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About robt

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Job Rated era trucks
  • My Project Cars
    1947 WFX-32 1 1/2 ton truck
    1955 plymouth savoy
    1929 chrysler 65 roadster

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Love old mopar's
  • Occupation
    Tool and die maker


  • Location
    kingsley pa
  • Interests

Recent Profile Visitors

727 profile views
  1. I have a 1955 c series with overdrive (just rebuilt). I don't have the original dash mounted engagement handle and cable. I have one out of a 55 ply. And have seen the 55 dodge car lever which is different than the plymouth. I plan to use the plymouth handle but just curious what the truck handle looked like. Also, did the OD equipped trucks have a badge as the cars did? Thanks Rob
  2. I've had good success with sand blasting and spraying on 2 coats of magnet paints chassis saver and then top coating it (within 24 hours) with any good quality paint. I did a car trailer this way and top coated with rustoleum. 4 Pennsylvania winters later (stored outside) still holding up well. I did my 47 WFX32 the same way and plan on painting my 55 c series the same way. Rob
  3. I recently purchased a 55 c series truck and was told the engine was blown (260 poly). I did get a new full gasket set with it along with a box that contained a bunch of the engines bolts and two connecting rods. Its clear someone has had the heads and pan off. I will disassemble and check it out but want to consider my other options. I have a good 265 flathead that I could put in it and may go that direction but would prefer to keep it a v8. Will the 318 poly bolt in without a lot of modifications? I read somewhere that they changed the crank flange in 1962. I'm not sure if that is true or not. I would like to maintain the original bell housing and overdrive trans. If I opt to go the flathead route, will the bell housing be drilled for both the V-8 and the flathead? Thanks Rob
  4. Looking back ..I should have painted my name and address on the outside of the plywood box that I made and shipped it in. If someone opens the box they will find a paper with my name and phone number. They will need a screw gun to open it though. UPS...communication sucks! I tried to get in touch with my local branch to go and view there lost and found...you can't even get them on the phone. The "investigation team" wouldn't even call me. I called the 800 number twice a day for 10 days...no luck... I had read that they auction off undeliverable packages..I don't know if it is true or not. I tried to find out when and where they do this...and again....they wouldn't deny or confirm this. I'm just hoping that by some luck someone somewhere opens it and contacts me. I keep scouring the web to find another that isn't priced out of my budget. Rob
  5. I just shipped my R10G1 overdrive to George Asche for a rebuild. And UPS lost it! I filed a claim and have hoped for someone to find it...no luck! I was sick with grief for a week over it. I've come to terms with I'm never going to see it again. I didn't opt for additional insurance(big mistake) They gave me $100 for my loss. I will keep looking for a decent core at a reasonable price but want to look at other options as well. In any case I've tried to read through the archives to find other options. I'm planning on putting it behind my 265 into a 29 Chrysler roadster. The 883 is an option but I prefer to go with an earlier transmission. I have 2 ford and 1 Studebaker Overdrives. I'm sure someone has went this route....just wondering what the issues were? I know I'll have to deal with the parking brake, spline on the clutch, pilot bushing, and adapter plate. I haven't decided on a rear yet so I'll deal with u-joint and drive shaft changes also. Thanks for any Help Rob from PA
  6. I have 2 harbor freight units. they work ok with some fiddling. Ended up buying a quality nozzle and dead-man valve at a car show. works much better. I use the black beauty sand which has no silica. I still use a mask and a fabric hood. I have a 4 cylinder compressor so air is not an issue. I have also used one of the dustless blasters. They work well but you can have issues with them as well. Rob
  7. I thought I'd share my 265 project since I've spent countless hours reading this forum. I hope I can attach a link to the youtube video. The block is a (T118) 237 from a 1947 dodge 1.5 ton truck. I had to relieve (grind)the block just a small amount to create clearance for the 265 rods. I had a later 251 block to use as an example. The turned crank and reconditioned rods were from George Asche as were the matched set of carbs, cam, and split exhaust. The block had the deck machined and was bored .060 over. New valve guides and cam bearings were installed. The bearings, pistons and rings were from Terrel machine in Texas. The Manely valves were from ebay from a gentleman in Finland. I built the Accel plug wires from a universal set. The Edmunds custom aluminum intake was a craigslist find. The cam is the .380 lift with 242 degree duration that has been mention on the forum from AoK. Valve springs are from VPW. I'm starting with a 12 volt battery currently, although I plan on keeping 6 volt. Currently, I don't own a 6 v battery that has enough cranking power. There are several little things that are not completed to the way I want them, but I wanted to get it running. throttle linkage, fuel and oil lines, etc. I do have one issue. The front main seal drips one drop every 3 minutes but if you rev it, it throws 3 or 4 drops of oil as it decelerates. I'm running 10w30 with a zinc additive. Possibly 30 wt oil help this? Any suggestions or if anyone has seen this before, I'd love to hear from you. I bought a 1929 Chrysler roadster project that hopefully will be the new home for the 265. I'll probably do a compression test at some point just as a baseline. All and All I very happy with the outcome. Thanks for looking and for all the information. If the video doesn't attach , I'll work on attaching it. Rob
  8. Looks to be a fun truck. You'll certainly turn some heads. If I get a chance next weekend, I'll get a few pics of the 2 speed rear you requested. I have 3 of them, a 47 a 49 and a 51. If you were close to PA I'd make you a good deal on a rear. Not that you would probably ever need it. Your wheels look really nice. I really like the short wheel base with that bed. You'll have to run your engine numbers to see what you have. I bought 2 trucks ( 1.5 toners) that had different engines transplanted. Its always fun finding out that the 251 you just bought turns out to be a 265. Have fun with it!
  9. I have spent several hours of reading threads and searching the web on voltage regulators. If my question is redundant I apologize. I have a GGW 6001C (40 amp 8 volt shunt) generator out of a 1951 dodge fire truck. It appears to be in very good condition compared to the other dozen or so generators that I have. I planned to use it on my 265 build, but after switching my lower pulley to a damper(with narrow belt) I had to switch the pulley on the generator. The original wide belt pulley was about 4.5" OD the narrow belt pulleys that I have are about 3.5" OD. I read in a past thread that the last letter in the gen # relates to the pulley diameter. I'm understand that because I'm going to a smaller pulley the generator will turn more rpm's. Will that be an issue? Will the regulator deal with extra output ? My next issue is the regulator. I found some Autolite data showing the proper regulator for GGw-6001 A,B,D, and J to be # VRP 6004A and GGw-6001 J and K to be #VBE 6001A. I could find nothing on the "C" which I believe is the pulley diameter. Will either of these regulators work? How specific does the regulator need to be to the generator? There appears to be about a dozen different voltage regulators listed between 1947 to 1955. Could I use any of these regulators as long as the are rated for my desired positive ground and are rated for more amps than my generator? Lastly, are there issues with buying a NOS or used one off ebay or should I be looking at buying a newer replacement type regulator? It would be easier to go to the one wire alternator either 6 or 12 volt but I don't want to do that because I want all the wiring in its original configuration. Thanks Rob
  10. Maok, Please keep up with progress on your build. I recently purchased a 29 Chrysler 65 roadster project. With it I got 2 engines. 1-65 series and one 75 series engine. the 75 series has the head off and has been bored .030. The rods with new pistons and rings attached are all bagged and ready to install. I plan on pulling the pan to confirm the mains are done. I will probably finish the rebuild and sell the engine as I plan on using a later 265 engine. In any case I'm very interested in you progress. Thanks Rob
  11. robt

