TodFitch

One fellow I know moved to Paradise from the greater SF Bay area maybe 5 or so years ago. He had a '37 Plymouth and a bunch of A body slant 6 vehicles at the time he moved. Not sure what he had when the fire started but I've learned that everything he had burned. Both he and his wife were able to get out safely though which was the important thing.

I used to put loose change in my pocket and then into a jar on the dresser in the evening. End result is I had lots of change and was always getting more. My solution is to have no change jar. My wallet has a small zippered pocket on the outside which I now put any change I receive. Result is I usually have change for cash purchases on hand and I seldom carry more than a dollars worth around. If it gets to be more than that then the wallet starts to bulge and becomes uncomfortable to have in my pocket which reminds me to offer exact change on the next purchase I make.

Just as a reminder: Offers for parts, even as an unsolicited reply on a thread are not allowed outside of the classified section. You can, of course, PM the person you think might like some of the parts you have too.

Nice work!

The local county's registrar of voters website shows that they received my completed ballot at 10:32:38 AM on 10/17/2018. Here in California they stopped calling them "absentee ballots" (which used to have all sorts of hurdles like proving you were going to be out of state on election day) and they are now simply mail in or ballots by mail and are available to everyone. I don't understand why everyone doesn't select that method of voting. Quick, easy, do it in your own house, no need to take time off work, etc.

In California, yes: I got a bolt on tab to place the modern registration stickers. OTOH, you can do YOM on plates newer than 1963 now and those '63 and up plates have a place to put stickers so I don't know if they issue tabs when you do the YOM paperwork.

In California the motor vehicle code is silent on whether they can be restored or not. The wording is ". . . if the model-year date license plate is legible and serviceable, as determined by the department. . ." I haven't seen anything about what the DMV has internally on how they interpret that clause in the law. I took the safe way and got the YOM paperwork done with unrestored plates. I guess that would only work if your unrestored plates are in reasonably good condition. FWIW, the California YOM is different from, I think, from all other states in that it is basically a vanity plate for which you pay the full regular registration and a "special plate fee" every year. So it costs you more to have YOM plates on your car than regular series plates. Since you are paying "full fare", the state places no driving restrictions on the car. Your insurance company may have driving limits, but the state doesn't.

If you are dealing with a relatively modern car, then they make ODBII plug-in GPS devices specifically for this. The advertising I've seen seems to target parents of teenage drivers. If you are dealing with an older car without ODBII, then I think FlashBuddy is on the right track.

I purchased a tool kit that included the proper counterbore drill bit and a rivet set. I don't recall what vendor, it was probably a Model A or Model T Ford vendor. It is amazing how fuzzy my memory is on this, but I think I clamped the lining in place and then drilled through the existing holes in the band from the outside. Once I had through holes I removed the lining and came in from the inside with the counter bore. Using a proper rivet set made it pretty easy to install the rivets.

I think a lot of the stuff that Don had was purchased by a fellow in Fresno: http://www.globeclassiccarparts.com pflaming can probably give you more information about that as he is pretty local to the Fresno area.

If the '35 is like the '33, removing the column from the steering gear box isn't really possible, at least not while things are in the car. The hex flats near the box are actually used to set bearing preload/lash. There may be other ways, but I've always used a puller to get the pitman arm off the steering gear box.

Concur about the serial numbers. For what it is worth, here is what my serial/VIN decoder has for the car: Serial Number 7099948 Found in range 7094001 to 7118581 Serial 5948 of 24581 Year 1949 Make Chrysler Model Name New Yorker Model Code C46-2 Engine 8 cylinder 323.5 cu. In. L-head Wheelbase 131 1/2 inches If you do get the "build card" from Chrysler Historical it will probably have the dealer the car was shipped to. At least the build card for my car has that. The Tesla factory in Fremont was formerly a joint GM/Toyota plant. I believe the Chrysler plant was in San Leandro a bit further north up the bay.

