rallyace

I think they blend in well on my car.

Great news. Now go out and enjoy the fall colors in Upstate NY. Today is going to be the last perfect day for a while.

Having put more than a few miles on my 51 Plymouth in your area, I can attest for radials making a big difference on the roads that are always in need of repair. I have not played with the 50's vintage Mopar power steering units but on any old PS system flushing out the old oil is always a good idea. Flush it through and old T-shirt so you can see how much crap is in the system. If you get a lot out, keep flushing it. The crap will get into the orifaces in the unit and cause issues. A power steering unit relies on back pressure to stop the assisted forces so anything that upsets that equilibrium will cause problems. I had an old Dodge van that you had to counter steer to stop the assist or it would keep turning. Flushing the system fixed the problem.

We had a great time. We traveled 540 miles, got 17.9 mpg and used a half a pint of oil. I have a couple of minor noises I have to check out but other than that it was a trouble free weekend. One thing I am glad I did was install the overdrive transmission last year. It made the trip a lot more comfortable being able to run with the engine turning lower revs. We are looking forward to next year's picnic. Watkins Glen and the finger lakes region of New York has a lot to do, is home to dozens of wineries, craft breweries, and craft distilleries, is as picturesque an area as you can find and I heard it has some sort of famous race track there :)

I had one that was leaking bad and I could not swing a hammer to set the new one. I cleaned up the hole, and coated the sealing surfaces liberally with aircraft shellac gasket sealer. I rounded off the end of one of my old air chisel bits and used two quick blasts with the air chisel to set the plug. Worked like a charm.

A machine shop will drill it and use an E-Z out. I have had good luck removing them using vise grips and a properly fitting piece of key stock. I don't reuse them, I put in new ones with a raised square head. Much easier to remove in the future.

Something I learned through dissecting a newer 535 flasher. They are basically electronic flashers. The terminal for the dash indicator is tripped electronically and it does not work with a positive ground system. This is why folks have had issues with new flashers.

My water pump was leaking from behind the pump on my 51 P-23 and it was a bad gasket. It took longer to gain access to the pump so I could remove it than to replace the gasket. I pulled the radiator to make things easier. 90 minutes start to finish.

The price you listed sounds fair. That is what I paid last year for all of the machine work on my engine. They had to boil the block 3x to get all of the crap out. Bored 0.020, line bored, decked the block, new cam bearings installed and reamed, head milled flat, turned and polished the crank, valve guides installed and reamed, replaced two valve seats and cleaned up the rest, surfaced the flywheel and a full balance. Finding a good shop with a staff that knows what they are doing is the real trick. Look for a shop that does mostly truck, industrial and construction engine work. Their clientele demands good work.

The Aerostar front springs are available from O'Reilly's. Part number SP08160. Price is about $71 per pair.

If you are looking for the sealed, disposable filters they are extremely rare and very pricey. I am not aware of anyone making an aftermarket filter of that type.

Check with the various vendors like Andy Bernbaum, Roberts, MoparPro, and Vintage Powerwagons. They are out there.

Check with Mark or Marcel at R and D USA Classics. Mark is getting a shipment ready to go the Netherlands. http://www.rdusaclassics.com/

I found one at Runnings but NAPA or Tractor Supply should also have one. The one I got was for a Ford tractor.

Fram CA6605 is the equivalent to the NAPA 2296 and about half the price.

That looks like it is the spring that goes in the handbrake assembly. Look in your manual for the hand brake and you can see where it goes.

Can anyone tell me what the thread is on a P-23 front spindle? I searched and did not find anything posted. Thanks

I used Rectorseal #5 pipe dope on mine. The stuff has been around forever and is designed for water, gas and steam use so it will hold up fine. It is a non-hardening product so removal after years of service is generally not a problem.

I scraped as much off of mine as I could then hit it with the pressure washer. It was all part of cleaning the engine bay in preparation for installing my new motor last year. I scraped off so much weight that I got my 0-60 time to under a minute! Nothing to really be concerned about, just be careful around the rubber parts. Make sure you grease everything well once you are done, especially if you use a pressure washer. You want to displace any water that may have gotten past the seals.

I would go for the full stud kit. It includes the washers and the nuts with the taper machined on one end. A touch expensive but when I did my engine I felt it was worth the money. Studs alone will run you about $3 each at NAPA or the hardware store.

We will have to include a stop at the Prison City Brewery for lunch.

Actually you want to leave some room. There needs to be flow over the top of the valve to aid in cooling.

Looking for sources for a 6 volt voltage regulator. Of course I need one on a holiday weekend and need to have my car running by Thursday. I have tried the normal sources but cannot get deliver early enough. Is this something a farm supply house might have? Thanks in advance for your replies.

Today Greg G and I worked out the details of the cruise from Bennington, VT to Lake George, NY. It will be about 75 miles long and will cross several covered bridges, plenty of New England scenery, have one ice cream stop and a couple of regrouping locations. It will be a fun run.

Yes, East Syracuse, NY,