dpollo

If it is a solid skirt all the way around then they can go either way.

The fitting into the gauge is special. Cut the line and reconnect it with a double flared union somewhere between the firewall and the gauge. The rest is 3/16 tubing , same as a lot of brake lines.

That is a simple fix. The link between the shifter and the transmission has two rods. One transfers the motion of the lever up and down, (or clockwise and anti clockwise.) The other transfers the motion of the lever being pulled toward the driver. It is this rod in your car which needs to be shortened slightly. The adjustment will be found either at the steering column end or at the transmission. If you tighten it up too much you will have first and reverse but no second and high . For reasons of the angles involved, it is always reverse which gets difficult. I learned this at the end of a country lane in my dad's car and with a "date"....... so it is a lesson which has endured for 52 years now.

Yes, you are indeed correct. About 1946 two conversions were built as prototypes. One had a gear driven dual overhead cam setup They found that this conversion put out more horsepower than the straight eight. They also built a flathead V 8 at this time which looked like the Ford except the exhaust was along the top like the Cadillac. In his book Chrysler Engines 1922-1998 Willard L Weertman gives the details of these in chapter 8.

In Victoria BC back in the early 60s there was a 48 Plymouth coupe with an overhead conversion made upin the local shipyards. It was made of plates of steel machined then fitted together. On first glance under the hood, it looked like a chev six because the rockers and top cover may have been GM components. I wish I had asked more intelligent questions at the time. A friend tracked this fellow down many years later and he said that they made two of them since the first one did not cool well. I wish I knew more. Around my place we insist " Real men don't need overhead valves" Thanks Jakub for a most interesting history.

The cross over pipe must be installed in such a way so the pipe will not be struck by the crankshaft counterweight. This is easy to do on a 201 since it only interferes lightly, but enough to make a terrible clatter. As for the 230 I recall that interference is quite obvious if the pipe is installed backward. The float is centered by lining its pipe up with the rear main's (camshaft-side) bolt. This is indicated in most service manuals. On the pan gasket, do not trim the end pieces. there are longer pan rail bolts for the ends where the pan flange has reinforcement. Check the pan for bolt holes which have been stretched and repair if necessary with a hammer and dolly.

It should be a bolt in so long as you use your car's front mount and bell housing Just check starter/ ring gear which can be an issue with the 230. If both engines use the 4 bolt flywheel then there should be no problem at all. I replaced a 201 in my 35 PJ with a 218 without any problems. Use the 218 intake manifold as it will likely have a larger carb. flange.

Jakub, Your English is just fine. No changes are needed. Thank you for a most interesting story about Our Favorite Flathead.

Years ago, I got a stainless hinge that was meant for a Mack truck. I cannot remember the details and it required a very slight reshaping of the "trough " edges. but otherwise is superior to the original on my 35.

I was never able to get a kit for repairing the valve in my 51 Ply, It is the same as yours. I went to a local auto supply and found in their catalog of heater controls, one that fits a Honda. It is an inline plastic valve with an attachment for the control cable which I re routed slightly so the valve would sit out of sight under the heater duct. Somewhere I kept the box with the number of the valve, I will look for it. It was $60. I put a metal plate over the original hole.

If it ran for long with bearings like that, it must have been noisy ! What usually happens at that stage is one half overlaps the other and the engine seizes up tight. The crankshaft will have sustained damage too and will need to be reground or replaced. I would replace the connecting rods which held these bearings as the bearing seat will be out of specs too.

Advertising for the 51 Dodge said "Drive it for five minutes and you'll drive it for years! " ,,, sounds about right! Congratulations on a job well done and I support your decision to change oil and the type of oil you chose. Happy Motoring !

I noticed this problem back in the 60s when these items were easily obtainable new. There is a difference between the mounts which were found in Fluid drive cars and those in the Plymouth although they will interchange. All the replacement mounts, even the DPCD ones seem harder. One thing to check is that the through bolt is not compressing the mount. The mount both upper and lower should not be compressed. A spacer which makes the tube longer may be a solution. It can sometimes be very difficult to remove these mounts with the engine in the car. Not all cars had a doughnut on the bottom, some had only a rubber washer. The driver's side is the most important as the engine tends to lift on acceleration.

Glad to see everyone is having fun. I made my 52 Fargo work instead of me. Loaded up a winter's accumulation of garbage and headed for the dump. Passed the 1000 mile mark since total restoration and loving it more and more.

If the Dodge followed the same trends as the Plymouth , the only body part which is interchangeable is the hood ornament. Mechanically, the transmissions are different, In fact the 40 is a very different car.

The engine is definitely 46 to early 49 Dodge and is likely a 230. ( you can never tell with rebuilders). Look for an eight bolt crank flange to confirm the 230. The trans is the "shorty " used in all the short wheelbase models. It has the input shaft for a regular flywheel and clutch. Why they used this instead of shortening the driveshaft is a mystery. The strength that the tailshaft extension gave to the longer transmission was a real benefit. Anyways, Surfmerc, it should not be hard to get the Plymouth bell housing and flywheel and related parts. Elsewhere on this forum there are cautions about ring gear and starter issues which may be encountered. Don Coatney posted some pictures, if I recollect.

Congratulations on a job well done. If your timing problem is a puzzle to you as to why it was not where it should have been, consider this: To install the oil pump, first the slot for the distributor is lined up with the bolt holes. Then the shaft is turned one tooth anti clockwise and the pump is inserted into the engine which has had the crankshaft set at #1 TDC. If that one tooth was not turned, or if it missed when inserted then your timing would be retarded by that amount which would result in a no start. Since you have moved the wires enough to get you in range of adjustment there is no need to do anything more but if you cannot get enough adjustment then the oil pump gear position is the culprit.

If the drain hole for the back camshaft bearing gets plugged, oil can rise up and make its exit through the draft tube. However, this situation usually results in severe loss of oil.

The first step in a double flare is to make a kind of closed bell shape at the end of the line. Then this is pressed into the tool to complete the flare. For the tank fitting you stop at step 1. The union in the line is in the vicinity of the driver's door. ====<> =====<< 1 2

The flare at the tank end is not a double flare. Look at your old one. It can be duplicated by using the tubing nut but making only half of the double flare . Otherwise, it will not seal against the dip tube in the tank. Prior to 49, a ferrule-like fitting was inserted into the tank. There is at least one union in the original gas line....... this same line treatment can be found in this union and , if that piece of pipe is still in decent shape , could be used at the tank end.

If you have difficulty installing the fuel pump, give the engine half a turn and try again. If the cam lobe is in the lift position it makes it hard to install the pump.

I am not sure what the value in microfarads is for the generator mounted anti-static condenser but no harm would be done as long as any condenser is attached to the Armature terminal.

T 120 has it right. 228 3 3/8 x 4 1/4 These engines s run really nicely when bored .060 and standard 3 7/16 pistons are used. That makes for 236 cu. in.

You may wish to read the thread ( IAT distributors )in the other part of the forum (P15/D24) some of us have had issues with parts for the IAT and these are discussed fairly thoroughly there. So far as I know the 55 distributor's parts are compatible with the 51. There is a different style of rotor found in 55 and 6. None of these use the counterweight rotor and larger cap found pre mid-50

Since you are putting together a unit with matched parts, the dowel pins will be right on. As for the gasket, Yes, it needs to be there to seal the top shift rail hole. A thin paper gasket is easily made.