dpollo

I install mine with the open side of the bearing down. That way, water will not lay in the bearing and it will get grease when the lower bushing is greased. It is a very poor setup, at best.

There is a switch which fits under the mounting studs for the brake handle and is found on many 49 and 50 Chryslers and it was an option for all others. It is wired to the map light on the Chrysler but can be wired to any suitable pilot light. It draws power from the signal flasher and will flash the light faster.... like a signal with a bulb burned out........ if you pull the signal lever down while the brake light is flashing, then the signals will flash in unison with the warning light. Simple but very effective.

It sounds like your fluid drive unit is low on oil. Raise the mat on the right hand side of the transmission hump and remove the cover and the rubber plug in the bell housing. Have someone turn the engine with the fan blades until the fill plug for the fluid drive is exposed. A special non foaming oil was used in these units but I know of no reason why ATF will not work. See oil recommendations from Dodge b4ya. The transmission itself has no parts which can slip and uses SAE 10 motor oil. The foot clutch need only be used when starting the engine and to move the gear lever. They rarely wear out. The trans will shift without the electrics as they only control the kick down. Take a few deep breaths, I doubt that anything is seriously wrong.

If that is a nut on the bottom, then it is the front body mount stud 49-52 possibly others.after a second look, I am not so sure. Maybe a lug bolt for the dual wheel ?

I often thought that if I opened an engine shop I would use a grenade as my logo then no one could complain.

I have a 52 and I made new box planks from local west coast fine grained fir. The original wood was some sort of eastern hardwood which in fact seemed pretty soft. I have not had the truck out in the wet so I do not know yet if the fir will cup but I have sealed it pretty thoroughly. The thickness is 7/8 and the grooves for the box strips which I bought from Mar K can all be cut on a tablesaw. What surprised me is that the outer planks are tapered as the box is actually one inch wider at the tailgate than at the front panel. I do not know if all trucks are that way but mine certainly is which means I have to re make the outer planks. The truck is not at my home now so I cannot give you dimensions other than the thickness. I can recommend MarK for their box strips and bolt kit. They probably sell wood too . Have a look at their on line catalog.

I agree with the above, chances are the journals are now standard with some considerable wear and .010 willclean everything up, but how do you know until everything has been measured? In fairness to the machine shop guy, he may be thinking that undersize bearing shells are scarce and he would then have to go with what is available. Shells were common in .010, 020 and 030 . O10 would be my preference if it is possible.

Andydodge gives good advice. What is the engineering code stamped on the block just above the generator? A 46 Plymouth should be P15 C or P15S. That does not preclude replacement engines which may be, in all practical purposes correct. If your engine has accessories which suggest it started life in a different car, then it is something which is easily dealt with. Given that these cars are almost 70 years old, it is hard to find one which still uses all its original equipment.

Surveyors were working in the region of the Montana -Alberta border when a woman with a shotgun demanded to know what they were doing in her barnyard. "We are surveyors ma'am and we are surveying the USA-Canada border" "Which side am I on?" demanded the woman. " Seems you are on the U S side , ma'am" " Good ", says she, " I've heard them Canadian winters are just awful. "

The Chrysler (sometimes Desoto) solenoid controlled starter will do the job as it is shorter. Your biggest challenge will be to find one. Bell housings are not that hard to change. You can leave your D24's housing in the car if you undo the fluid drive from the crankshaft Mark its position at TDC first as the bolts are unevenly spaced.

just use your D24 starter. You could also use the starter found on Chryslers which have a solenoid mounted on top but this can interfere with the gearshift levers. The only starter complications I have run into are the 33-4 Plymouth. Some 218/230 swaps and the mixing of earlier parts with 57 to 59 bell housings.

Chrysler sixes had a reputation for being hard to start in cold and damp circumstances. It may be a bad rap but there are things that can be done : First thing to check is the compression. If it is too low, there is no way to make the engine start other than pushing the car. Next check the battery condition and the cables and consider using a battery tender which keeps the battery fully charged. Also the weight of the oil. 30 would be a bit stiff in a Montana winter. Plugs and points should be in good condition and correctly gapped. There is really no need to go to 8 volt or 12 volt . These are often stop-gap measures which mask other problems, not the least of which could be a lack of fuel or a choke which is not operating correctly. I currently have five vehicles which have an assortment of flathead six engines and are all six volt systems. I have rarely had trouble getting them started and when I have had troubles it usually involved dampness and old ignition leads.

