kencombs

I used to use lye, (or Drano as it is almost pure lye) as a stripper and cleaner. But it has become really hard to buy locally in bulk. Even hardware stores keep it locked up or hidden away. Apparently it is a precursor chemical for some meth recipes.' I have a restaurant quality two burner countertop electric range and a stainless pan that just fits both burners. Makes a great mini-hot tank, when I can find the chemicals. Grease, oil, paint, it all comes off with time and 210 degrees in there. A quick soak in vinegar, and even the rust is gone.

Punch or drill a hole in the seals metal rim to insert a large sheet metal screw or two. Use them to lever it out.

My spline count is 16 and a 1.250 diameter. Only usable in your case if you wanted to have a shop weld the male part into your shaft to gain the late u-joint.

Spline OD and count. Bolt hole spacing and size.

I may have the part. Need more info to know if it will work. It's from a 56 Pickup w/3spd. I'll be using the back of the driveshaft to build one that fits an A833OD and my stock differential. I know the 56 and 47 u-joints are different but if the bolt arrangement is the same as well as the spline size and count one could maybe upgrade to the later, easier to find joint.

I didn't mead 'repair' in the car, just testing. That is as easily done on the car as on the bench. And without the weightlifting workout.

You can't really do anything on the bench with the starter assembled that can't be done on the engine. Remove all wires then test solenoid windings, contact resistance etc. But all wires should be disconnected as shorts in wiring may be misconstrued. If I were working on it the first thing would be to unhook the wires then make up a couple of test leads. Prably 12ga wire with clips long enough to reach a battery, either in the car or just one to test. clip one lead on the solenoid 'small post' and the other end to the battery. At this point polarity doesn't matter. Now use the other lead clipped to the other 'small post' and momentarily touch the other end to the other battery post. If it clicks it is likely working, if not use your meter to test for opens or grounds in the solenoid coil. There are other tests, but that's where I'd start.

clean it well, really well then spray with auto trans fluid, the bright red stuff. Now clean again and dust with corn starch. If's a crack it will show as a red line in the white corn starch. Cheap guys dye penetrant inspection. Easier to do on horizontal surfaces, but might work on the side of the block. Or search for 'dye pentrant kit' online. Lots of them out there, some that even include a black light and the fluids that glow. Much cheaper and easier than MagnaFlux and works well on cast iron cracks as well as aluminum and other metals

Bing, do you have a wiring diagram for your car? I don't have one to reference so I'll have to ask: What is the actual path from the generator, which serves as ground, to the start circuit? If it passes through the switch and your switch isn't 'on' or inoperative, you would have no ground for that post on the solenoid. Please try grounding it with a jumper to remove all doubt.

Is that a tire dept gauge? Sure looks like it. Clever adaptation of use if it is!

My hearing is so bad I never use the beep, just set the dial on the lowest ohm setting and watch the meter. More info to learn that way anyway.

Have you checked that upper left wire (the one that should go to the generator) to be sure it is grounded? Or just attach a temporary wire to a known good ground and try it? I the solenoid pull-in circuit is dead simple, voltage in on one small terminal and out to a ground on the other and polarity doesn't matter for the purposes of a test start.

That is the reason I keep a lot of products in my shop fridge. And it is set just above freezing. Hardeners, activators etc last much longer at lower temps.

Or, same thing: https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-CBF-20-Circuit-Breaker-Automotive/dp/B00139FQLU?th=1. Marked 12v but amps is amps

Bingster, pay close attention to the red in this post. I didn't see where you grounded that post before jumping to the upper right.

I have always packed oil pumps with vaseline before installation. provides for almost instant oil pickup, been doing it since the '60s.

Excellent answer! OP, take a look at the threads on the plug, there should be a clear indication as to which ones were outside the head. Is that where it stops now? IF so, you're done!

So, the problem appears to be uneven engagement. Was the flywheel resurfaced at the time of the clutch change? Hard spots, usually indicated by blue spots on the flywheel can cause this symptom. It is possible that the symptom will get better or disappear with use. As far a play between the female and male parts, there has to be some or it wouldn't function. How much is too much is the question. I can't imagine a case where this would cause the symptom you describe, but I've been wrong before, many times!

If that 1/8" is measured at the outer rim of the plate while moving fore and aft on the shaft, it is not the source of the problem. It can't move when sandwiched between the pressure plate and flywheel. Only if it off center or out of balance will it be an issue. The 1/8" difference is size in inconsequential also IMO. Lots of pressure plates are slightly larger than their matching disk. Is your shudder actually a vibration? seems to be from the description as it changes with speed. Is this when revving in neutral or actually driving? If it is a vibration when not moving then the flywheel, pressure plate and disk are under suspicion as well as the crank pulley and internals of the engine. A badly worn pilot bushing that doesn't center the main drive gear well can also cause a vibration.

That T&C wire strand count is exactly why the power sliding doors fail so often that there are aftermarket door harnesses available. 2007 T&C owner who has changed both sides.

One comment on wire. To quote Nancy Reagan on copper-coated AL, Just say no! Or maybe she was talking about something else, but she was right. Aluminum wiring of any kind has no place in a moving, vibrating, corroding conveyance. Becomes brittle, loosens connection when heat cycled etc. Only copper for me, I'd love tinned but will probably settle to an all-copper 12-14 circuit kit. The kind with pre-printed wire labels and integral turn signal flashers (two for hazards too). Since I'm using GM column parts the fact that most of these come with the correct plug for ignition, turn signals and dimmer switch is a huge plus for me. Those come at several price points. Reading carefully some have the above mentioned CU-AL wire. Better ones don't. I'd be interested in hearing from folks who have used the sub-$150 kits. I know the 300 up buck kits are better but are they that much better?

There are a number pulley and pointer combinations that will physically fit. And only one combination will be correct. Not uncommon to find mismatches. So, the advice to find it with the plug over #6 and mark the pulley is good advice. I had four engines on hand when I started on my pickup. None of them were the same! One piece pulley, two piece pulley, two different pointer configurations etc.

from my observations at the salvage, most were due to the body moving forward, not the wheel moving rearward. The exceptions were almost always a car hitting a low, solid obstacle such as a concrete end of a culvert, or a high hit levering the frame upward and back.. But, in the case of pickups, especially the 54 up, the steering gear is outside the frame in front of the axle and vulnerable to impact directly on it. So it can move independent of the frame with a really solid hit. Early seat belts, starting with the 56 model year with some makers were only lap belts. And the early shoulder harnesses had no effective inertia reel so a lot of upper body movement happened. Late stuff actually tightens the belt before much, if any movement. Since I'll be using salvage belts or aftermarket I'll plan on no active restraint only the initial 'snugness'. So some movement is likely, thus my new column.

Things are good. Still tinkering with my long term project. Engine/trans complete ready to install. Body/bed in primer ready for final coat and sanding before paint. Power steering almost done, needs final welding on mount and double d shaft to column installed. Then I can paint and start assembly.

As I read the problem, the trans works ok, until it sticks in Second gear. Then the lever cannot be moved. indicative of something inside the trans preventing the synchro clutch sleeve from moving. Maybe the OP needs to provide some more details.