The Oil Soup
-
Posts
668 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Links Directory
Profiles
Articles
Forums
Downloads
Store
Gallery
Blogs
Events
Everything posted by The Oil Soup
-
Is the actual fuzzy u channel that cushions and guides the glass missing or the metal that it attaches to down in the door? The u channel glues in and is available from many sources.
-
https://stores.zmjeeps.com/shackle-kit-802062/ The Jeep shackles are 2.75” between centers vs. 4.00” for the stock dodge shackles and I used them to lower my truck in the rear suspension and also flipped the shackle, they are too short to use on the front springs. You need one pt# 802062 and one 802061. I think the 802061 part has a left hand thread.
-
I repaired mine using the info on this site and froze the bulb in a cup of water before starting and used JB weld instead of soldering and it has been working fine for several years.
-
It was on the shifter! Thanks for the help.
-
After a drive in my truck this part was laying on the floor mat just about where the floor shift would be ( my truck is column shift ). I have rebuilt or replaced everything on the truck except the wipers ( electric ). It is made of spring steel and looks to be well worn and broken due to much movement. The second photo with the kellys is showing the profile in the shadow image. Thanks
-
Also verify that the vacuum advance works, it either does or doesn’t. I think oldmoparts rebuilds them.
-
I was replacing the engine and had the entire front group off the truck with the radiator supported by the hoses and wood blocking and the space where you access the hand crank was plenty big.
-
Mine was in the same condition as yours, to fix it I took a piece of chalk and with the motor running just kissed the forward edge of the pulley and shut off the motor, grabbed a block of wood and tapped the chalk mark, wiped it off and repeated the procedure until the pulley has a barely noticeable shimmy.
-
Another thing to consider is that the flange on the 230 crank is 3/16” further back than the flange on the 218 necessitating machining the starter mounting pad that 3/16”.
-
Thanks Sniper! https://www.baldwinfiltersrus.com/baldwin-jc405-lube-sock-filter.html
-
Tim Knaup 1947 Plymouth Special Deluxe carb issues
The Oil Soup replied to T Knaup's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Vics dodge garage has rebuilt B&B carbs for under $300 and Daytona parts has a comparable 1 bbl carb with adjustable main jet for about the same price. -
Does anyone have a source for Baldwin JC405 sock filter, from what I’ve seen online only case lots are available.
-
Photos?
-
I don’t know if this is a legitimate ad but it looks like “job rated” was still in use for the 1953 model line.
-
Sounds like it has a stuck valve from sitting a long while.
-
That is what I used on my truck and am happy with the gearing but I may consider using a Laycock J Type overdrive to retain the 3 speed on the column and lower cruising rpm.
-
The YOM plate looks great!
-
Mine has the under bed mount with an original 6.00 x 16” bias ply that is flat, and I need to get around to a new exhaust system also.
-
The shop manual for the ‘53 218/230 states: Flywheel nuts..........7/16”—20 55 to 60 foot-pounds.
-
Tractor Supply has cotton picker grease that works well also. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/super-s-cotton-picker-spindle-grease-00
-
You might also run additional grounds from the engine to cab, engine to frame and from frame to cab.
-
That looks a little different than mine in that the bolt goes in from the bottom and has a castle nut and cotter pin on the top.
-
Here are all the pieces put together except for the mount on the frame. The tube that runs inside the rubber pads prevents the bolt from over compressing them and allows the nut to cinch the lock washer. I’m not aware of any rubber washer in the assembly.
-
I’m right in the middle of changing out my tired original motor for a fresh rebuild. The rear motor mounts have a piece of tubing joining them which mics out at 0.450” id x 2.500”+/- so I believe the bolt is 7/16”. The larger pad on the top, smaller pad on the bottom with the large washer underneath. My truck is a ‘53 but all the casting dates on the motor and trans are ‘52.
-
The button on top of the starter can be screwed in or out as to when the electrical contact is made, so it sounds like the” button” needs to be unscrewed to allow the starter to engage the ring gear before the starter begins to turn. Here is the section in the shop manual.
