cylinder leaking on my '38 Dodge D-8. Ordered new kits from Rock Auto and they look too small. Like to know I have the right parts in my hands before I pull the old ones out. Can anyone tell me the inside diameters (plural) of the rear cylinders? Thanks in advance for any replies.
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Be sure the rubber vacuum hose is not dried out & cracked. That's a pretty common source of a leak. I drive a closed car which has no booster. The booster is probably only for your top vacuum cylinders. Am I right, convert guys?
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Went to an event at the local Shriner's club recently. This thing was circling the grounds. Only info available from one of their guys was that they've had it since 1970. Gas engine, sounded like a 6 cyl. but not able to peek under the hood. Interesting piece of equipment. Anybody have any idea if it's really a Plymouth??
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It's an aluminum screen similar to the square one on the right side. It has little tabs that fold out to hold it in the bell housing. It's probably still in the bottom of the hot tank.
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While you've got it apart be sure you address everything else in there too, (wrist pins, rod & main bearings). If you take the piston/rod assemblies to your machinist he should be able to dress everything up for you. That being said, don't know if any shop will still come out (house call) like in the old days & mic & hone everything for you. Had this done more than once "back in the day". I believe that's what Plymouthy referred to as a short overhaul. Hope you're back on the road soon.
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Possible. You have no idea what the poor car's been through before you got it. You are sure you are hooked up as pos. ground? Seems you have more than one electeical issue. Hey, call me up You're obviously on line now. 772 783 6977
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Make sure, like Frank says, everything is grounded properly. Engine, frame & body should all be strapped together. Next check your battery cables. Sometimes they corrode inside the insulation but may still look ok. Sounds like you may also have an issue with your generator f you're getting a reading in the neg. range on your ammeter.
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Before doing any filing or permanent alterations to your parts why not leave the pins out temporarily so the shoes will compress completely against the wheel cyls. then try fitting the drums PART WAY over the shoes. Like Plymouthy says, your issue may be with the adjustable fitting at the bottom of the shoes. I think there is a MOPAR specific tool for making adjustments there. Am I right, folks?
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Found this for sale in Barefoot Bay, Fla. Owner's name is Helen, phone 772 559 6342. She's asking $5800 or offer. Real solid floors, straight body, very little rust. Somebody please save this thing! I'll try to attach a picture or two if site allows it. Could only attach one pic. Sorry.
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May be an over simplification but check your distributor. No oil on the little cam lube felt maybe? Can't tell from your sound attachment how loud it actually is.
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The Great Frame, Sub Frame, IFS Stock, Truck I Beam Debate Thread
plymjim replied to 55 Fargo's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Many years ago I swapped a Dodge hemi into a '48 Plym. Notched & reboxed the frame to move the stock steering box out of the way, got a set of '48 taxi cab springs to bring the ride height back up off the floor & it rode & steered like stock. Can't imagine Welding the front half of a Chevy onto a Mopar. Would that make it a Plymolet? On the other hand, if you bought it guess you can do whatever you like, right? -
Happy b.day! Great looking car. Already got a pair of headers for it hanging on the wall, I see.
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I think the company you are talking about is White Post Auto Restoration in White Post, Virginia. They've been doing that for years. Great quality work. Pricey but not as much as rear ending someone with your prize Plymouth because you put Chinese brakes on it!
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You may have to relieve the area of the bell housing the starter bolts to. Had to have 3/8" shaved off of mine when bolting a 230 to a '48 bell housing. You can find photos of this process on this forum courtesy of Don Coatney. He obviously did the same thing. Measure from that point on bell housing to teeth on flywheel of the old one in your '38 before you remove it, then the same thing with your new engine on your '38 housing.
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Plastic pellets for toy guns. About 1/4" diameter. Never heard of using them in tires though. You learn something new every day!
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Remove trans, drop cover on bottom of bell housing, drop clutch out the bottom. Your first step should be to pick up a shop manual or motors manual though. Roberts Motor Parts (they have a web site) is a good source for parts. There is a clutch rebuilder in Johnson City , Tennessee who rebuilt mine in about 3 days. Incredible service, reasonable price. Even sent me an aligning tool. Try searching clutch rebuilder on the web. If you can't find his info pm me with your phone # & I'll try to help you locate him. The window glass is flat & any auto glass shop can cut one using your old for a pattern.
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Those can't be stock, can they? If the heads are all in as good shape as the one shown try using a hand held impact driver on them. Good luck.
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You may want to check wall to wall carpet supplies. They use a double sided adhesive tape for seams on house carpet. It's quite strong. Should be sufficient for sill plates/mats.
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Does the picture help? The 4 Phillips heads are all that shows on the inside of the car with upholstery removed. Remove them & it should come right out. The device in the square at bottom of picture. is where your handle attaches. (Plasma cutter not needed.)
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Had a similar experience with my '48.Turned out to be the gasket leaking. You'll have to remove the plate referenced by Andydodge in any event. As he says be careful to take note of what you remove & in what order. Real slippery stuff in there. It all slid out onto the floor when I did mine. Lot of fun trying to hold it all together, keep the gasket dry, replace the bolts all while hanging upside down over the fender. Hope you get it done ok.
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Like Greg G says, big difference in car & truck bell housing. Car version will be lighter, easier to fabricate cross member for. May be issues with flywheel to starter clearances but thoroughly discussed elsewhere on this forum. Early floor shifts ('37-39?) require a bell housing from the same era. Trannys from early 40s through mid 50s should be compatible & are plentiful. How to build a floor shift for these also addressed elsewhere on here. Heads, intakes, headers readily available for the "cool factor"/speed equipment. Good luck with your flathead sprint car. You're building my dream car!
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Sure you have the right belt? How did you get the old one off? If you still have the old one lay them together & check the length.