    265 Dampner

    I was digging through a shelf of parts today and found damper that looks like the small one pictured. I didn't know I had it. It must have come off the car engine that I tore apart. in any case I'm going to clean it up and use it on my build. There is a layer of internal rubber that I could see. It appears to be in decent condition. I'm not going to soak it so as not to mess up the rubber. Is that rubber replaceable if you separate it? Only reason I ask is because I know how other 68 year old rubber parts have deteriorated. After reading dodgeb4yas post on the damper engine being a little smoother, I think I'd probably regret not using it knowing that I could have. Rob
  12. Great project. I like it! Glad to see you are giving the old flathead a little tlc and keeping it in place. Rob
  13. robt

    265 Dampner

    I've bought 6 of the 25" engines in the past few years. Two of which were 265"s and none of them had a dampener. five of them were from 1.5 or larger truck engines. The one Chrysler car engine that had been transplanted into a big truck didn't have one either. I guess it could have had one but was removed When transplanted into the truck. There was a thread several months ago on this topic. After reading it, I'm not planning on a dampener on the 265 that is going into my Chrysler roadster. Someone had mentioned that the damper may be more important on the engines with offset connecting rods if I remember correctly. I don't know if that theory is true or not. The one 265 that I bought came from a truck I remember seeing daily as kid. The gentleman that owned it hauled pallets of stone every day. The truck would be wound up pretty good when he approached a hill. It was this guys livelihood but he never babied it. That truck was 30 years old at the time. I also have a truck that hauled coal from 1947 to 1972. I have the weigh slips where it routinely hauled 10.000 lbs of coal. This truck had the 237 engine with no dampener but did have a governor. I think if I had a dampener and room was not a concern then I would use it. But in my case, I'm mating a 265 (bored .060,dual carbs dual exhaust,and cam) to a R10 OD and 3.90 gears. I think I should have plenty of torque to push a 2700 lbs roadster at rpms that I don't have to worry about a dampener. I would love to hear first hand from those who have driven vehicles with 265 or a 251 that compare any differences between engines with and without a dampener. Rob
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