rallyace

We will be there. Looking forward to seeing everyone again.

Be careful when milling your head as the valve will stand proud from the head and the valve will lift a tiny bit more than .375" at higher revs. I would allow for the amount the valve stands proud plus the lift plus at least .125" just to be safe.

I bought a double flaring kit from NAPA about 10 years ago. I think I paid about $60 for it and I see it is now $96. It was well worth the price.

You should be able to match it up with fittings from NAPA. Our local NAPA lets me sort through that stuff and get what I need to make things work.

High collar lock washers. They are used under socket head bolts and fit the rod bolts perfectly. As has been mentioned they are available at McMaster Carr.

If you have the Pioneer bolts, the sealant on the bolts will work although I will admit that I polished the sealant off and used a high quality pipe dope on the threads (Rectorseal #5). Pioneer bolts do have a rolled thread.

Rarely use the stuff but carry a can with me on trips. It is a good diagnostic tool for isolating a fuel or ignition problem while parked on the side of the road and is excellent for finding a vacuum leak. Never spray it directly into the carburetor or nasty things will happen. It will wash oil off the cylinder walls and it will cause a very fast flame front and very high combustion pressures, especially if there is residual fuel in the cylinder. A quick spray at the air cleaner is usually all you need.

Now I know where to go to borrow a tool. I am just down the road in B'ville.

Advance means earlier in the cycle, retard means later in the cycle.

A P10 motor would be 201 cubic inches. They had standard overbores and I think the max was 0.060" which would not add much to the displacement.

Looking at the back of your panel, the top two circles are the illumination. The bottom left is the high beam indicator and the bottom right is the turn signal indicator. Now, one thing to understand, new #535 flasher units are electronic operation. They work on positive ground system but the flasher output for the indicator lamp has a diode in the circuit and it will not illuminate the indicator on a positive ground system.

Generally our long trips involve a few cars so we divvy up the extra parts so we don't end up with 4 generators and no distributors or fan belts. We all carry a small tool set with enough tools to fix the normal stuff on the road along with a couple of quarts of oil and coolant solution. I bring our 12 volt charge pack for power for the GPS and can do an emergency jump start if needed. Special tools are assigned among the group. My special tool is a small floor jack and wood blocks to make changing a tire easier. Another brings a small empty gas can (just in case) and someone will bring a small air compressor. So far the only thing we have not been able to fix on a trip is a noisy transmission.

My list, in order of priority includes a credit card, a spare credit card, phone number for Haggerty roadside, AAA card, and a bunch of tools and stuff.

I always use a hacksaw to cut radiator hoses. It is much safer than using a utility knife.

You can purchase individual 12" feeler gauges in whatever thickness you want from McMaster Carr. They are only a couple of bucks each.

I am having a bit of difficulty understanding the dimensions of your existing stud. The head and knurl are both 0.9"? If you are calling the knurl the section between the head and the thread, they are not both the same dimension in the photo.

I had a local brake shop that does mainly commercial vehicle and bus brakes reline mine. I also had them turn the drums. The price was very fair. They do not radius them anymore due to environmental issues with the brake dust, but they matched up extremely well. I will know in the spring how good a job they did as I will be doing the full brake replacement work when my car comes out of its winter hibernation.

They walk as a result of wheel flexing. The wheel flexing is normal. I had metal valve stems installed when I last put tires on my 51 Cranbrook. You can also take a short piece of air hose or fuel line that will fit over the valve stem and it will prevent the wheel cover from cutting into the valve stem, but it won't stop the wheel cover from walking. I have heard some folks have had some success in stopping the movement by placing a bead of adhesive caulk on the wheels where the wheel cover clamps contact the wheel and then installing the wheel cover.

You were close with the count of 500. I think it is 25 and you have to work to find them all.

The first things that I would check are timing, points, and vacuum advance.

I found the same thing at our local NAPA. I asked and was told that it is a common hose used on smaller farm tractors. I guess it is good to live in a village surrounded by farms.

When reassembling the carb, you will want to set the float about 3/32" lower than the spec. New fuels, especially ethanol enhanced fuels, are less dense than the gasoline available when these carbs were built and the float will not sufficient force to the needle to fully shut off the fuel inlet. The float has to be set lower to compensate for this. One more thing, the two check balls are not the same size. The smaller one is for the accelerator pump check valve.

In NY, directional signals are not an inspection item for 1952 and older cars and if it is installed it cannot be cause for a rejection. NYS Motor Vehicle Inspection Regulation CR 79.21 pages 42 and 43.

The bouncing comes from either binding of the cable or one of the magnets inside the speedo unit either losing its magnetism or is missing. More often than not, it is in the speedo cable. You are dealing with a 75+ year old part here and it will need a little TLC to get it working properly. If you used a grease, your best solution is to remove the drive inner cable and thoroughly clean it and lube it with a graphite lube. You can also use a very light oil like 3 in 1, but beware, it will very likely loosen any old lube in the sheath and your problem will probably return. Sometimes it is easiest to remove the entire cable assembly and thoroughly clean out all of the old lube that is in it, relube it and reinstall it. Grease, as was mentioned before, it is too thick and will cause bouncing. The best lube is a graphite lube. Messy but it works the best. Good luck with your repair.

Like Rich says, get the tool. There are a couple of good youtube videos out there on how to best use the brake spring pliers.