dpollo

Canadian trucks that I have owned did not have such a tag however they did have a tag with similar hole spacing which had a number.This was found on the firewall on the driver's side . An identical tag was attached to the left front corner of the box where it could neither be read nor removed while the box was in place. I did not reattach these when I restored my Fargo partly because they have nothing to do with the serial number for registration purposes . I think I will dig them out and see if they match any paint codes.

While we are on this topic, I can think of no reason why an M5 or M6 would not work without the fluid drive unit, just a dry clutch. It might not work well but it would be different. Any ideas ? (and no, I am not going to spend a bunch of money re machining the input shaft just to find out but I am willing to wager that somebody has at some time)

Tuxedo Blue is a close match to Oshawa Blue which may be a GM colour of that era, It is a very dark blue which can be mixed using Centari 2 parts 725A and 1 part 724A/ I am not sure if these Dupont numbers are still viable but this was essentially 2 parts black, 1 part blue. ( the ratio may be reversed, it has been a long time.)

The Big Horn appeared in 51 and was modified slightly for 52 and 53 but the ram as a mascot first appeared in 1932 ( possibly 31) and went from finely detailed to abstract over the years. It last appeared on the hood of the 54 but it you stand and face a 55, the exaggerated horns form the top bars of the grille with the head as the grill center. (no kidding ! ) It then reappeared on trucks in the 80s.

For some demented reason-- long forgotten, Chrysler Canada's codes and colours were different from US colors. Just for your info, Mexico Red, a color used on convertibles 49-52 has an exact match in 1977 Chrysler Claret Red and Cruiser Maroon can be found in a very close match in 1970 Ford commercial colours. It also appears that Sea Foam green ( also found 49 to 52) has reappeared on recent Fiat 500s . Using a modern formula and keeping a record of it will be a big help if a repair needs to be made.

That is a Canadian colour code all right. However, many colours prior to 49 were impossible to match exactly because of a major change in the mixing colours and pigments. Your best bet is to have the paint mixed with modern pigments. Auto paint suppliers can spectrograph the old finish, come up with a near match then adjust to suit. Old time painters could do this by eye ! My colour book starts in 1949 with color 4100 New Brunswick Blue wish I could be of more help but I still think it is best to go foe a near match using modern pigments. Also, it is very difficult to make a choice using the samples found in colour books. The samples are too small and I have seen some vile choices made this way. Better to look at complete cars noting the year and make or better yet have a look at the code.

To my eye it looks like a superficial casting flaw. Leave it alone and don't worry. If it really bothers you a bit of JB weld would hide it from sight and prevent any leakage.

I remember well with my first '40 giving it a hard run.... as only a 16 year old can... and being followed home by a cloud of steam. It was still running well so I raised the hood and peered into the radiator. I watched as the tide went out then I was rewarded with a face full of hot antifreeze ! The engine cut up rough and stalled. Big gap between 3 and 4 ! No other harm done but I could not get it to start after a new gasket was installed. We towed it with a tractor until it started. The exhaust continued to blow fog until all the coolant which had collected in the muffler was cleared out. Took about ten minutes. You can expect the same.

Back in 1968, I had a nice 57 Belvedere two door hardtop . All white, tinted glass, blue interior V 8 Torqueflite. Wish I had kept it . It will be hard to find another at a reasonable price.

The fellow who made these head covers as described by Rick and pictured below his post lives near me. He may have a couple left both for 23 and 25 inchers. I will put you in touch if you send me a PM.

It seems like a lot of work for little gain. If it is easier access to the brakes that you want then drill and locate the original drum with countersunk head screws before removing the rivets. Then the drum will still be centered before you put studs in the bolt holes. If it is a larger brake that you want, then a Chrysler or Desoto 11by 2 will fit along with the backing plate. To use these on the front requires the matching spindle. King pins are the same.

I put a complete 36 Dodge engine and trans into a 26 Dodge . Used the 36 pedal and master cylinder mount as well. Easy day, but perhaps I was lucky. 40 Plyrod on this forum has the 26 now should you be seeking photos etc.

The toughest part of rebuilding a 37 trans is the removal of the synchronizer drum. It has an insane spring loaded ball in the mainshaft which must be depressed so the unit will slide off. Seems to me I inserted a bit of shim stock to accomplish this. Bearings are all standard items. It may be that the low-reverse slider will show the most wear. I used an 87 Dodge Dakota axle shaft seal for the rear seal. The opening in the trans required a slight enlargement. This seal cost about $5 at the time.

Camshaft driven generators were commonplace at this time. Buick had a cam driven generator with the distributor on the back of it followed by the water pump. Very neat but hard to service.. Your engine will likely have thick walled babbited inserts for the main bearings which can likely be re used. This engine shares no components with the later 25 inch engine . Water pumps were used on all Chrysler engines except the 4. Engine designs were advancing rapidly at this time. You will find your engine has very narrow application. The SAE publication Chrysler Engines 1922-1998 by Willem L Weertman will give you the whole story/

I owned a P4 sedan for thirty years from 1968 to 1998. At 54 400 miles I bored to .050 and ground the crank 010. new cam bearings and chain and used a later oil pump. A GOOD runner . A word of caution. Mark the oil cross over pipe before removing it. If you put it on end for end, the counterweight just kisses it , making a most alarming noise. The correct way does not look as neat as the wrong way but clears everything.

I would be concerned that a connecting rod bearing is available -.040 for this engine.

Personally, I prefer to keep all my cars 6 volts . If all the components are in good shape, it will work just fine. Should you decide to change, you must limit the voltage in the gas gauge circuit and change the heater motor. Your car likely has vacuum wipers so that is not a problem. Since most alternators are set up for negative ground, you will have to reverse the connections on the ammeter so it reads correctly. All your switches will work fine as will the wiring in general. The radio will need a resistor but will work on negative ground.

This is not going to be a quick fix given that you have to pull the axles and the gearset to get the stud out. It is capped and splined on the inner end. A source may be found at the transmission brake drum to driveshaft coupling as four similar bolts are used there. Otherwise I will send you one for the cost of postage if you send me a PM.

I used Plymouth Fury 15 inch slotted police wheels on my 57 Fargo. With a corvette trim ring and mopar dog dish hubcaps they looked great and had about a 7 inch tire rim width.

That is certainly a new one on me. For years I have been servicing a Chrysler Crown in a Shepherd runabout. This one looks like it may be an Ace (23 inch) but it has some interesting variations not the least of which is the head and its spark plug spacing. Also different is the manifold and the location of the cooling lines. Magneto ignition with a vacuum chamber which is not really needed on a marine .engine . Fascinating and worthy of further study. Thanks for posting it.

The 51 mechanism is significantly different from the 50 since it is located closer to the driver. I may have one kicking around.

Slots go on the non thrust side (distributor side)

Good advice from PA. If you can somehow get air pressure behind the valve, it may move but put the cap in place (without the spring) or it could come out like a bullet ! You would have to install the crankshaft and camshaft to block all the oil holes. not easy especially since the cam bearings probably got eaten up by the hot tank process and you do not want to waste a new set .

If it is a solid skirt all the way around then they can go either way.

The fitting into the gauge is special. Cut the line and reconnect it with a double flared union somewhere between the firewall and the gauge. The rest is 3/16 tubing , same as a lot of brake lines.