joecoozie

This is a long shot but worth a try and I may get laughed at but......... while you have the power on to the wiper motor try to tap it with a handle of a hammer. Maybe it's just hung up. Also, try to move the arm linkages. They can get hung up, too.

https://p15-d24.com/topic/48121-1949-chrysler-hood-hinge-spring-installation/

Soft rubber mallet, yes

I couldn't tell you exactly what I used but I think it was 3M Adhesive. It accomplishes both tasks of holding the cap centered AND holding it tight against the cap so when the edge(s) are peaned you get a good,snug fit - which would prove to be a difficult task without adhesive unless you made some kind of a press to pean the edges - similar to what the factory did.

I did replace the skins on my hubcaps several years ago. What I did was remove the old skin by prying the "lip" up. Then I sandblasted the metal hubcap to get a nice smooth surface - then I primed them to prevent rust. I then installed the new "skins" (which I believe were $40.00 each) by using a strong adhesive which I let dry - then I peaned the edge to wrap around the cap. I have yet to install the "new" hubcaps on my car - they are still in the box. I know $100.00 each is a lot of money BUT....if you rechromed yours it would probably be about the same cost (or more???) BUT...then you have to paint the CHRYSLER script lettering - which never seems to look good. It isn't very difficult but it is time consuming. Centering the skin is probably the most difficult part of the process.

t

You can remove the entire front floor pan and do it from the top (inside the car).

v

Try posting your question here: https://p15-d24.com/forum/6-mopar-flathead-truck-forum/

2nd: Anyone knows the use for these round socket? Speaker connection?

That is the Sisson choke for the carb. It looks like it is disconnected (electrically)

Is that a crack in the bellhousing where the threaded hole is for that bolt or is it just grease/dirt buildup? Also, after you cut the bolt (like Sniper said), you may need to jack up the transmission (slightly) in order to get the bolt and the hole lined up.

This one is a bit clearer

Here's the wiring diagram if anyone wants to look at it.

Get under the car, or if the floor is out go from the top, and "manually" shift the car into neutral by moving the levers on the transmission by hand Or, if you don't want to do that just jack up the rear so the tires are off the ground

I would guess at least 40+++ years old at the time. They certainly were not newly manufactured when I bought them

Just my experience..... I installed, on my 47 Chrysler, NOS seat covers that not only look amazing (no wrinkles, tears, etc) but they are as fresh as the day they were made. This was at least 15 years ago and they still are like new. And I did the install myself - I am/was a noob when I did it. Just took my time and they look like they were factory/dealer installed. The ONLY reason I put them on is because my T & C Sedan has the original vinyl/saran interior (white no less) and I wanted to preserve it.

No problem

https://www.ebay.com/itm/225869822450?fits=Make%3AChrysler&hash=item3496e3f9f2:g:ZY8AAOSw3mdlUlm3&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8LMMzYakIEdiwOehAezg0jvvuGtKcoTqrOpoZkxauaUmx9QePgM3c0qRaNQXLlzLuoNXsXrJn5SoXCFGGbrA3GVivtjnQ4fMZbqJ2%2FYhCssFUTR1EQfWhuNJvM0vVH9LQ69dG3aoRj%2BC1Yd1IQcY%2FH%2BMJ3C3nMxip3kz9rl1Okzygzd%2FxVzq2SPswEqQr9bdyv%2BZZeuFnHLCK5u6rKEJD4kfR85rgrCsSu9ZGieduePgB%2FQ6GwJJNO2PfJElmGqTp%2BkD05HdGnEkSC0fbz61a%2B1skmb3bSzZoEx7gg02IgzUuMf1Xzahpg0exa0fFkYlYQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6yz_sf6Yg

If the only issue you are having, as seen in the one picture, is that the seams have let go maybe an upholstery shop can fix that and you will have the original material still intact. You may also find NOS seat covers if you search around. I found some for my 48 Chrysler and they are hog ringed in place so they are permanent

Could it be wired incorrectly, too?

Agree 1000%

Nice looking car. The seat uphostery is not original. It is either reuphostered or there are seat covers over the original material.