kencombs

I'm surprised that the industrial line of 218/230 engines were never made with full flow filtering. Especially since the 25" ind's were often found with them and the smaller ones were made up into the 70s. Has anyone ever encountered a forklift, aircraft tug etc with the shorter engine and full flow? I never have for sure. But my 230 will have one.

I had to read Sniper's answer before I realized that you didn't mispell wierd! Middle finger, wrong hand, common for a touch typist. 'word recalcitrant' makes much more sense than weird.

The soft metal issue, along with use of 'expand' rather flare in the amazon links description makes me think they are talking about expanding a length of tube for a slip fit for joining two sections. I have a die for that on one of my older sets, works on copper but with difficulty. I'd bet the writer of that is has neither first hand knowledge of the tool nor has English as his/her first language. Converting technical/trade knowledge to 'everyday' language is hard enough if the source and the audience share the same language.

I had the same thought, each and every time I glanced at the title. Maybe 'cause I'm old.

Not brakes, hydraulics. Small front loader and rear 3pt.

True of 218/230 and some long blocks. But some 251 and 265 had factory full flow systems. And my 230 will be full flow if I ever get it installed. Retrofit of course, installed by me but copied from another member's design.

No Not all 37deg stuff is AN. JIC is 37 also. Usually, not always, AN fittings will be aluminum while JIC are steel or stainless. Either are good for much more pressure than our brakes will ever see. Not all AN/JIC is DOT approved, but some are. The DOT approval doesn't specify materials but does have a very rigorous test process that must be done to gain approval. The cost of that process is why most of them aren't approved. The DOT approved 37deg stuff is many times more expensive that the others. As far as I can tell there is no DOT approval or regulation for or against 37deg hard lines, just the flexible parts. I have a need for 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8" 37deg tooling for a tractor project and will probably use 1/4 for my brake hard lines. Fortunately, inspection is not an issue in OK as we scrapped that worthless law many years back. All it proved in our implementation was that the vehicle had adequate brake pedal and tread depth, all lights and wipers worked, ONE DAY of the year. My Dad owned a salvage from 1960 though 1990. An untold number of wrecks went in and out of inventory during that time. Not one was caused by a defective vehicle. OTOH, a high school classmate was killed by a driver with no brakes who ran a stop sign and broadsided the car she was in. The car had a valid inspection sticker. The problem with our law was that the original procedure spelled out in the law required far to much labor to execute for the statutory pricing. So, shortcuts were taken and eventually no shops would sign up to be inspection stations. Lawmakers looked at the alternatives, raise the price, get the state into the inspection business or drop it.

Another flare tool question. I have a good old style set but would like a 37deg male end. Anyone know of a source? And/or a complete 38deg that won’t break the bank. id like to add that capability up to 3/8 tube size. Takes more parts but seems easier to do JIC/AN than doubles

Reaming and filing the end straight are key to making good flares along with a little lube. lots of lube choices but I just use what will be in the tube when installed. Unless it’s water!

Rule I've always followed and it hasn't failed me yet. Look at the vacuum advance unit on the distributor, turn the distributor in the direction it points to advance. Visualize what that unit is doing in operation, high vacuum pulls the point plate toward the vacuum line to advance timing. That's worked on everything with a vacuum unit, GM, Ford, Mopar, Datsun (remember those), etc, 8s, v8s, six, all the same.

Lots of choices, I usually use 1000 or 1500 grit wet or dry for such things, just because I always have some handy.

I think you'll be fine. Don't recall ever seeing a factory drum/drum setup with a proportioning valve. The only question I have is the possible lack of a residual pressure valve in both ports of the Toyota. Maybe locate an exploded view of the one you're using?

6.2V isn't even battery voltage when charged. So it is clearly too low. A fully charged cell is 2.16volts. 3x that is about 6.4. And voltage must be above battery voltage to charge. IMHO, Either your regulator is bad, or there are some really bad connections somewhere as generators generally work or not. Could your belt be slipping, pulley worn and letting it bottom out or ?

Just be aware that most modern spin-on filters are not nearly as good at catching smaller particles compared to the bypass cartridges. But, there are spin on filters designed for bypass filtering. Most are found on diesels. 80s Mitsubishi Fuso trucks are one source for such. They have two filters, one for the full flow circuit and a second that filters the bypassed oil before returning it to the oil pan.

Common to find different types in aftermarket kits. as long as it fits it will be fine.

IMO, the 1deg difference is the way to go. Narrow the seat from both directions as needed to place the contact in the middle of the valve face. After doing that and a light lap to indicate proper seating all around and the difference is usually gone. The seat is so narrow and the angle so small, the lapping removes almost all of the 'gap'. Using stones as the tool makes it easy as the stone dresser will allow you to change the same stone from 45 to 46 and reverse. Even 45 to 30 if needed. Just do that carefully as it easy to knock the diamond off the dresser if you try to remove too much at once.

Not knowing the actual rear end ratio but guessing 4.10 or lower, 50-55 would be comfortable for you and it.

My understanding is that the semi-spherical washers are to positively locate the manifold with regard to the ports. Without them the manifold can move in two directions a slight amount. edit: Just to clarify, I'm referring to the brass washers used in a few of places, not the funny slotted and tapered steel ones. Those are a type of low torque but effective lock nuts.

I should do that, but don't always. Way back in the late 50s my uncle was a rep for a distributor that provided parts to a lot of accounts in and near KS. One of the lines they carried was Lawnboy repair stuff. He could also get deals on mowers from one of his wholesale accounts so Dad bought a new one. I wore out a couple of engines on that thing! Dad had a 1/2 city block and I mowed a number of lawns besides that. So it ran several day weekly. One of the things he recommended when he brought us the mower new, was to turn off the gas and let the carb empty, every time it was used. Remember that iteration of Lawnboys were all two strokes with diaphragm carbs. Over several years we never had carb problems. The thinking was that gas in the tank was ok, but not in the carb. Probably true back BA, (before alcohol). And when I wore the engine down to really low compression, he got a brand new short block from Evinrude/Johnson for under 25 bucks! If we had had today's ashless two stroke oils they would have lasted longer.

Maybe up the idle speed a tad, and definitely open the idle mixture a quarter turn each, maybe another 1/4 if that helps but doesn't fix it completely. I don't think the off-idle stumble is related to vacuum advance timing, but a degree or two initial may help. The vacuum advance only works after the engine comes up to speed and the vacuum rises. On initial opening it will drop sharply, then increase.

Years ago I had a reverse issue. My light was 6v, really ancient but great quality. So I used a 6v lantern battery to run it. In today's world, I think the correct number of 18650 cells in a home-made tubular holder would be perfect. Rechargeable, but in timing use probably would need that only every 5 years or so. And they don't discharge when not in use.

Yes, our knowledge of oils and all things mechanical has increased in the last 70some years. Thus changing recommendations.

If your pistons are usable the cups should be available at most any good parts store. Dorman and others make generic cups in many sizes.

IMHO, the reason for the ND recommendation way back when was due to the lack of adequate filtration. Think about the ring seating we hear so much about. That comes about through wear. H the high spots of the cast block and rings wear down to improve fit. All those cast particles are in the oil. Detergent keeps them in suspension longer than ND. Any stuff in the oil will circulate until it is finally routed through the bypass filter. And those are the reasons mine is getting plumbed for a full flow filter. And will get a 100 and 500 mile oil change.