9 foot box

This is Butte,MT, winter 1955. A 47 Dodge, chained up and delivering boxes loaded in the back. Looking north @ 4-6% grade. The truck is missing the left rear fender. Knowing the history of my truck’s previous owners, it could be my WD21. Rick D.

I looked in my W-series parts list book. and the 2ton, 1.500” bore, 3 bolt master cylinder is 696383. That crosses to a Raybestos MC785. The best price that I saw was @RockAuto.com, $192. VPW has a 1.500”bore, but I think it’s a 4 bolt. I have a 47 that I bought for parts. It has a 251 with sodium exhaust valves, six bolt wheels and five speed transmission. It was a grain truck from Lind,WA. It had a straight stack exhaust with a box collector. The box filled with dust that ended up mostly in the rear cylinders. It’s a T120 block. Rick D.

A friend stopped by last week. A few pictures of his truck on a 2006 Durango chassis, with longer bed sides, to fit the wheelbase. He said that he uses cruise control, because he is inclined to exceed the speed limits on secondary roads. I bought the stock parts from his project, and used the 4.1 rear to replace a 4.3 in my Dekalb delivery truck. I donated the Coronet hood ornament. I saw him last summer when I was getting gas for my 41 WC 1/2ton. He had just bought a 42 WC. We only talked briefly, but I’m sure, more parts will be bartered in the future. I’ve offered stock long block engines and parts to restore his new purchase, but I will just wait and see what direction he decides to go with his 42 resurrection. I don’t think he has the purist tendencies that I have.

I put a Carter 2146397 filter on my B&B carburetor. The gasket was cracked, so I bought a Carter 30-82 stone filter and gasket. My filter has a short lower spring to hold the stone in place. I was getting fine particles in the float bowl that bypass the fuel pump bowl. I’ll flush the tank as soon as the weather permits. This is for my recently acquired 41 Dodge half ton that I drive daily. A picture and/or the make and model number of your filter housing would be beneficial. I saw a 18-7784 fuel filter and accessory gaskets that might work. It seems to have multiple applications and I suppose you need the spring to hold the filter element up, for a constant seal.

I googled the number, and in the 40-48 Mopar Sheet Metal and body parts book, came up with a center grill section for a 41 Plymouth. Posting a picture of what you have, would be easier to identify what you have.

I have a 49 Chrysler with a Spitfire head. I used a Stant 13928 thermostat. I bought it from Rockauto several years ago. They sell a Motorad 400580 now. NAPA THM 155, Gates 33028, are a couple other numbers. It has to have the top rubber seal. You have to use thread sealant on the housing bolts, they go into the water jacket, the same as the manifold, head and water pump bolts. Your other post said that you cleaned the head with Evaporust. What are the first three digits of the engine number, on the top of the block? My engine is C45. Keeping all your posts to one thread is easier to keep up with your project. If you buy from DCM, a C-513 is the thermostat and the lower outlet tube is C-152. If your engine number is C52, it’s a 265 c.i.

I made a mistake on those part numbers, those would be for the distributor cap. The part pictured is a 641252, Ignition coil high tension terminal screw. dpmotorparts has 10 for $15 each. Rick D.

This is what my coil has. From my parts book there is a 676872 terminal and a 150834 nipple for the coil secondary wire.

To bench test the starter, the top left post needs to be grounded. And a battery. The starter won’t motor without that wire or using a charger. This is my test setup, with a remote starter button. Rick D.

Main street classic car clocks.com has a guaranteed working clock for $350. When I was driving truck, I’d put my wristwatch on the signal-stat turn signal switch. It’s funny how big some of the clock faces were in some cars. I guess so the people in the back seat could see the time and keep the driver on their schedule.

An Edelmann 308400 drain valve has a hose nipple. It is 90* and looks like the original 907782 that are in my cars.

Worden18 had his Meadowbrook for sale a couple months ago. I don’t know if he sold it. He had a nice 49 Dodge one ton for sale and didn’t get any responses. Both were reasonably priced and running and driving. He offered them here in classifieds for forum members. He probably sold them if he listed on Craigslist or Marketplace. Message him if you’re still interested, and see what he has to say. Rick D.