If I've transcribed things in to my database correctly, information on the '35 Plymouth rear axle seals should be at https://www.ply33.com/Parts/group3#3-F And it looks like the '34 and '35 use the same seal. Not sure how much different that is from the '33 but the '33 and '34 are very similar beasts mechanically so the actual seal may be the same. Anyway, the '34 and '35 part number for the service package (seal and gasket) is 891439 https://www.ply33.com/Parts/group3#891439 while the seal alone is 618240. Looks like the gasket is the same as for 1933. I wonder what the difference between the '33 and '34 seals is. . . For what its worth, I documented the replacement of the old style leather seal with a modern on at https://www.ply33.com/Repair/axle_seal/

Agree with this. . . Look carefully at the surface on the hub/drum that the seal rides on and verify that it is smooth. On my '33 I had one that I had to install a speedi-sleeve on to keep the seal from failing immediately.

I moved to California before meeting my bride so I have less of an excuse than you. Its a big state and depending on where you live there are different pluses and minuses. Where I am now the daytime temperatures seldom get out of the 70s F, I can walk to the beach and drive to the local mountains for skiing. Not many places in the world can provide that combination.

I moved from the SF South Bay area to a So. Calif. beach town a couple years ago. I'd say the Bay Area drivers are better than the LA metro area drivers. Or maybe everywhere has bad drivers, just that the style of bad driving varies by location and you get used to the bad style where you are and compensate for it. Then when you visit some other place their particular bad style seems frightening as you are not anticipating it and automatically making compensations to mitigate the dangers. On advantage of the SF Bay Area over the LA Metro Area is that it is more compact: You don't have to drive your old vehicle as far before you can get to some pretty nice scenic back roads compared to LA.

I don't recall the traffic as being that horrible when I visited Rome but that was a while back and things might have changed. Visited Delhi this summer: Drivers there are far worse than I recall in Italy. Makes any differences between, say, a bad NYC driver and the best from anywhere else in the States seem trivial.

At least you had the good sense to get out of there and return to Nebraska ! But apparently not the sense to stay out: pflaming's location shows as Reedley, California.

I think some of the tolerance for long distance driving is both individual and age related. Back in the 1980s I routinely drove my '82 Plymouth the 1000 miles between my house and my sister's non-stop and that was the era of the 55 MPH speed limit. I have a more comfortable car now but doing that drive non-stop does not seem as appealing to me.

I think 1939 was the first year for the two wire fuel gauge used through 1948. It takes a different type of sending unit that earlier or later cars, did you get the correct sender?

@'36 Glasstruck Your post is perilously close to being considered a request for parts. Remember: All buy/sell requests must be in the classified ad area. There are a number of rebuilders of the old Delco-Lovejoy shocks. There might be some cheaper than A-1 in Santa Ana. In addition there is an on going thread on the AACA forums on the restoration of a '32 Dodge with similar shocks where the owner figured out how to rebuild them himself. Sorry I am not pointing to the beginning of the area on the shock restoration, you'll have to read through the 66 pages on the thread for yourself.

If it is like my '33, the two straps have a fold over with the short end of the fold over against the tank. The folded over part of the straps go through some slots at the back of the frame cross member. To the front of the tank there are to round holes on the frame cross member, the threaded part of the straps go through that and a nut on the end holds them in place. There is supposed to be some canvas between the straps and the tank. I would guess maybe some canvas above the tank too where it is pressed into the frame cross member but if there was it was long gone from my car. Sorry, I don't see photos in my album that clearly show this.

It isn't extra: It is the spring as the flexible conductor is just that, a conductor not a spring.

Water pump on order? Are you sure that is what you need? Has the block been thoroughly cleaned out (core plugs removed and some vigorous poking and prodding to loosen things when flushing)?

For about the last 40 years I've used some cotton clothes line cord, about 1/4" in diameter cut to length. Seems like the clothes line cord I've seen recently has a nylon core so I am not sure how good it would be regarding compressibility, etc.