kencombs

I've used vaseline since the 60s. Always worked for me. First started this when working on the little aluminum Buick v8s. They had the pump in the front cover and the pickup in the rear. Factory speced a vaseline pack and without it they took forever to pickup the oil from way back there! Found that it helped with Ford y-blocks which also have a pretty long pickup tube. Vaseline will stay in place indefinetely, unlike oil which may seep away from the gear spaces when not started right away.

That configuration is used on those engines that have an internal bypass. That one has a little 'bump out' on the front of the head that covers a matching hole in the block.

Your pic seems to show 2 spacers, one under the 'stat housing and 1 on top of the water pump? If that's the case you can remove both and the bypass hose should line up. Then the rear of the head will get a heater control valve and the return side does to the water pump.

The engine moves when running and driving. The rubber protects the steel from work hardening and cracking.

AFAIK all three are adjustable on the cars. Trucks with solid axle must be bent to set camber, but caster is set with shims and toe with the tie rods.

It's hard to say impossible to say from the scant information we have and no 'feel'. IMO, first issue to resolve is it a mechanical bind in the box, linkage or kingpins? To do that I'd put it on stands and disconnect the tie rod ends at the spindles and check them for bind. The feel of each joint to ascertain if they are free to move. Then move on the box itself. If you still feel resistance with the linkage removed the box needs to be inspected. OTOH if it 'feels' like something besides mechanical binding, like feedback resistance when turning at speed, bent spindles with excess camber and/or toe way out of spec on one side can do that. That's what I referred to in my first sentence, we can't feel the things you do. Maybe a little more detail might help.

That PN is for the intake manifold only. Actually it is a casting number, which someone with the correct manuals may be able to convert to a PN. But, it will still be for the intake and will not include the exhaust.

I've always placed stands under the rear axle as far apart as possible and get a solid location. Under the front, the lower a-frames outboard of the spring seat. But be sure that your location is solid with no inclines or protrusions to prevent the stands for seating will with no possibility of slipping. Move to the frame forward of the suspension in a flat spot if any doubt.

I may be wrong, but IMO if the rear wheels are not dead vertical and parallel with each other something is bent. Axle, housing or wheels. When modifying rear axle housings great care is taken to make sure those targets are met.

Or the remote start button that I described earlier is used. Same results, two big terminals on the solenoid are bridged while cranking.

I started working on cars in earnest about 1960 Still lots of 6v vehicles around then and I have no idea how many we jumped with 12v from the wrecker. well over 100 I'm sure. In most cases we turned on the ignition and made sure the lights, radio etc were off. The do as Sam stated.

There were at least 3 maybe 4 of the 57 up differentials. I'm sure my 65 had the A body version, but I don't know what internal differences might have been beyond the casting numbers which define the body series use. Supposedly they are good, stronger, strongest. Haven't ever looked at internal PNs and interchange as my Hollander doesn't go beyond mid 50s.

Odd thing about that history from hemmings though, I had a 65 Dart back in the early 70s. 273/4bbl/4spd with the 66 cam upgrade. It came with a 3.23 differential and like a lot of guys, I was looking for better acceleration. I found a 55 Chrysler in Dad's salvage with a 3.55. Bear in mind that the Dart had flanged axles while the 55 still had the tapered version. Checking things over I found that the side gears in the two had different splines and the rear ujoint didn't match. But I was able to swap the side gears from the 65 into the 55 as well as the ujoint yoke. Only real difference was the use of an adjuster to set end play instead of shims. Point being, while the 'real' 8.75 didn't appear until 57 I think, there was a lot of the earlier DNA in them. Outside of drag strip I've never seen one broken, worn out maybe but never a catastrophic failure.

The network software is totally separate from the applications software. The network implementation may well bar communications, but the application and database software may still be the same. Not saying it positively, but there sure are lots of commonalities, even in the web stuff. Businesses seldom write their own, it's expensive and requires skills normally outside their skillset. Much cheaper to buy the package and pay the vendor to build and screen interface.

I suspect all the systems have the same data as their source, and maybe even the same software, with some individual features. Probably bought from the same software creator. I'm amazed at how much better Rock Auto is though. It's probably the whole package without the other stores changes.

Regarding my post above, I'm not familiar with that specific switch, but a lot of older vehicles with starter buttons had a simple 3 post switch. Bat/ign/Acc. So swapping the last two will cause the exact symptoms the OP sees. Lots of industrial and farm machines are that way also.

