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Found 3 results

  1. I couldn't understand why it was hard to install this bushing. So I took it out, thought I may have cross-threaded it cleaned the threads even ground off some of the first two threads. re-installed and it was real hard to turn. Took a break and now it can't get out. Bent the end of a one foot pry bar that I was using with a steel pipe and I tried to remove it with heat and a impact wrench.
  2. Removed my master cylinder today. Brake pedal bushing looks good and is nice and snug. A bit of slop and play on my clutch pedal bushing. Master cylinder pedal post shaft is shiny and clean like new on both sides . Plymouth Passenger Car OEM parts manual shows the clutch pedal bushing to be a part " #871998 @ .8155 O.D. - S (steel) hand push fit " When I look at what's left of the existing clutch pedal bushing, I see what's left of the dimple pattern and the bushing looks to be made of copper or bronze....pretty much a match (material wise) for the bushing I see in the brake pedal ,.. in respect to eyeballing them both. Looking at my options in getting the new bushing machined and wondering now about copper/brass/steel ?? I don't expect the car's feeling's would be terrible hurt if the wrong material was used but on one hand it would be nice to use the strongest material possible just for the life of the part and the repair. I wasn't expecting to see steel listed for the clutch bushing, however it would also make sense to me that the clutch pedal operates under more load than the brake pedal does...course there are also different hardness's of steel, etc...and no sense in installing a bushing that's gonna promote wear on the pedal shaft itself,...I've read here where those aren't always readily available, and if so - they aren't cheap... McMaster Carr has a copper/iron mix high strength bushing that has a ( 3/4" I.d. , 7/8" o.d. x 1 1/4 " long ) which by my measurements should machine down to the proper size...(I expect anything we get machined up will have to have the lubrication hole drilled in it as the hole needs to be off centered in the bushing). I like the idea of the softer copper for the bushing, but if it's gonna wear prematurely I'd rather go with steel or something a bit harder... If it's a matter of the bushing lasting 20 yrs in copper and 30 yrs in steel, etc...I believe I would deem it a mute point and just use a copper bushing..but I don't have the experience to do more than just guess about it all.. Any help, suggestions, and/or experiences are appreciated... Thanks Steve
  3. I was putting my clutch together last week and decided I needed to do something about the wobbly pedals. My clutch fork was well worn, worse than the bushings (isn't it supposed to be the other way around?) I was also missing a bushing in the bellhousing where the clutch fork right end is supported. I looked at the previous thread postings on here about replacing the pedal bushings, where to get them, etc., and all the threads did not seem to have a final answer about where to find these, which are approx. 3/4" I.D. and 13/16" O.D. I looked at VPW's online catalog and saw they had some clutch fork flange bushings, and also NOS clutch forks. Their NOS Power Wagon clutch fork, part # 561537, $50, matched my fork by the number stamped on it. The NOS fork required a little cleanup but greatly improved the fit of the pedals compared to the old! They also sell NOS clutch fork bushings: Part #'s CC306770 and 50519. I used them for the bellhousing but could also be adapted for the brake pedal if needed - you might have to order two kits. One of the bushings even has the trademark dimpled surface on the inside. These bushings are made of flat material and then formed round, as you can see in the pics, just like the original. Maybe that's why you can't find anybody making bushings today with these specs.
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