I had my 50 Plymouth out today for a pretty good run. I am just glad there are more than one of us left. It is the vacuum between my ears that has me worried.

Lots of conversation but the merits of pushing fuel outweigh the more traditional setups in that vapor lock ceases to be a problem . You can push fluids more effectively with a pump mounted in the fluid or very nearby. No system pulls fuel anywhere. The engine mounted pump creates a low pressure area and it is the atmosphere which pushes the fuel along. If the pump could create a complete vacuum then the atmosphere would have about a 15 pound advantage. The pressure side of the pump then does the rest. A fuel filter will work more effectively on the pressure side of the pump but in practical terms, especially if the tank is dirty, an in line filter can be placed between the pump and the tank.

I can provide wiring diagrams if needed.

The muffler used by Chevrolet in the late 50s, early sixties was the same as that used by most Plymouths and Dodges of the early 50s except for the outlet pipe size. A simple swaging (right word ? enlargement) is all that is needed for a perfect fit. Unfortunately I cannot recall the number, but the one for the Plymouth may have been 467.

The gear lever pivot at the top of the steering column is a composition bushing which is threaded. It is not meant to be lubricated under the normal course of events but can become extremely stiff. Undo the two screws which hold it to the column jacket and see if it moves freely. If not, try some WD 40 or similar non staining lubricant.

PA has it right but to clarify : Set engine at TDC #1 . Looking down at the pump shaft , line up the slot on the gear end with the 2 bolt holes in the pump body. Rotate the shaft anti clockwise one tooth then insert into engine.

sounds right to me. The angle it meets the lever on the trans looks odd at first because it sweeps up from below, but that is the only way it will work right,

Try disconnecting the wire that goes from the transmission control circuit to the points side of the ignition coil . This will prevent the ignition from being interrupted. If that prevents stalling then try to find a shop manual which gives the diagnosis and testing for the Simplimatic . My 49-52 manual WM 4247 is quite thorough in this regard but too detailed to get into here.

I would have a look in the distributor but first, disconnect the vacuum advance line at the carburetor then drive the car. If the bucking goes away or changes then the problem lies in the flexible leads in the distributor which insure a good ground to the points plate (moveable) and to the coil connection.

Have another look at the firewall near the voltage regulator . There is a small punch-out about 3/8 inch which is for the od cable. above it are two holes which mount the relay. If your car does not have these, send me a PM and I will measure my own 52 for you. Seems to me even the 50 has the cable punch out but not the relay mount.

I don't think a generalization can be made about the use of pot metal and stainless. Stainless moldings are used on most Canadian cars with the exception of the grilles in 41 and 46 to 48. The 49 pictured at the start of this thread has a stainless grill and fender mouldings as well as sill mouldings belt moldings, windshield and rear window trim and possibly the rear fender gravel shields. My 50, 51 and 52s have also been predominantly stainless except for the gravel shields. which carry the same part number as the US 50 for all three years. I have a NOS 41 grille which is a polished aluminum casting(s) It does not carry a MoPar part # but looks the same as the ones on the cars pictured above. Curious and Curiouser.

Nothing confusing about it if you start at the beginning. 1933. Plymouth's first sixes looked too short in the front so a longer snout was used and under it was the longer Dodge frame. Thus began the twinning of Plymouth and Dodge. For each year thereafter until the Autopact of 1966, Dodge built a car on a Plymouth chassis and body which was trimmed out to look like the larger Dodge. These cars were built in Detroit for export and in Windsor for the Canadian market. When Windsor opened its engine plant in 1938, all cars built in Canada used the longer block though the displacements almost matched their US cousins. Canada also built the full size Dodge with Fluid Drive. This whole exercise had more to do with marketing strategy where purses were tighter but the upscale appeal of the Dodge name drew customers in. Pontiac built a full range of cars on the Chevrolet chassis and Ford scaled down their Mercury and called it a Meteor.

putting shims behind the shells is not good practice. It is done to avoid replacing of shells and to compensate for a crank journal which is out of spec. Shells were available in Std. 001, 002 and 003 as well as 010, 011 and 012 and 020 and 030. This part of an overhaul is too critical to mess around with. It sounds like your engine was given a patch-up at some time when the car was not really worth spending a lot of money on. That it survived this long is testimony to the toughness of these engines and the inventiveness of people with more time than money.