dpollo

If you want to keep this simple, put in a 230 from a later model Dodge and use your 218 head to increase compression. Check flywheel and starter ring gear offsets. All will be bolt in modifications .

.050 is not a common bore size however, if your bores are good at -050 and if you need only two pistons, it is possible to have a machine shop cam grind .060 pistons down to 050. Away back pistons were often provided semi finished and the machine shop would finish grind them to size. However, as mentioned above it is probably cheaper to bore or hone to .060.

My sincerest condolences. Legendary people do live among us and when suddenly they are gone, the sense of loss makes us more aware of what is really important in life.

The lines are 5/16 and the thread at the tank outlet is a standard flare nut size but do not overlook the fact that there is a ferrule which must be inserted in the tank opening to seal the external gas line with the internal tube. =< <> >= the symbols illustrate ...fuel line with inverted flare ... ferrule.... internal tank line with inverted flare. I could not illustrate the flare nut or the tank fitting but they encase the other parts.

Short answer is Yes. BUT even though you can sit the bell housing on the stock rear mounts, you will likely find that the starter is right up against the steering box. I had All the stuff, 241, 54 bell housing, transmission with the delete fluid drive option (really long input shaft) and R10 Overdrive and was going to put it in a 52 Plymouth but the starter and steering obstacle made me pursue other options. The Dodge chassis is a little bigger so who knows until you try. Good luck.

I think you may find the missing 90 degrees in the key part. I do know I have wrestled with this from time to time. Good Luck.

Sometimes all you need to do is turn the lock shaft 90 degrees so the motion can be transferred to the door lock without coming up against any stops in the key-way itself. I have run into this problem several times when replacing locks.

Yes, it will, and if it is of any comfort to you, they did not cause much trouble if kept lubricated. You might want to mark where the old outer bushing is before removing it and put the new one back in exactly the same position. This will keep your camber adjustment close. dp

If you send me a PM with your email address, I can photograph them on my phone and fwd that to you. The cab pictured above seems to be a 54 which is different from 48 to 53.

I suspect an extension cord arrangement was made to get across the dash. In my own truck, the noise it makes and my diminishing hearing makes a radio kind of useless. I am glad my truck has the factory dash cut-out. If it ever had a delete panel, it was long ago lost. I have chosen to fill the space with the tuner section of a 51 Plymouth radio and even though I have the other parts including the proper antenna, I doubt that I will ever use them.

The upper control arm is easily removed. 4 bolts on the inner shaft and the pin at the outer. The upper bushing is held in the knuckle support with a bolt 9/16 head. It is eccentric for camber adjustment. It requires no special tools to replace but the inner bushings were assembled in a jig and were loaded slightly. It is important to keep the inner shaft centered as that can effect caster although it is not a caster adjustment. You can change the outer bushing and pin without removing the entire control arm. Camber can be adjusted roughly with a level but movements here can effect toe in so it would be best to find an alignment shop with someone who knows how to do an older car.

I am useless at posting pictures but just recently re did the weatherstrip on my 52 Fargo. There was enough rubber left on the doors to indicate where the strips go At the bottom, my kit has a round rubber tube with a flap which holds it behind the body panel ( the piece which closes the space between the floor and the running board.) so the round part will rest in the hollow groove in the door just below floor level. This strip is fastened to the body, not the door. The next piece is a relatively flat piece of rubber which is glued to the door edge closest to the inside from floor level and stops just above window level but near its top travels across the door to meet up with the more conventional door seal. This is at the point where the angle of the window opening starts to lean backward This strip is visible from in the cab. It seals the gap between the door and the A pillar. The end where it meets up with the other seal can be bevelled for a neat fit. The third piece is a more conventional shape and travels up over the top of the door and continues down past the latch until it meets up with the round seal on the body. I saw no evidence of any kind of door seal below the floor level. I got my rubber from Dodge City Truck Parts It seems to work well but the odd thing about the way the truck is made is that the door seal at the front must cope with the door hinge bolts.

The radio from a 51 to 52 Plymouth fits the holes in the dash but I do not know where the power supply unit (separate) is to be mounted. The speaker would be mounted behind the screen in the dash. Your truck has the same as my 52 Deluxe cab.

as dedicated as I am to MoPar, a 57 Chev 283 is a nice fit into your Dodge's chassis , The front mounts will sit nicely onto the Dodge's crossmember, the oil pan sump clears the steering. Fuel pump may be tight. Radiator will work with tapered hoses which will match up with the pump and top outlet. It may have to go on the front of the crossmember. and the starter is on the rhs. out of the way. If you can get a 265 LHS exhaust manifold, it will clear the steering box better than the ram's horn style. You may find the spark plug at the back is close to the steering column. A rear mount will need to be fabricated for the transmission. A 57 rear end is the right width and the axles can be redrilled so Dodge wheels will fit. The brakes will be compatible with your Dodge fronts. Low buck and reliable.

There is no need to prime it. If you want to keep it on the shelf for awhile, spray some WD 40 in it.

Got me beat. It has never been exposed to the elements. a stand off bracket for a heater part ? Of course, it was always a good trick to throw in an extra part when no one was looking. Best one I ever pulled was a shouldered left hand thread bolt which looked like it was intended to support the seat track on a 60s truck. It was actually out of a differential and I was tired of working for that guy anyways.

I have seen this many many times and on almost all makes. The wrong gasket or a gasket which is wrongly installed keeps the "power " valve open and mileage is cut almost in half. A vacuum leak will do this too. Look for a crack in the middle intake runner between the manifold and the block usually on the underside.

and let us not forget Plymouth Gin one of the finest.

I am sure that information is out there somewhere. dp

so far so good. Don't overlook that the vacuum motor has to have an air inlet. This is in the cover or in the vicinity of the cover over the reversing mechanism ( toggle) It often gets plugged with dirt from under the dash. If you loosen this cover by reaching through the radio opening and the wipers speed up then you know the filter is in need of cleaning. You can also lube the inside of the motor by spraying WD40 into the air inlet while the wipers are running. Needless to say, do this outside where exhaust fumes will not sneak up on you.

The serial number on the left hand door post ( A pillar) starts with a 1 which means Detroit. That explains the 23 inch engine. 9 is Windsor and 2 is LosAngeles II am not sure what Evansville used.

I do know that up to 38 they were the same and possibly 39 with a different lid. After that, a parts manual may reveal if there is a case with the selector mounted on the r h s Chances are there is..

You pull the arm away from the glass as far as it will go then with a flat screwdriver tease the cap off of its spline. You cannot see the spline as it is completely hidden by the cap. When the arm is against the glass, there is a little tab which prevents the cap from coming off. you may need to put a little WD 40 around the splined part. Your car looks to be in good shape judging by the area around the cowl vent so I do not expect you will have too much trouble

Industrial engines s did not always have heat risers and some that did were set manually. The heat riser is directly below the carb. There is little direct relation between the heat riser and the Sissons choke unit. Adjustments for the choke can be found in the automotive shop manuals and this has been discussed on this forum too. The main advantage of the Sissons choke is that it closes electrically when the starter is engaged. The electrical component is the usual point of failure.

The 57 to 59s use a transmission with two selector levers unlike 40 -56 . Also, the transmission has a rear mount and the whole works is longer.The control has a tee handle as pictured above with OVERDRIVE written on it. When I obtained the transmission I mentioned above , I thought it would be an easy item to resell . However, most of the cars remaining likely have the V 8 and automatic. It is interesting to me that the bell housing is drilled to fit both the V8 and the 6. None of these parts will work on 40 to 56.