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The Oil Soup

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Everything posted by The Oil Soup

  1. I am in the process of pulling my old motor and putting a new rebuilt motor in, so it will be a few weeks before I get things sorted out and report on the results.
  2. I just purchased 2 Daytona UN2 carbs, they look like copies of the Carter B&B.They feature an externally adjustable main jet. Haven’t run them yet. https://daytonaparts.com/m/replacement_carburetor_chevy.html
  3. Another thing to consider is filing off any snags that are along the pinch weld.
  4. It sounds like the problem is in the regulator not keeping the glass level as it comes up. You should be able to inspect it with the window fully down.
  5. The trick to get old JB weld off is to use a torch. I used it on a muffler once, didn't last too long.
  6. The plug I pulled from a '51 218 was original and was steel so perhaps being in contact with motor oil rather than coolant is the reason for the steel. Maybe the Dorman 550-019 1.375" would expand enough? I'll give it a try.
  7. Does anyone have a part number for the expansion plug on the back of a 218/230 block at the camshaft? The hole is about 1.384".
  8. I have a glycerin filled pressure gauge between the fuel pump and carburetor that works fine as long as you drain the liquid from it.
  9. If you have fuel in the carb throat it is percolation, so it's flooded and you need to put the pedal to the plastic and crank it, that'll start it. Also the shield may help a little but won't eliminate the problem. Plymouthys advice to adjust the float level lower should help.
  10. The sediment bowl will remain full when the tank runs dry or has blockage, it has to have constant supply. I think you're out of fuel.
  11. I don't see a ballist resistor in your diagram and it sounds like you are frying your coil.
  12. You might find a complete vehicle for the cost of hauling it off and score a good engine!
  13. I repaired my gauge several years ago and it still works fine. Buy a mechanical temp gauge that has a flexible metal line ( not plastic, under $25 ) put the bulb in a cup of water and freeze it, cut the line a couple feet from the bulb so the splice will be hidden under the dash and find a piece of brass to join the new bulb with the old gauge. Make sure the hole is open in the line when you cut it, slip the two ends into the brass sleeve and solder together or as I did JB weld them together. Test the gauge in boiling water.
  14. Could just be a stuck valve?
  15. Perhaps that was an industrial engine, most I've seen have casting dates on the head and or driver's side of the block. Industrial engines generally lack a vaccum advance so maybe that is why it may have the incorrect dizzy.
  16. Here is a link to look up filters by size. https://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/FilterBySize.aspx Should help
  17. I ran mine like yours and it drew a lot of oil so I think it is better to plumb it to the air filter, unless there is some sort of mesh at the road draft fitting to catch oil mist. Do you have a filter at the oil breather cap?
  18. I used a GM 3 wire 12 volt and fabbed a bracket. I also still use the ammeter and a voltage gauge and idiot light. Here is a good article on alternators. http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml
  19. JB, can you decipher what is printed under FILTER 1265706 ???????? I know across the bottom it reads; Deluxe Products Corporation La Porte Indiana??? I can also see in your photo where it is stamped Outlet (vertically) just under the fitting opening. Thank you for the actual dimensions.
  20. Here is a link to an article about the JC filter cartridge issues and some other helpful info. http://www.secondchancegarage.com/feature-articles/sock-filter-1.cfm From the rusty imprint on mine it appears the decal was 2 1/8"x 4 1/2". The decal has a Mopar part # 1265706 and I'm not sure that shows up in any Mopar reference books.
  21. Does anyone know if this decal is repopped? It is specific to the JC type Deluxe filter and Mopar. Maybe someone has experience having waterslide decals made.
  22. I would mark the shackle with some chalk, take it apart and hold it out the correct distance from the spring so the bushing seats all the way. I guess the older trucks don't have a dust cover on the shackle and that may be why it is more difficult to install.
  23. IIRC the installation should go like this, shackle mounted to the spring, other end of shackle to the frame mount and lastly other end of spring to the frame mount. Be generous with the grease.
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