I've been following this with interest. Short dies will probably distort the edge as already mentioned, but that can be minimized by stopping short of a full bend. Go full length of the repair, then do it over and over a little at a time, overlapping the dies position each time. If you have an acetylene torch it can help by relieving the stress between press passes. I've done something similar on my shop press. It sorta works but I'll bet you will be wishing for a air over hyd jack before you're done! I know I got really tired of pumping and releasing over and over and over and.....

Miswired, but probably only two wires need to be swapped. The accessory and ignition posts. That is assuming everything else works as it should.

It may be a combination of adjustment/alignment of the e-brake coupled with a fluid leak from the rear seal. Just like wheel brakes, oils on the lining will cause grabbing. Counterintuitive, but slick oil makes them stick!

Lots of good advice here. Removing as much rust as possible by mechanical means is best IMO. I use a cup brush also, 6" on my big grinder, 3" on smaller grinders, regular wire wheels (not cup), maybe a little media blast in crevices, whatever gets you to mostly clean with some you just can't convince to come off. The rust and paint removald disks on a little grinder work well. these are also available in smaller sizes for die grinders and drills. Then apply Ospho or similar. I vary from others advice at that point as I'm a big fan of Epoxy primer applied with a brush on horizontal surfaces. Since it cures, not drys, heavy deposits still become firm all the way to the bottom fairly quickly. Some drying paints will take forever to do that. Epoxy is much more flexible than some of the miracle products and doesn't chip. After that cover all seams with a sealer. The sealer is after the epoxy 'cause the epoxy fills small crevices better. I don't use the expensive sealer, just the solvent based tubes from Auto Zone, that's about all I buy there. Then apply a sound deadener and insulation of your liking. Lots of choices there too. Some swear by peel and stick flashing from the home stores, some swear at it. Most of the stuff made for cars is either butyl or tar based, like flashing. Other choices are the available. I just pick what fits the vehicle and my budget. My truck will get at least 3-4 different kinds, roof cab walls, floor, firewall under seat will have different finished. May try Snipers suggestion above.

Well, I learned to drive on a 58 Ford, new drivers ed car at school, Dad's car that I learned most on was a 54 Dodge, then 57 Plymouth. I don't remember seeing a seat belt in any car in the wild until the early '60s and that was rare. I know Ford offered them in either 55 or 56, but optional and few takers. Dad's new Fury III in 65 had them, So not different parents, different age.

Yes I was speaking about the human moving, not the car. The early shoulder belts were almost never used as you described as most folks didn't like the restriction. So, they donned them loose enough to reach the radio, heater controls etc. Thus the movement I mentioned. Even worse, due to lack of education and laws, most were worn under the drivers rear! Being a new driver well before lap or shoulder belts, I didn't develop the buckle up habit until much later. And, it still isn't automatic for me. Sometimes I find myself buckling as I drive after realizing I forgot to do so.

I'm kinda on the fence with catalog vs computer. It all depends on the quality of the computer info first. Did they digitize all of the catalog info, or just the application and p/n? If they skipped the dimension info that's bad news! That is where the paper version shown, not just a bearing number for instance, but it's ID/OD/Width. Second is the quality of the computer app used to access the data. If it allows searching in something other that make,model,year it can be better than the book. If not, more bad news. For instance when searching for a heater core I found no way to search the computer data at Orielly's even though the size information is in the data base. For example look at the online catalogs from bearing companies. No M/M/Y required, just specs. Done correctly the computer version could be faster and more accurate than paper. Unfortunately creating such code is expensive and has limited use as most parts sold are not for our type of vehicles, but late model daily drivers. FWIW , The online info at Rockauto is just about as good as it gets. Compared to Orielly's, Advance etc it is outstanding. Another example of good design is the way John Deere has done there app. Not only can you find the PN you need by M/M/Y ( and s/n ) but you can use the PN to identify every application of that PN in other JD equipment. That would be equivalent to using a trans gear PN to identify other Mopars that could be donors. Really nice when dealing with used parts!

I used to use lye, (or Drano as it is almost pure lye) as a stripper and cleaner. But it has become really hard to buy locally in bulk. Even hardware stores keep it locked up or hidden away. Apparently it is a precursor chemical for some meth recipes.' I have a restaurant quality two burner countertop electric range and a stainless pan that just fits both burners. Makes a great mini-hot tank, when I can find the chemicals. Grease, oil, paint, it all comes off with time and 210 degrees in there. A quick soak in vinegar, and even the rust is gone.