The Oil Soup
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Everything posted by The Oil Soup
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I used a Cherokee 8.25 rear (3.55) with drum brakes and it is slightly narrower than the stock rear but no problems with clearance.
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Make sure to file any snags off the pinch weld to prevent scuffing the new windshield gasket during the install.
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Here is a nice source of mopar cars, trucks and parts. I have no connection with this site and if this is inappropriate please delete. https://www.freedomcarauctions.com/auctions/7908-Great-Texas-MOPAR-Vehicle-Hoard-Auction?page=1&search=&sort=&lotsTotal=301&pageSize=100
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The pointer is held on by three or four spot welds on the timing chain cover and is easier seen from the drivers side.
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As I assembled my engine I would rotate it after every part or series of parts were installed using an 18” Crescent wrench to make sure it was not binding. Crankshaft, pistons and con rods etc., also slathering on plenty of assembly lube. Clockwise and yes two revolutions.
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I just put a 230 in my truck that had a 218 and from Dons post was aware there might be a problem. After measuring the distance from the mounting surface of the starter to the forward edge of the ring gear on the 218 and the 230, the 230 flywheel is about 0.180” further away from the starter mount surface, so that much was removed from the bell housing and everything is fine. Also had to back off on the clutch pedal adjustment slightly. Go for it! -
FINALLY - My 1948 B-1-D Build Thread, 33 Years Later
The Oil Soup replied to billrigsby's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
It might be a good idea to take a drift and flare the exposed end of the WDT to conform a little better to the opening. -
I found that ‘60 to ‘70 Jeep headlight bezels would work on a B model truck, not sure of a C model and your not going to get your original bezels chrome plated any cheaper than new ones.
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Is the actual fuzzy u channel that cushions and guides the glass missing or the metal that it attaches to down in the door? The u channel glues in and is available from many sources.
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https://stores.zmjeeps.com/shackle-kit-802062/ The Jeep shackles are 2.75” between centers vs. 4.00” for the stock dodge shackles and I used them to lower my truck in the rear suspension and also flipped the shackle, they are too short to use on the front springs. You need one pt# 802062 and one 802061. I think the 802061 part has a left hand thread.
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I repaired mine using the info on this site and froze the bulb in a cup of water before starting and used JB weld instead of soldering and it has been working fine for several years.
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It was on the shifter! Thanks for the help.
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After a drive in my truck this part was laying on the floor mat just about where the floor shift would be ( my truck is column shift ). I have rebuilt or replaced everything on the truck except the wipers ( electric ). It is made of spring steel and looks to be well worn and broken due to much movement. The second photo with the kellys is showing the profile in the shadow image. Thanks
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Also verify that the vacuum advance works, it either does or doesn’t. I think oldmoparts rebuilds them.
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I was replacing the engine and had the entire front group off the truck with the radiator supported by the hoses and wood blocking and the space where you access the hand crank was plenty big.
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Mine was in the same condition as yours, to fix it I took a piece of chalk and with the motor running just kissed the forward edge of the pulley and shut off the motor, grabbed a block of wood and tapped the chalk mark, wiped it off and repeated the procedure until the pulley has a barely noticeable shimmy.
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Another thing to consider is that the flange on the 230 crank is 3/16” further back than the flange on the 218 necessitating machining the starter mounting pad that 3/16”.
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Thanks Sniper! https://www.baldwinfiltersrus.com/baldwin-jc405-lube-sock-filter.html
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Tim Knaup 1947 Plymouth Special Deluxe carb issues
The Oil Soup replied to T Knaup's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Vics dodge garage has rebuilt B&B carbs for under $300 and Daytona parts has a comparable 1 bbl carb with adjustable main jet for about the same price. -
Does anyone have a source for Baldwin JC405 sock filter, from what I’ve seen online only case lots are available.
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Photos?
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I don’t know if this is a legitimate ad but it looks like “job rated” was still in use for the 1953 model line.
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Sounds like it has a stuck valve from sitting a long while.
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That is what I used on my truck and am happy with the gearing but I may consider using a Laycock J Type overdrive to retain the 3 speed on the column and lower cruising rpm.
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The YOM plate looks great!
