dpollo

In order for the engine in a Plymouth to have the same compression ratio say 7 to 1 in a 3 3/8 by 4 1/16 cylinder (218 divided by 6) it must employ a smaller chambered head than that of a 265 3 7/16 by 4 3/4 (265 divided by 6 ). Therefore if you use a 218 head on a 265 , it will increase the compression ratio significantly. It is a hot afternoon and I am unwilling to do the math )

The 49 uses what appears to be an Overdrive Cable to unlatch the hood. This cable is actually a little lighter than the proper OD cable and is routed along the inner fender. Where it goes through the firewall, I do not know. In any event, the OD control need only be convenient to operate and pass through all the other wires and controls without interference. Not a big problem as long as the cable you use is long enough. I found a light PTO control cable that worked well but I did not get a part # with it. There is another which does not have quite enough length in the handle end to pull to lock out without the handle coming out of its sleeve. Works though.

Brute strength can often succeed where fitness and skill have failed but I would still do some measuring before attempting to re assemble. Dodge B4ya may be right.

Prints from a 120 or a 35 millimeter camera. Note that I bought this car in 1968 and sold it in 1998.

That is a Canadian 218 engine (25 inch) and although it would fit into your Windsor, bolt for bolt, it would prove to be woefully underpowered. The bigger cars need the necessary torque of the longer stroke to get them moving. If the price is right, there are some parts you might need. These include the manifolding and the water pump, the cylinder head ( good way to raise compression ) and miscellaneous pieces for the 25 inch block.

Short answer, none that are in a format which would make it possible for me to post here. it did appear on the cover of the Plymouth Bulletin #200 in 1993 and again in side Bulletin #331 (March April 2015) p 32 dressed up in military gear as a staff car. This issue is still available and is dedicated to the 37 Plymouths. The Plymouth Bulletin is the publication of the Plymouth Owners Club and I can recommend it highly.

Back in the 60s I bought a 37 Plymouth which had only 51000 miles on it. All original, never apart even the clutch ! Block , pan, bell housing and all accessories Black. Cylinder head silver. ( I kept this car for 30 years )

It looks like a windshield wiper arm from something that uses a two pivot sweep . Somebody out there needs it badly. But who ?

Mike is correct. A problem occurred often enough with these pivots in that the outer threads would become loose and the bushing would turn in the knuckle support.It is quite possible that an oversize outside diameter bushing was available to "save" an otherwise worn out knuckle support. Your second bushing could be one of these. If your original bushing was good on the outside, a measurement would confirm where your problem lies.

They are supposed to be tight. I think if you heat the knuckle support and try your impact wrench again it may come out all right. Then, with the knuckle support hot and the bushing fresh out of your home freezer or chilled with dry ice, run it back in with the impact wrench

It is, as the illustration proves , the reinforcement for the timing cover however, covers with scalloped edges do not use this.

There is only one rubber bushing in the shift linkage. Your failure to get reverse will not be because of this. Refer again to my earlier post and tighten the adjustment on the lower rod which allows the transmission to select low and reverse.

I think a sleeve will be the answer but just as a final straw to grasp, maybe the score in the cylinder wall is below the travel of the bottom ring at bottom dead center. If so, it will cause you no problems. 100 to 1 against, but worth a look. Also worth a look is at the other pistons. You have a "smoking gun" for warranty if any of them have the wrong circlips.

There are two different seals. One is virtually the same as the original, while the other is more like a modern seal with a flat flange, Both should work if the input flange is not worn. Before blaming the seal itself, check that it is not leaking around the splines behind the pinion nut and also check that the differential vent (this doubles as the bolt holding the brake fitting in place) is not plugged which will allow pressure to build up in the housing. If your input flange is worn, a speedi sleeve can be installed over the worn area. D25s use a spicer joint unlike the USA built cars... in case you were thinking of replacing the input flange.

A friend used a disc from an industrial machine with its mechanical caliper on the rear axle input shaft of his 31 Dodge. I am sorry I cannot be more specific as to what it actually is.

Rocker molding clips for sure.... possibly 49 to 52 Plymouth but be careful there are lots of subtle variations.

Overdrive is a great option.. The R10..... 52 to 56 would be my choice. 30 % speed reduction, a bolt in and nice driveability , kick down etc. although the one originally used in a 40 Chrysler will do the job too.

Motors Manual have all the bearing specs. The 35 to 51 series should be around any shop with a grey haired technician. If not, I will dig them out for you. I do not recollect any Plymouth six block needing an align bore. The rods, however should be checked and resized if needed.

I am not sure I should reply ..... but here goes. A friend of mine and I went into a bar and lo and behold here is one of our former students. We invite him to join us for a short beer and he says he is going to try his luck in Australia. I say, " You need to apply for a Visa to get into Australia " He says , " No problem, I have MasterCard" dp

His dad might do well to buy the kid a personality transplant. Oh well......

The bore in the 201 is 3 1/8 and it can be bored as much as .125 although .o60 was usually considered maximum. The crankshaft bearings are smaller than the 217 230. The 201engine was last used in the 41 models.

I remember buying one for a Plymouth . It was under a dollar back in 1959 as I recall. A regular blank may have been 15 cents.

Your engine started out with a 3 3/8 bore and a 4 1/2 inch stroke. It is a 241 but not to be confused with the 241 used in 35 6 &7 . The Spitfire, with or without the logo on the head has a 3 7/16 bore for 251 cubic inches. Bore yours .060 over and you will have 3 7/16

You may never know why that piston failed BUT one wise adage is : "Machinery has a LONG memory for abuse ." so this problem may date back many miles. All you can do now is to make sure everything in that bore is on spec. Everything. and don't overlook the possibility that a leaky fuel pump can cause troubles in #s 1 and 2 by washing away lubrication.

Nothing Rube Goldberg about the Intake Manifold. That is a very rare (and much sought after) 55 to 59 two barrel intake. I wonder why the single barrel carb was adapted to it rather than using a stock manifold. Looks like Fenton exhaust .