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allbizz49

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Everything posted by allbizz49

  1. allbizz49
    Invest in a crimping tool if you don't already own one.
  2. allbizz49
    Last one I rebuilt was about 2500 all in with machine work. This was too long ago. That was new 30 over pistons, valves, gaskets, machine work, everything new. I built it but it really isn't that complicated.
  3. allbizz49
    Just rebuild it. That way you know what you have.
  4. allbizz49
    Mike's carburetor parts has the best kits I've used. Complete and he uses quality parts.
  5. allbizz49
    Are you sure they're trim rings and not Port-A-Walls? If they are whitewall inserts, they go between the bead of the rim and tire.
  6. allbizz49
    I'll keep an eye out. I'll be driving my 53 Plymouth so you do the same if you see it. Can't miss it, black stocker business coupe. Will stick out like a sore thumb in the sea of chevys and ford's.
  7. allbizz49
    Yep, in the middle of making all of the factory clutch linkage work. I have a bigger motor going into a smaller car so I have lots of little details to work on. Slowly chipping away and getting it sorted. We're just a stones throw away from each other. I go to billetproof every year. Are you going to Turlock this weekend? Going to be huge.
  8. allbizz49
    Nix the original crossmember. I ground the rivets from mine and cut the factory welds. Popped off no problem. Different car but same thing. I'm running an a833 non OD. I am welding tabs to the frame and using an original bolt in tranny crossmember once the body is off.
  9. allbizz49
    Egge
  10. allbizz49

    V8 swap

    allbizz49 replied to pflaming's topic in P15-D24 Forum

    I'd say an LA motor is probably the best bet for an easy swap. For the size of the motor and power potential, available parts and ease to work on, it would be the easy way to go. Most of them had a 904 behind them which is more than adequate for a street cruiser. I would also think a B motor might be an easy swap. Front mounted distributer and narrower than the RB.
  11. allbizz49
    I wouldn't bank on the aerostar springs dropping it one inch. The stock springs have probably sagged enough that the aerostar springs might raise it. You can move the bottom spring plate from on top to under the lower control arm to drop it. Basically free.
  12. allbizz49
    If by jet you mean idle mixture screw, you have an air leak somewhere. Shouldn't have to replace the carb, just repair it.
  13. allbizz49
    I do body and paint and I live just up 99 from you. Let me know if you need a hand or if you have any questions. My time is spread thin but I can make it down there. Also, are you going to Turlock? If so, keep an eye out for a black 53 Plymouth business coupe. That'll be me. Good luck.
  14. allbizz49

    Tube tires

    allbizz49 replied to 47ply's topic in P15-D24 Forum

    I use stock wheels and Cooper radials on my 53. No issues, drive it daily, freeway and city. I really don't see a reason to buy new wheels.
  15. allbizz49
    Mike's kits are great. Don't skimp on carb rebuilding.
  16. allbizz49
    Rusty hope.
  17. allbizz49
    My 53 sat for a month while I was getting the radiator rebuilt. Chucked the radiator in and it fired up in half a crank. I'm surprised your points did that in such a short amount of time.
  18. allbizz49
    I have 2 good exhaust manifolds that you can have for the cost of shipping.. One intake too. Not sure what shipping from California will cost but you can have one or both.
  19. allbizz49
    Why?
  20. allbizz49
    Modern can be single stage too. Urethane single stage solids look great. I prefer them to be honest to base/clear. Metallics and pearls I always shoot two stage. Your car looks good either way.
  21. allbizz49
    Not a 318 into a 51 but I am in the middle of putting a 291 Desoto hemi in my 49. As much as I want to keep the stock steering, just doesn't seem worth it. I'm going manual rack and pinion. Besides that, firewall and radiator support clearance is fine. I'm running a 4 speed though. If you get rid of the stock steering, you'll find you have much more room to play with.
  22. allbizz49
    My 53 recently developed a leak. I have a local radiator shop that does great work. He rebuilt mine with a modern style core, which was 50 bucks cheaper than the original style core. Still was 750 bucks but like I said, he does great work and has always come through for me. If you don't mind aluminum, measure your original and see what champion has that matches. If not, I'm afraid you'll have to pay up.
  23. allbizz49
    Pulling a hood isn't that difficult. If you're stripping it for paint. Take your time and look carefully for nuts on the backside of panels. I usually remove the fenders, front and rear, then remove the trim. They have to come off anyways.
  24. allbizz49
    New car lights are terrible. I hate the blue tint of the light. I guess it's great for the person driving but the rest of us get blinded. I drive at night and early morning with my old 6v headlights and can see fine. I always make sure to correctly aim my lights. Picked this habit up from working in a body shop for most of my life. It's usually overlooked, even by shops. It can make a big difference if they are out of whack.
  25. allbizz49
    They look similar to early to late 40's ford smooth hubcaps. I think mercs and trucks used them too. Might look into those and see if they'll work for you.
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