dpollo

You may contact me. I can see SS Island from where I sit. start with a personal message on this forum.

surprised your 53 has a vacuum motor. My 52 has a 2 speed electric. Stock. I may have a vacuum motor from a 50. We are not very far away. the vacuum motor assembly part number is 1274128

If the oil filter is fastened to the engine as it should be, there is no need for a flexible hose. The pressure gauge on the dash should be connected to the double fitting nearest the block, which has a smaller orifice than the outer port which is the line to the inlet of the filter. The flexible hose you cut must therefore be the return line . Some Chryslers used a flexible line all the way to the gauge but most used a short flexible link between the engine and the firewall. It fastened to the inner port on the double fitting or in some cases to a single behind the starter.

In the mid sixties I tried without success to get the lower stud which a new but faulty shock had broken. I think you will have to get used ones.

I had one come into my shop which had but 4 cylinders. Did not run so well with 2 dead holes.

Solid side of the piston is the thrust side,...... nearest the camshaft.

I agree with DodgeB4Ya. Sticky valves. Old fuel and lack of running can make for sticky valves. Try pouring some light oil, like ATF down the carb while the engine is running. Let it stall or shut it off and then let it sit for awhile. Removing the tappet covers will reveal which valves are not returning to the closed position but that may not be necessary with some top lube. Be prepared for smoke !

a floor shift cover will bolt on.

New Replacement engines were sold through Chrysler Parts without serial numbers. These were new, not remanufactured units. The very few that I have encountered were 251s.

When I was a teenager, I spent many hours standing on my head detailing and painting several engines which would have benefitted from some internal work as well. Amazing how much better they ran ! In addition, there is that tang of burned paint and blow-by accented by whiffs of gasoline. I might have used it as an aftershave but somehow the young ladies I dated did not much like it.

Pewter Gray metallic is, as I recollect, a 77 Dodge Aspen color. It is close enough to aluminum so I did not lose any points in a POC judged meet. I applied it directly over bare cast iron. It has stood up well since 1983 and 50 000 miles of use. Not sure if any products today are as good as Centari.

Chrysler "52"

Merle has it right. The exhaust system is full of unburned oil. It can take up to 10 miles of driving to burn this off. The solution would be to remove the muffler and wash it out. The oil coating the header pipe will burn off more quickly due to higher heat.

A closer look at your picture reveals several things. It is a Chrysler Method rebuilt, The blue color was typical. It has the O ring groove at the back of the oil gallery for the Hydrive option. The return passage is there too. It has had a truck front sump oil pan installed. The rear sump dipstick tube is still in place. not a sign of a mechanic who cares It does not have the full flow filter so is intended for use in Canadian Plymouth or Dodge and with a 3 7/16 bore that would suggest 55 up. The temperature gauge opening is not typical of 57-59 nor is the plate behind the timing cover. I think this engine, whatever its merits, has had what might be called a chequered past. On the up side, Chrysler Method rebuilds often used new crankshafts some of which were 010.to start with.

The rebuilder's tag is stamped O instead of C C 14 is 1937 but I am not sure about CR 14

WPC Newa ( newsletter of the WPC Club ) did a feature on the 51 Dodge within the last year. Volume 7 #2 Oct-Nov 2016. It reprints an article, with pictures from August '51 Motorama entitled DODGE MOTOR TRIAL "a safe sane stylish car"

Yes, it will work but as noted above there is an extra water passage in the block which can be easily plugged in one of two ways. Tap the hole 9/16 NF and make a threaded plug from a wheel bolt of the same size.... cut and cross-cut a screwdriver slot in the bolt stub. Or : remove the water pump and make up a gasket which blocks the hole behind the pump.

The 54 was made longer by extending the bumpers and headlight rims. In 54, the Powerflite and Power steering were offered for the first time although you could still get Hydrive and Overdrive. I had a 54 Belvedere sedan with Powerflite and Power steering. A very nice car which I should have kept. I also had a 54 Mayfair Dodge 2dr ht which I put a small block Chev into but that is another story.

WD 40 works well on the rubber. It makes it possible to attach the pedal with a light bump from a fist or better still, a rubber hammer.

I had a 55 Plymouth, nice car, (75000 miles, 1970) the timing chain skipped a tooth while starting the engine. It ran smoothly but had absolutely no power. A timing light revealed the problem. In a pinch, you could advance the timing and run some distance but my car decided to act up right in my driveway. In over 50 years I have encountered a skipped chain on our favorite flatheads only twice. Usually you can hear the chain hitting the cover at idle, long before a tooth is skipped.

Looks about right to me. It is a certainty the engine has been there for a long while. At some point the cylinder head has been off * but no one has been into the timing chest. Nice to see the heat shield is still in place over the fuel pump. * later model gasket with extra passage not needed on your engine

It looks worthy of a good paint job, but I really like the rear bumper, someone really did a nice job on it.

Just a stray thought and not to suggest your car was once a taxicab but extra lighting might have been available and found its way into your car through the accessory catalogues of the era.

With spark plugs in, ignition coil unplugged and all bolts loose, crank it over with the starter.

Wayne Brandon, The Plymouth Doctor. Or find a GOOD sheet metal shop who can bend them up for you.