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Showing results for tags 'differential'.
Found 5 results
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I installed a 4sp OD in my '37 using one of the aok adapter plates. Very few modifications, but it worked like a charm otherwise! Now I'm without my emergency brake though. I had a thought that if I could remove the drum from my 3 speed and mount it at the rear axle I could rig up a mount for the brake shoe band and be back in business. I got as far as removing the rear pinion seal as the collar on the drum where the seal mates is smaller than the one on the original rear flange that I removed. I think if I can get the right oil seal in place I can figure out the rest. I believe the seal actually holds in the bearing too, so I am a little concerned that the one I get from the parts store will not be robust enough. Has anyone successfully made this modification? Any help would be appreciated.
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Oil Pan Gasket Question... What is the best sealant to use when installing cork gaskets? I've read other posts that clearly explain how to arrange the side and end gaskets on the oil pan, but what sealant product is best used with cork gaskets for holding the oil pan gaskets onto the pan as the bolts are torqued? Permatex makes red, black, blue etc. kinds of gasket makers in tubes along with a whole bunch of other products. And what is best applied to the block side of the oil pan gasket? I've heard that some people use vaseline. Differential Gasket Question... Also, I carefully cut out a new gasket for the differential and I have similar questions regarding it. Can I use the same sealants as are used on the oil pan?
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New to this stuff: I just got a 56 Truck and I want replace the stock 3 speed flathead 6 with a 360 Mopar and overdrive. Will I have to change the differential? What else will I have to change? I am trying to estimate the total cost to do this. thank you for your help
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I've read and learned a lot from the various threads, but have a few direct questions needing expert opinions: I have a 52 B3B with a 218. 1) Is there a sure way to tell the specs on my rear gears without opening it up? It tops out about 45 mph. Can I trust that it's a 4.11, 8.75 inch with 10 splines? 2) If not, can I find out everything I need to know just by removing the cover? I have a leak, so I have some investigating anyway. 3) Is diameter, ratio and number of splines all the info I need to find a replacement ring and pinion that will work? Do I also need to know the shaft length and is that something I can find without removing the pinion gear? 4) Does anybody have a listing or reference that would help me identify what model of vehicle would be interchangeable but have a lower gear ratio in the 3.73 to 3.9 range (or could I go lower if I upgraded to a 230 with a bit more power?) 5) Is there a vendor that has been proven a helpful source for this type of modification? Thanks much - - Bob
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I've got an all-original 1/2 ton 4:10 rear end with new brakes and no major leaks, but noticed some clunking when going between forward and reverse. Sometimes when starting from a stop in first, there's a "ping" from the rear as the truck starts moving. When I had the filler plug off last, I looked in there with a flash light, while moving the companion flange back and forth (driveshaft removed). I could see the ring and pinion clearly. There was quite some free play back and forth with the flange, like a few degrees of rotation, but the ring and pinion were engaged good with no visible excessive backlash between the teeth. The teeth wear pattern looked excellent. The axle nuts at the wheels are tight, and the keyways and pins are tight...what else could be loose? I'd be hard pressed to believe its the axle splines. Do the diferential side and pinion gears ever wear out? I've never spun a wheel while I've had this truck, but the fluid has gotten low here and there with the former leaky pinion seal. Looking at the shop manual, taking the differential case apart looks like a b*tch...it says to heat it with a torch and use a special tool to unscrew the case cap. Ugh...
