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About rcb

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Southern Indiana
  • My Project Cars
    65 Fury III 4dr Hardtop, looking for DeSoto Suburban

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  • Biography
    Long time mopar guy just discovering pre60s mopars
  • Occupation
    Graphic Artist


  • Location
    So Central Indiana
  • Interests
    Faith, Cars, Planes, Tractors

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  1. I was reading a little while back that Plymouths (and I would presume all) could be ordered with 19.5" wheels and special suspension. (pre war). Anyone have their car set up like that?
  2. Man, sounds like NC is a tough state. Destroying a title to prevent out of state sale is funny because many states it wouldn't matter anyhow and I can apply for a lost title. Only a stolen vehicle will get you in trouble (as it should). Might be worth going to a lawyer in your locality. But others from NC would be the best knowledge. Indiana used to be a real pain, but several years ago they updated their lost title procedure. We now have a few different ways to get titles based on value. I've only used it once and it worked but that doesn't do a thing for you in NC. Often lawyers can guide the process through and the state has reassurance that it's a BAR approved professional doing the foot work so to speak.
  3. Ha! It's good to have an editor! I remember reading my dad's Chilton manuals when I was young (don't ask me... I liked cars and seemed like interesting reading) and they were more like generalized knowledge. At lot their diagnostic procedures were sound and they did have good sections on using common tools, reading spark plugs and similar things.
  4. Chilton and a even some other brand factory manuals have a tendency to have entries like: Transmission Service: 1. Disconnect Battery 2. Remove Transmission 3. Service Transmission 4. Reinstall Transmission It always makes me laugh. Of course Factory manuals like that usually indicate there are separate service books for each component.
  5. They didn't consider that the vault would be breached. They could have sunk it in a huge vat of cosmoline but cleaning it would have been a nightmare. Even an above ground vault would have been cool and a visual reminder.
  6. Have you had someone true the wheels? if they are spin balancing and the drop the shield they may not even notice. I've had bent rims before... just a touch off, but you could definitely tell it at speed. However, the wheel balanced just fine. Once you got fast enough it would smooth out.
  7. It could be any recommendation above. Next time you run it and it dies, carefully touch the coil (only briefly). If it's burning hot, then it may be your coil. Beyond that, you might double check your float adjustment in your carb. Also, not sure on these carbs but on my tractor carbs there is brass mesh where the line runs into the carb. Sometimes those collapse and cause a restriction so you can basically run it dry but if you let it sit, it will slowly refill the bowl. So restarting shortly after it dies gets your a few minutes, but if you let it sit for multiple hours it would run for several minutes before running dry. It's the only things I can think of... I'm sure you've tried those, but I figured I'd mention it.
  8. I would wax it. It will slow continued deterioration. While I can appreciate patina, I personally am not a "patina" guy. But if you aren't careful that patina will keep growing. But maybe that's the goal. I'd use the spray on wax. It's not super shiny and applies pretty quick.
  9. My wife's grandfather was a long time foundry guy. They made lots of large cast blocks, including for cummins. He's told me before they would let the blocks sit a month or so outside before delivery to season. He told me before why, but I don't recall now. I'll have to ask him again.
  10. I agree. It is pretty nice. You may loose on it if someone else has to do the work. I'd at least drop a replacement motor in, even if it's not rebuilt. You'll lose less.
  11. And having someone you trust to do the work if you don't do it yourself. Not sure how fast you want to go, but if you just want motive power you'll be ahead dollar wise to replace/warm up the original I would think. But to your actual question, lots of people do the swap with varying degree of professionalism. The most common I've witnessed is yank everything and drop the new motor/tranny in and fab mounts real time. I'm not intimately familiar with these but on others they've relocated the steering box to the outside of the framerail (maybe they are already there?) or put in a front clip and used rack and pinion. And if you don't have a donor 360, I personally would lean towards a 318 that's internally balanced.
  12. I see. I'll have to wait until I get home to dig the link back up. The article was mainly concerned with swapping input shafts between a fluid drive and non fluid drive if I recall. I had been looking up rebuild tips/tricks for flat 6's when I came across it. Of course this is all daydreaming at this point, but I was also looking up how much one of the 251s could be warmed up reliably. Everyone seems to have different opinions of what "power" is. Then I got to thinking about the 4.0 I've had in several Jeeps. To me they are my favorite engine built in the last 20 years. Some people say they are dogs too, but I love them and find them to be plenty strong, even in a Cherkoee that I towed with all the time. The one in our wrangler is great. I've towed quite a lot with it too, even over mountains. The flat 6 is pretty close to them in output so it's put it in a better frame of mind for me. sorry, getting off topic.
  13. I was reading an article that mentioned that fluid drive equipped mopars can have oil pressure issues. I think they were inferring that the fluid drive taps the oil system. I thought that the fluid drive was its own system. Can anyone educated me? I'm still on the search so I don't have one yet, but all the desoto suburbans I've seen are equipped with fluid drive. I imagine I'll be going through the engine on anyone I might wind up with but was curious if that was the case.
  14. I probably would pull it too. It'd drive me crazy just knowing its there. The broken drill bit makes me cringe. Like you were saying, I'd wager welding a nut on might be the only way... depending how far below the deck it is.
  15. Look good. I'm battling popped bondo on my Fury. Sheet metal is going back in, but this is a driver so I'm not too fussed. Truck looks good!
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