kencombs

I second the oil recommendation. Actually, most any oil is ok. More important is a very short interval for the first oil change. Anything in the engine or 'new' wear particles are flushed out then. Critial on engines like these with bypass filtration as those particles will not be filtered for a while.

It's still unclear to me exactly what the symptoms are. Did it not go into gear or the lever moves properly but it won't move under power? Is it in gear now? Will it roll in gear not running? Lots of unknowns. The others may be right about the clutch, just too many questions open to give decent advice. If the lever is in the correct position for any gear the car should not roll when pushed, engine off clutch out.

I've not done that specific part but on similar items I've used the cheapest masking tape I could find. Backwards of my usual selection of the best tape. The reason was I found a cheap tape that was very thin, and when applied you could vaguely see the outline of the part/letters etc. Just covered the whole thing and cut away the part to be painted with an Xacto knife. Much easier than carefully taping each little feature. Even works in reverse to mask decals on newer cars and tractors.

That was my first thought. Tighten the belt, and press on the slack side while turning it.

Way back in '82 I was finally comfortable with spending the money for my first new car. Actually, wife's first new car, I had my toy vechicles. So, my boss was big on Mercedes and I took a look. Wound up buying a Toyota Cressida, their top of the line at the time. Because, the 3-4 year cost of dealer recommended maintenance on the Merc was more than the payments on the Toy! Never regretted that decision. Even though I traded it in on an 83 when they put the Supra engine and independent rear suspension into the Cressida line. Great cars! 100K + miles and not one cent in unscheduled maintenance. Oil, filters , tires and just drive it. OTOH, my bosses Merc made several trips for fix little stuff. Turbo diesel was bulletproof, but power accessories were another matter.

JMHO, but no sealer should be needed at the pipe to manifold connection on a new installation. If it fits correctly, it won't leak. Double check the flange. Is it flat? If not correct that first. Does the pipe project slightly into the manifold? Or is the pipe flush with the flange? A projecting pipe was original on every old Mopar if my memory is any good. That makes the gasket last longer and reduces stress on it.

Except there have been reports of new replacement parts from somewhere other than the USA being supplied with metric tapping. Examples of engine mounts, water pumps and wheel cylinders have been mentioned. So, one should check when in doubt.

Can you clarify the red statement for me? Does that mean it is in neutral and can't be shifted into any gear? If so, first go over all the linkage attachments to be sure everything is connected. Then check for looseness at all pivot points. Lastly adjust as described by another poster. The low on power may mean that it was not in the expected gear due to misadjustment.

I'm in the 'you're OK' camp too. Added clearance used to be a common setup on competition engines. As long as the pump can maintain adequate flow to build pressure it's a good thing.

THANKS, For translating the pic into something PC friendly. I have no idea why Apple has to be so unfriendly. And, they want to charge for the app for my PC.

I'm pretty sure the manifold he used will allow the stock steering to be used, IF, one offsets the engine to the right a bit. A lot of later Mopars have the the engine offset. I'm not sure why he specifically stated he didn't offset. Best way to do it IMHO. Edit: That manifold can be from any A body of the 63-66 years with a V8, not just power steering. Hard to find though, and if one is performance minded it is sort of restrictive. But, the 65 Dart I once owned still ran really good even with that restriction.

Try NiCop, flares great, as well as bending much easier than steel.

Take the pump apart and see what's wrong. Could be one of the check valves stuck due to sitting so long. If the diaphragm isn't cracked it may be repairable with no parts.

Yeah, me too. 'happened to a friend of mine'

How deep is the dent? Slight visual thing or deep enough to restrict the flow? IOW, does it need to be fixed? If so, I'd do the entire preice, the fewer fitting the better.

I've seen and repaired any number of problems that will empty a reservoir in short order. Most on customer cars but some of mine. Rusted brake line, leaky hoses, cup and piston failures, and my favorite both front lines and shocks broken at the same time! My 16 year old self hit a ditch hard enough to bounce a 54 Coronet high enough to do that. Obviously the brakes were the first thing I engaged when the bounce stopped. Boy, was I surprised when the pedal fell to the floor. I've even had a dual totally fail when one line broke. Mitsubishi tilt cab truck with disk front drum rear. New to me but used with a lot of miles. All was fine until the front line rusted and broke. Seems the rears were so out of adjustment that they wouldn't stop it by themselves. My gets a dual. Cheaper than a stock so why not?

Just a couple of comments. first, I'd be cautious of the plastic covering. As others have mentioned, condensation is the enemy of cars. Metal and upholstery. I'd prefer a breathable cover, painters drop clothes, cheap furniture pads etc. Then, rather than starting the engine periodically, pull the plugs, oil the cylinders lightly and crank it over. put the plugs back in to seal it up. IMO, starting an engine and not getting the water and oil up to full operating temp is harmful and promotes condensation in the crankcase as well as the cylinders. Last, if possible store the battery in a heated place.

Works for me!

I see the progress bar at the bottom, click play, bar moves. But no video???

I think every load over 'x' amps should be on a relay. For me x is 5 amps. Of course one could make an exception for short duration loads, but even that can cause pitting and burning of the switch that carries the load. IMO, the desire to reduce material cost is the biggest thing driving car makers to use relays. They are cheaper than heavy gauge wire. Put the relay close to the load and use light gauge wire to trigger it. I'll do that, but no CANBUS stuff for me, that is just too far up the evolutionary chain.

I should have been more clear in my posting. The product I mentioned is not the 'removable locktite', but one that molds new threads into the hole and around the screw. The screw/bolt is installed and removed as normal but that Locktite creates a new thread for it to enter. Not quite as strong of course, but works for most light duty jobs. No head bolts, manifold bolts etc. Search for 'form-a-thread'.

I think they (Chevy and Mopar) are both 7/16x14 thread size and pitch (threads per inch). But they may or not that the same thread shape. Here:https://www.engineersedge.com/screw_threads_chart.htm is more than you ever wanted to know about the subject. Even a small detail, like rounded edge, vs pointed edge can have a bearing on the quantity of sealer needed to fill the gaps. Oops, meant to link this too: https://www.sizes.com/tools/bolts_inch_threadFit.htm

I've always doubted the stories of 'washing the oil off the walls' and such. I just can't imagine putting enough liquid ether into an engine to even wet the walls! How much would one need to spread a liquid over that much area. Never mind the fact that it evaporates almost instantly. OTOH, it is really dangerous to use in any diesel that has some sort of preheat. I've had diesels with heating elements (glowing red hot ones!) in the intake manifold, glow plugs in the combustion chamber and even one that dripped diesel onto a glowing element. Obviously those should never see ether. And some diesels have prechambers that can be damaged by ether explosions.' Bottom line, I use it and have for over 60 years with no known damage. But one has to use common sense, just a brief shot and crank to clear it out before trying again.

Before deciding I would clean the breads in the block and try the new bolts for fit. Run one in a few threads and wiggle it side to side. If they are a good snug fit, just use them as is. If they are not a good fit, add some sealer.' There are many standards for thread fit, depth, width, angle etc and I have no idea which Mopar used nor what the maker of the ones you bought are. But quality threads in the hole and on the bolt should be OK with the factory sealer. Comparing the fit of an old one to a replacement should give you some idea.

Loctite Form-a-thread may work. Not cheap, but if it solves the problem....