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Lehman57

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  1. Thanks Rich. That is the statement I wanted. I had never seen it actually stated. So, finding none is expected.
  2. Thanks Donald for the Photos. I'll be saving them. The first one shows a setup virtually like mine. I don't think I have the weight and bimetallic spring shown in the second photo; apparently because this is an industrial engine on a WW2 trailer pump, but I'll have to get out a wire brush and mirror to be sure--it is virtually hidden behind the relocated fuel tank. The heat riser (if there is one) apparently is manually set and is fixed from what I hear, but I have never seen any instructions on that.
  3. Thanks Alshere59. Got it; now to read to see if it says anything about the heat riser that someone, not on this site, has said is in the manifolds. I doubt it though since there is no physical connection that I can see.
  4. Tom, Do you have a website address or full name for Imperial? Thanks. I haven't found it yet.
  5. Thanks again to rich and to dpollo whose first 3 sentences are the most meaningful to me. As modified, the manifolds are almost invisible close behind the gas tank; I'll have to brush off some rust to see what I can see. After I get a positive ground starter solenoid hooked up, I'll see how things work.
  6. Thanks Rich. So, there are no adjustments to be made to the Sisson choke. I have some instructions about setting the Sisson choke.
  7. I have a Chrysler industrial engine in a 1943 civil defense trailer pump. It has a Sisson choke. A friend tells me there is some sort of heat riser where the intake and exhaust manifolds come together. But there is nothing about this in the manuals I have--not much on the Sisson choke either! Can someone describe what exists here and how to adjust it. A drawing or sketch would be great. Thanks.
  8. I have to make a new choke for my Sisson choke as used on a Chrysler engine circa 1942. I have 3 questions: --Is the rod straight? I think so, but am not sure. --How long is it? --Are the bends at the connections in the same, or opposite, direction? Thanks.
  9. This is used on a WW2 civil defense trailer pump, not on a car. That might make a difference. As far as I know, the carb is original--I got it from a museum east of Cleveland, OH.
  10. Sisson choke rod length measures about 10 1/8". This is with the choke open, and the Sisson arm pushed down. If I understand the operation correctly, this length is not extremely critical, because the arm is adjusted. Thanks. I haven't found the clips yet, but have several places to look. (I didn't check this site for several days.)
  11. I'm trying to get my Sisson choke hooked up, but apparently do not have the choke rod that goes choke to carburetor. Does anyone have an extra? I'm not sure what model I have (can't find the number), but maybe AC-758. It is on a 1943 Chrysler engine in a WW2 trailer pump. I can make a rod, but the clips would be nice to have.
  12. No, not like this at all. Not full flow. Probably is the unavailable one, and I'll have to convert.
  13. I searched a bit and didn't find much that I recognize--that the canister filter seems to be obsolete, and that a more modern oil filter is suggested. But I didn't find a filter equivalent so I can replace it, nor did I find instructions for installing a modern filter system. Can someone teach me about these things? Or provide a source for me to go to? It now has a WIX 51035 on it, but I'm not sure that is really the correct one. It is a 1943 trailer pump using a Chrysler flathead engine. Thousands of these were built, but few are left. Thanks.
  14. I have a Sisson choke on a 1943 Chrysler engine in a trailer pump built for Civilian Denfense. Any gasket was gone when I got it; I understand the gasket has a solid center, but there are at least 3 questions. --The ears with the bolt holes were deformed (by rust packout since the bolts were broken??) Are there any ideas on how to get the bottom flat again? --What should the resistance of the electromagnet be? I measured around 0 to 2 ohms, which seems more like a short, meaning a ruined magnet or bad insulation. --How does the choke disassemble in case I need to? Thanks.
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