The tapered ends of your worm gear are too worn down for the bearings to seat in the races. I built up my ends by welding and some lathe work. The lower bearing race now extends .040, and gaskets used for bearing pre-load. Then I adjusted the cross shaft. I packed the box with corn head grease. I intend to contact Powerbrakex-change.com, 800 580-5729, they say that they specialize in Gemmer boxes. The web site shows a rebuilt 40 Plymouth box, and other vintage vehicles, so I have high hopes of a proper repair if I don’t find a replacement steering box for my 41WC.

My fittings are 3/8” NPT. 84728-45*, 84775-90*

You might find a bushing that will work at sdtrucksprings.com. They have a chart and dimensions for Harris bushings that have the collar on them. That is how I got the number for my P15 rear shackle and spring bushings. Rick D.

It should look like this, 10.250” long.

The Service Manual says that you can do some repairs to the steering, without removing the column. I would suspect that the caged bearing at the worm gear is binding. Or you took out too much gasket on the major adjustment. My repair was on my 41 WC, so I removed the column. You will need pitman arm and steering wheel pullers. Keith might have a You Tube video of a repair. Rick D.

It’s nice that you checked back Barry. Dodge/Fargo had carburetors for fuel efficiency, my guess is that they used those parts also. They reduce the Venturi size, they might centralize the gas but performance would be diminished. They should be completely smooth for their intended purpose. It would not matter how you place them, because there are holes and spacing for your vacuum attachment to still work, slightly diminished. I would put them on a shelf of unused parts. Rick D.

If you bought the K4060 rebuild kit, you will have the dashpot cup and parts for reassembly. After reading the information @Mikes web site, it requires tools and abilities that most people don’t have. Mike can only supply the cup, you have to replace the cup on the shaft. After drilling the peened head, holding the old cup, you probably need to drill and tap the rod that holds the cup. Then it’s nice to have a lathe to drill the rod and thread it with a bottoming tap, to hold the parts centered and tight, with a screw. Mikes site shows a type 1 mechanical adjustment and a type 2 electric. I would PM, b1bkeven to see if he could help you. He knows Dodge. That’s my thoughts. Rick D.

I have U.S. W-series trucks, and that part number isn’t in my parts book. Googling the number, just comes up with your search. A picture would be helpful, and the tonnage of the truck. I have a tall throat intake manifold, that has a stand off disc at the bottom, supposedly to atomize the fuel and disperse it to the three intake ports of the block. Tim Kingsbury would probably know what you are referring to, but I haven’t any contact information. Rick D.

Turn the engine over so that the pointer is at DC on the front pulley. Screw in the compression tester fitting to number one cylinder, attach your compressor hose. If it holds air pressure, you’re at TDC. If it doesn’t hold air, the engine is firing on number six cylinder, rotate the engine pulley one revolution to get to TDC. Be sure that the plug wires are all secured in the cap. 2 and 4 can be get loose with handling. Rick D.

I only have a cheap box tester that I got from my dear old friend, Louie. When I hook a battery to it, it shows a voltage and color scheme of the condition of a 6 or 12 volt battery. When I switch to load the gauge reads the availability of voltage or if it’s discharged. If the gauge drops off, the battery is bad and won’t take a full charge. Rick D.

I agree with the load test. Voltage is a false determination of cranking power. When starting any of my engines cold, they need an application of choke to stay running. Your 49 probably has a Sisson automatic choke. The majority of my vehicles have choke and throttle cables, and I use them both at cold startup. Rick D.

I would try the other keys that you were given. But to get the tumbler out, it needs to be turned to the left for the small brass button to be depressed. Then pull it out. The ignition key works on my doors, the other key locks the trunk, a third key locks my glove box. I have used a KS6482 tumbler in a couple instances, but not in my P15’s. The Pentastar key just look’s wrong in a vintage car. Try what has been suggested before you Dremel down the brass button to get it apart. It worked before, it wouldn’t just fail. Rick D.

A D51 is a 54 Dodge car engine. The original engine was probably a T114. Google t137 other engines. Rick D.