kencombs

Might be easier and maybe cheaper (only if you can find used) to change the trans to an OD. Maybe a 200-4r as they are smaller and more efficient that the 400. But the 3.54 isn't bad. That was my goto ratio back when I really like brisk acceleration but needed to drive it to work too.

Definitely gotta find me some surgical tubing. Like you I have several goggle that need need new stretch-um

That works well, IF you have the tools. Works even better it you drill a pilot hole in the stud to start the cut, less blowback. Lacking the torch, I've use the DeWalt pilot point drill bits. Where possible use the manifold as a drill guide

If you change your mind and decide to do it, both Amazon and Summit Racing have the tool available.

123 bucks! For an empty PVC pipe glue can, a few stock fittings and a piece of hose? Lots of ways to go if you don't like plastic. I'd prefer stainless or aluminum tube with welded ends and screw in cap and lower fitting. Nicely polished of course. Not stock, but really more like what a car guy would have used in the 60s or so. Same technique and materials make a nice radiator overflow if using a pressurized system.

I'm taking a really long path to a new dimmer switch. GM tilt column with it's switch. Lots of other reasons* to put the column in, the switch is just a fringe benefit. But that type of switch would be easy enough to do. *no rigid steel spear in front of me, connect to the power steering gear, it easier for me to fit the trucks driving position etc.

Since I don't have your drum measurements, all I can suggest is measure yours and compare to these: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ford-Performance-M-1126-B-New-11-x-2-3-4-Ford-Brake-Drums,27028.html. They have dual bolt patterns to fit Wagons/Broncos/Pickups as well as 'normal' cars. Cast numbers are not always reliable this long after they were manufactured as they could be replacements. Also cast numbers don't always mean the finished product is only one part number as the same raw casting could be used for two or more bolt patterns or other differences.

Check the rear bushing in the trans for wear. Long shot, but if it can move at all the movement will be different if the trans output is driving it vs the driveshaft driving (power vs coast) That could cause a closely adjusted park brake to drag. Long shot as said but possible, or maybe the brake is dragging all the time and a tiny movement causes the sound? Centering those bands is a pain sometimes.

Good advice already given. I only offer this: Please don't drive it until fixed a sudden loss of brakes is not fun, BTDT. And, add a return spring so you aren't relying on the masters internal spring to return the pedal.

The six engine rear has a unique pattern. But both the early poly and hemi share a pattern. There is one housing that will fit both. Late 5s 0s-60 trucks. Its center hole is much larger than the early housings but is the same size as an A833OD front bearing retainer. So my Franken-truck with said trans is getting a six but ready for a poly or hemi should I locate one.

Find your part number(s) and search eBay. There are usually several listed. Not cheap, but available.

That's how systems are filled at the factory I understand. And bigger shops sometimes use them for coolant fill as a lot of newer stuff is really hard to get all the air out for a gravity fill. I actually have used my A/C vacuum pump and parts of the pressure test kit to rig up such. Never really used it, just proved I could if needed.

According to the diagram above, it only has one terminal with three wire on it. No personal knowledge but that's how it looks to me.

I bought a cooling system pressure tester. HF but works good. Plug the overflow, and hose outlets, put the adapter on the cap, pump up to 2-4lbs and submerge in water. Hope for no bubbles. Works on the car too to test for core plugs, gaskets etc.

Close clearances require oil thinner than most use in old cars, IMO. But, for years the rule of thumb was one thou per inch of journal diameter. Realistically I shoot for .0015 to .0025 for rods, maybe up to .0035 for mains. I would only go tighter on mains if the block had been line honed by a good shop. An extra thou clearance is sometimes needed to prevent binding due to a little misalignment. I've seen cranks that wouldn't turn with all the caps tightened, but when all but one was loose Plasti-guage normally. There used to be a source for oil pump 'overhaul' kits, spacer and longer gears to provide higher volume. Used them in old Y-block Fords that had oiling issues. Covered up the oil pressure loss by just pumping enough to build pressure. I know you've all seen engines with really low idle pressure but OK at speed. Result of bearings, especially mains, at the upper end (or over) or the spec. edit to add: If you want to get deep on the subject look up 'hydrodynamic lubrication' . The theory there helps with understanding viscosity and bearing clearances. Once started there should never be any metal to metal contact because of that phenomenon.

We had a 13 hour outage, ended about 4 hours ago. Lots of broken poles, downed lines etc. City just finished a big tree trimming contract or it would have been much worse. 80-90MPH straight wind foran hour or so as the system passed.

Remember the first rule of troubleshooting performance issues: Most carb problems are ignition related. I'd first rule out points, cap and condenser. Then fuel pressure and flow to the carb. Lastly deal with the carb if still needed.

I don't think you will find a pumpkin tha fits the housing in a ratio that high. time to measure the old unit and go salvage shopping for a complete rear axle. What engine and trans are you running that requires such a ratio? Just curious.

If you can post a pic of the front of the engine w/o the pulley, then a pic of the backside of the pulley, maybe that will trigger some ideas. Is the only change you've made the timing cover and pulley?

Matching engine and trans is the way to go, IMHO. Furthermore, a Mopar flat six is by far the easiest. Transmission fitment was unique to each of the big 3 back then. Even GM had different models for there products. Now if you are up for lots of mods to improve HP, or go auto then the sky's the limit. Lots of potential donors. Just not my cup of tea right now. Good cores are out there and not too expensive. For instance I have a complete engine / trans from my project but way to far South of you to be of interest. Lots of them should be around from projects not going the stock direction. Don't overlook combines, forklifts, aircraft tugs and old farm trucks as potential donors. These little workhorses were used everywhere!

The tool I use for most crimps is an ancient T&B that looks like the Klein 1006 on the page you linked. I have a couple of them, one in my big box with other electrical stuff and one on my roll around work table. Works for me. One just has to remember which jaw gets the open side of the terminal, if using folded barrel terminals.

Well, after all that I find that my Hollander doesn't cover pre-50 very well. But, in a few places that I found, all the bearings it did cover were the same 47-56. Maybe the issue showing up in this is some superceded part numbers over the years.

If you can post the actual part (axle, not assembly but actual axle shaft, bearing etc). and numbers you are questioning maybe I can find something in my old Hollander. It covers late 40s/mid 50s so there might be some info there.

I've cut 1" aluminum with my table saw. That's how I cut my 2bbl carb adapter. A couple of cuts would get me through 2" stock if needed. Just used a good .125 kerf triple chip grind blade normally used for solid surface cabinet top material. Wax the blade first, slow feed and solid hold/clamp the stock. Setting up for a tapered cut is a normal part of woodworking so no issue there, after determining the needed angle. A miter saw would work to but would require some supports, clamps to hold the stock rigidly.

And, you can open up the plug gap to take advantage of the potential higher voltage. The voltage will never be higher than the level needed to jumg that gap. So a closer gap will result in a shorter spark, lower voltage and heat/energy to light the mixture.