dpollo

There are a number of different parts but they are interchangeable as complete units.

I am betting against any cracks in the block. Follow the advice above .

You even remembered to drive on the Left hand side of the road after passing through the peace arch as I recall.

You will find it the same up to 1956.

Well then, you never know until you try.

To install an R10 Overdrive in a light truck, you must have the complete unit with its three speed gearbox ( 52 to56). A 3/4 inch adapter plate must be made for the front of the trans and the column shift linkage must be significantly reworked. Also the driveshaft must be shortened. However US built trucks may differ from my Canadian model. Their transmissions were not all the same. In any case, I have found my installation to be very satisfactory. The most challenging aspect was to make the parking brake work. The R10 J as found in 57 to 59 cars has a rather long input shaft which makes it unsuitable for some applications. Dodge B4YA gives the best advice, above. Elsewhere on this forum is a thread discussing truck transmission choices.

I hope your neighbors were away from home. (or like mine who just moved away) Those twin trumpets can be pretty impressive ! Seriously though, a bit of cotton waste stuffed into each horn's trumpet will make testing more tolerable noise-wise.

Also, the Fluid Drive unit, just like the flywheel on a regular drive goes on in one position only. Mark it with a paint marker before disassembly. What I have done is to place the crankshaft in the TDC position according to the timing marks, then put a paint mark on the flywheel or the Fluid Drive at the six o clock position. This works especially well when swapping an engine but leaving the fluid drive in place.

Smart fellah the old Dodge b4ya.

That transmission was found in Canadian trucks from 48 onward, using a column shift. The cover, which operates as a post and selector can be replaced with the cover of three speed light trucks 39 to 47 giving you a floor shift. This held true up to 57 around here, but I know US models are different.

You can remove the lower bell housing cover and the fluid drive unit without removing the bell housing from the car, I have done so on a 49 Desoto.It should then be possible to change the rear seal. I just looked at a FD bell housing and it does not crowd in on the crankshaft flange or the seal. Sometimes it is necessary to remove mounting studs for the transmission to get the bottom cover off the bell housing. It is a bit tight under the crossmember.

Some years ago I bought a purportedly new military engine in its crate. I told the vendor that I would bring a head gasket and a torque wrench. If inspection after removing the head proved the engine was as claimed, I would pay his price. If not, I would reassemble it with a new gasket and go away. It was new .....but certainly the cost of the gasket was good insurance for me.

all of the above plus through the fuel pump opening. These blocks are not prone to crack like the competition back in the day. The most serious, I encountered only once was alongside a valve guide. non repairable.

The Hudson looks close except for the number of "frost" plugs and the heater pipe on the cylinder head. My money (canadian dollars) is on Pontiac

If you were running straight tap water, these leaks would probably "take up" or stop within a few days. Antifreeze solutions will make their escape more readily than water and will persist. If it were mine, I would run straight water for a week or two then refill with the antifreeze solution.

Sounds like the Vacamatic has troubles with , as mentioned above, a leaky diaphragm or a vacuum leak somewhere. First thing to do is put a vacuum gauge on the engine to monitor what is going on. If there is a leak then vacuum will be abnormally low. If the readings fluctuate while the trans is attempting a shift then a closer look at the transmission vacuum unit is called for. Mechanically, these transmissions are almost bullet proof.

Mike 36 is absolutely correct, there is no connection to the .dimmer switch

Recently I have been wondering if it is possible to put a 50 dash into a 51 body which is wider across the windshield and hood. as mentioned earlier the doors are different too in that the fender line is less pronounced on the 51. Since I have both a 51 body and a 50 dash I am going to try it and see how it fits. My thoughts are that it probably will with a minimum of modification. in my opinion, the new for 51 dash was not as attractive as the 50's.

The nine inch Ford should take all the power a 318 can provide, likely has the right bolt circle for the wheels and will have the emergency brake. The differential pictured could work well under your Coronet but it will have no provision for an e-brake and it uses the ball and trunnion u-joint which can be costly to service. Depending on the gear ratio, there are members on this forum who may be able to use it as the gear set fits light trucks too.

Heaters and all items considered "options" were dealer installed. Even through the early 50s.

40 to 47 trucks. it is located directly above the speedometer. 39 trucks did not have this feature.

Good advice from busy coupe. Finger tight is about right after his procedure but of course the cotter pin must be inserted.

I would be inclined to rebuild a 230 for your 41 or even a 217 should your present 201 engine need a lot of work. By all means run it up and check it out. But : Both these later engines are bolt for bolt swaps and offer several advantages. The crankshafts have much more bearing area and both put out more power. Pistons and bearings are more readily available. While the 201 may be adequate, either of the newer engines would serve your needs better.

If my tools leave the shop I make it a habit to go with them. That is usually sufficient to discourage any borrowing. ........ a most regrettable situation for Desoto 39.

WD 40 really helps and if you lock the shaft that goes through the floor with a vice grip it makes it a whole lot easier to install the pedal. Nice thing about WD 40 is that it will not hurt the rubber and dries up fairly quickly.