allbizz49

Just an FYI, the DMV uses the engine number as the VIN. The clerk that looked at the body serial number doesn't know what she's doing. Skip the CHP and find a more knowledgeable clerk. Good luck.

Is the bowl on the carb leaking? I can let my 53 sit for a week and it fires up within a revolution of the motor. Even if the fuel drains out of the pump/line, there should be fuel in the carb bowl to light it off

Any good auto paint jobber can match your existing paint. Just drive down to an AUTO paint store, not Home Depot unless you want latex. Have them match the quarter panels, not the cowl vent. Your skirts butt up to the quarters, not vent. You'd be surprised by the color difference between top and side panels after some time. Good luck.

For discs, go to Rusty Hope. Dual master I can't recommend anything, I run the original single reservoir still.

Weird, because one of the most successful, low budget backyard fuel teams secret to success was low compression. Wasn't their only secret but was a big factor of their success.

I think I have one in my stash. If so, I'll let you know by next weekend.

50k seems like a huge amount of money for that car. I'm not too hip to the value of these early mopars but I come across them for way less money than that on a regular basis. Im not a collector/restorer type of car guy so maybe I'm wrong. Looks nice though.

Have you gone to an auto parts store and tried to match up what you have? I'd bet money there's one on a shelf close by. Good luck with your search.

The silver strap goes around the copper one then attaches here...

I cut runs out starting with 600 wet and work up to 2000 wet then buff and polish. Find a nice flat paint stick and cut about 3 inches off. Wrap your paper around the stick and carefully sand the runs flat. Don't be shy with the paper. As soon as it's full, replace it.

I have been told we're at 10-15% here in Kommiefornia. Not sure if that's true but I think if you drive your stuff on a regular basis, you won't have a problem. My newest vehicle other than my motorcycle was built in 1959. Stock, points and carbs and I never have fuel issues. Biggest problem I see with the older cars is that they sit more than they move.

Wasn't trying to offend you AndyD. Just pointing out that paint technology has changed a lot and is constantly changing especially in California. I started painting cars professionally in 1994 and since then it has been a challenge keeping up with the changes. As far as isocyanates go, yeah, it's some bad stuff. Most any good shops provide fresh air systems for us although I have shot 1,000s of cars while wearing regular respirators.

You don't have to stick with one paint manufacturer. It's good policy, especially if you are doing it for a living. Napa paint is Sherwin Williams renamed Martin Senour. It's ok, I'd say mid level. I sprayed it for a few years in a collision shop I worked at. I use mostly House of Color and Matrix on the cars and motorcycles that I paint. Talk to the guys that you're buying paint from. Those guys are pretty knowledgeable most of the time. What are you looking to get in the end? Stock looking or super shiny? Most good paints anymore don't use much, if any reducer especially in California. Mixing paint and clear is something guys did way back. With the high solids clear we have now, you get your base coat color where you like and clear it. No messing around and it's pretty simple.

I always use sealer before paint. I prime and block multiple times before I paint a car too. Once you have the car ready, masked up ,wiped down and tacked, shoot a nice wet coat of sealer. Let it flash for an hour or so then start shooting your color. I finish my surfacer with 320 dry, sometimes 400 wet. Either way I always seal. It makes for a nice barrier between the surfacer and color. Also, the sealer I use can be mixed in various colors to help your color cover quicker. Any good paint shop should be able to mix up the color you need. Good luck.

Check throttle shaft to throttle body clearance. It's a problem with these old dogs

I don't think the engine numbers should be a factor in you buying the car. Price, what needs to be done, what your end result expectations are, and your ability to work on it or funds for paying someone to work on it should be considered first. Engine numbers don't really matter. Good luck, looks like a nice car. If it's cheap enough, buy it and start making fun memories with your sons.

I live where 110 isn't uncommon and 100-105 is the norm in summer. I never, ever have any overheating, percolating or any other problems that guys seem to have. My car is as stock as can be, fan, radiator and water pump.

Spark plugs never lie. .. .

I have one in my trunk. Nothing fancy or show worthy. Just a regular old fire extinguisher.

I've never seen a separate gasket on any front cover seal on any motor I've built. Install your new seal and put your cover on. A little oil on the outside and inside rubber lip and you should be good to go.

PB blaster and heat. Marvel Mystery oil with a bit of acetone is a good one too.

You can do matte in single stage or base clear. I have painted many cars, bikes and trucks in matte. I have my jobber mix in flattening base into the paint if it's single stage. Usually PPG Delfleet. It's up to the customer to decide on the degree of gloss. 60 degree gloss is about what you are looking for. Hotrod Flats is also a good matte finish but it comes premixed at around 30 degree gloss. You can also buy matte clear but for a solid with no metallic or pearl, I shoot single stage. Rattle can paint is garbage. It has no UV protection and goes to crap quickly. You want a catalyzed urethane if you want it to last. I shot an old Toyota four wheeler for my nephew 10 years ago with Hotrod Flatz and it still is holding up. Another cheap option is regular old hardened enamel. Think Rust-Oleum or even Tractor Supply paint. It will be shiny for a bit but it quickly dulls off.

Well shoot, a little too far for me to swing by and help. Good luck, you'll get it lit

Where in California are you?

If you bring your pistons and block/head to a good machinist and tell them what you want, you should be able to get what you want. Honestly, any fresh build, especially these flatheads with pathetic compression, should get both the deck and head milled. If you're spending the dough to rebuild one of these engines, why not spend a few more to true it all up?