Dartgame

For distributor cams I have a tube of dist cam grease - Notsure where your would find that today - had it for years...anyway a very thin film is what your supposed to apply to the cam.

I found mine on rock auto - but would also consider rebuilding one myself. Also you could consider an electric pump - both in 6 volt and 12 volt.

Beam types would be the most reliable. I have both types: click and beam in craftsman. I also bought a cheap o beam type years ago that has the socket head on both sides of the business end of the wrench, so if you are torquing something upside down you can read the scale as well - pretty handy... I still use the click and then recheck with the beam on critical items. For high torques my buddy has a big snap on wrench I’ll borrow on the rare occasion. Important to reset the click type to zero when not being used.

Don’t know about deleting a post. for hardware - (using my 52 as a reference so take this with a grain of salt), its all standard threads nothing exotic, mostly 1/4 -20, 5/16 etc. There are many sources for hardware similar to oem, from many restoration houses. Assuming you are after large captive washer bolts etc. Try restoration specialties, Mr. G’s, and believe it or not your local hardware store sells a lot of SAE type hardware too, at least mine does.

No - the truck engine I found had an oil pan that had a threaded boss on the side of the pan where the pipe for the dipstick threaded in. If it were me I’d use the baffled pan, better oil control and you cant tell what’s inside looking from the outside - right ?

Soak em in solvent until all the grease dissolves. Any residual will get shoved through when installed and grease pumped through. The residual wont be dirty either.

Truck engine uses threaded boss on the side of the pan.

Look to master power brakes for more options on the master cylinder - I was able to buy a smaller bore cylinder for remote fill used with manual brakes from them.

The service manual covers this. You are correct, service manual uses two pieces of wood to hold the valve open. The lifters are held up using clothes pins. I would imagine taking out as much adjustment as possible on the lifters to reduce their effective height is needed as well.

The Amp meter gauge is fine, just reverse the connections., so it reads positive when running the engine and charging. As to the lights staying on - sounds like a wiring issue. Did you change your wiring harness ? Also know that there is a switch on the door pillar that runs the dome light, is it on ? Yes the dash lights need to be 12 v equivalents. The horns should be okay as long as you only use them in a short burst. Fuel gauge can use a runtz resistor to drop voltage. Heater and other motors will need a 12 v motor or a steady state voltage reducer - since the load on them is variable. If you have a two speed fan switch you could just use the low speed which is about 6v full using 12 v input. Hope this helps.

If you have a two speed switch on the fan - use only the low speed, it runs about half the rate of full using 12V, which would be high on 6V.

Might be a sticky float valve...fuel pump is more likely a pin hole leak.. Be sure to check your oil. You may find its got a bunch of gas in it.

These motors are long stroke already - shortest rod piston combo is going to be more durable...oddly enough 230’s use shorter rods than 218’s because the pistons on both are the same the cranks are different stroke.. Eventually I will be building a modded 230, but for now the 218 runs really well.

Bought mine on -ebay 10 spline 1 inch x 3/4 inch input (iirc) 5$ plastic, worked great !

I put a set of 80’s police rims on my 52. No clearance issues at all. But then again mine is a 52 and yours is a 46, so do check if you go that way.

An engine stethoscope can help with stuff like this too. Touch the probe end on a generator bearing area etc and listen...glad you found it !

I do like John above, except I take a couple ounces of gas and pour it carefully down the vent tube to get gas into the float bowl. I only have to do this when the car sits for a week or so. My Darts have the same issue, dump some gas in the float bowl and voila ! Instant start. The problem is the gasoline today is so volatile and has ethanol in it, it evaporates in no time. Even worse is winter gas - it has butane in it, yes butane. Before storing for the winter I use stable in the gas tank, and I spray penetrating oil into the carb and if possible down the top into the accelerator pump. A lot of accelerator pumps use leather instead of neoprene and will dry out, light oil will help them live until ready for use again.

Get a long piece of hardwood like oak that can slip in all the way down to bottom of the stuck piston. Strike with a large hammer to drive it out - especially easy if the crank is out. To get the cam out, turn the cam to lift the valves to max height. At max lift, slip some hard wood shims under the vavle - head seat, move on to the next and so on until all are being held open. Next screw down the valve lifter adjusters to their minimum. Remove cam, with engine upside down.

Interesting. I would think there is little to no difference. For muscle era mopar v8’s there is no difference.

When you rebuilt the carb did you check the float ? If the float has holes in it, then it will sink and make the mixture impossibly rich and completely insensitive to idle mixture screw adjustment. If not the float, then try spraying some carb cleaner around the throttle shaft while running and see if the engine speed changes or smooths out, if it does then the throttle shaft is loose and needs to have bushings installed on the carb base. I’d carefully check the assembly of the carb as well, make sure any check valves (steel balls) and rubber o rings are present. There is an o ring that sits under the step up piston - I missed it and have rebuilt many carbs over the years....my car ran, but idle was less than sensitive to mixture changes at idle. After i found the missing o ring, and installed it, voila smooth idle and sensitive mixture screw.

I have not installed mine yet, too much other stuff to do right now, but you could do the slant six electronic distributor swap. Do a search it should show up from a member named thrashing cows (I think). What you would need is a slant six distributor that you mix and match parts with a flat head dist. You end up with a pointless electronic mopar distributor and can use a standard mopar ignition box. I have not installed mine, but plan on using a GM HEI module and a Ford style coil = lots of spark energy .

Try Mr. G’s in Texas. They used to do plastic chrome.

I’d start by doing a compression test. Check each cylinder, and record the results. Then go back and repeat and add a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder and record results. All should be about the same in a healthy motor. A sick motor will show variance in psi for more than 20-30 + psi. Healthy motor should have compression of around 100 psi. If the pressure increases with the oil - the piston rings are worn out = bore block and new oversize pistons. If the oil changes nothing then the valves are worn and need a valve job. Assuming the motor is high mileage I’d imagine both need to be done, a complete overhaul.

You might need a speedy sleeve to repair the yoke. Look for a deep wear groove. The old leather seals we really tough on sealing surfaces and would wear a nice groove in them...

Advance springs are important items. Common speed trick is to decrease the spring tension on the weights for a faster timing curve. I talked with George Asche about using lighter advance springs in a flat head dizzy, and he did not think it was something that helps the performance of these engines. I might try it someday once my car is streetable. Maybe next year.