TodFitch

More likely that the state registered with the year when it first sold.

Concur with Plymouthy's reply. You may want to look at my serial number/VIN web page. The "calculator" on the top right will show the plant your car was assembled in and about how far through the production run it was.

Parts offered must be via PM or in the classifieds.

Because I'm frugal and fairly technically adept, I moved our "land line" to Voice Over IP (VoIP) many years ago. Our house phone bill averages about $6/mo which is cheaper than the $20/mo AT&T were getting from from us ten years ago before we switched. One of the benefits of the VoIP provider I use is that they have "call treatments" I can setup. It would make it trivial to arrange things so only people in my address book can actually call the number. I don't actually go that far, but if you are not in my address book you will get what my provider calls a "telemarketer block": You get a voice prompt to dial a number to continue. Turns out the automated dialers don't (yet) know how to listen to and follow instructions so they don't get through.

Reminder: Offers for sale need to be in the classified area or if directed to a particular person via PM.

1-5-3-6-2-4 Should be in the reference section of this website and in any shop manual.

Sometimes the moderator doesn't recognize things right away. . .

The one Chet had on his website was the 1936-48 Plymouth Master Parts book published by Chrysler. Each section was a separate PDF. I don't know if I didn't bother downloading or if Chet did not have it on the site, but the front cover and intro pages on my copy are missing and that is where any copyright information would have been located. So I can't tell you what the copyright status is.

Makes me glad that I printed and bound a copy of all those PDFs a number of years ago. Alas, I did not keep copies of the PDF files themselves so I can't make them available to you. Chet is, or at least was until very recently, relatively active on posting progress on the restoration of his four cylinder Plymouth with posts on the (almost morbid) forum at https://www.plymouthowners.club/talk/index.php so you might be able to contact him for access to the files. In the meantime I assume you are asking about part type code 23-06-10 "Glove Box DOOR Ass'y". Looks like the P14 used part 998979. The P15 (except Conv. Cpe.) used 1152459, the P15 Conv. Cpe. used part 1152325. I suspect that you are wondering if the parts are interchangeable. I don't think the parts book will tell you that as any difference in trim or finish will result in a different part number even if the physical size, shape, hinge, latch mechanism, etc. are all the same. For that information you will probably have to rely on information from people who've looked closely at both.

Stating that a 1950 Plymouth Suburban was the first all steel station wagon is, according to you, a "factiod". As a point of fact/factlet/point of trivia it is apparently wrong. A factoid is a false statement presented as a fact, it was coined by Norman Mailer to describe things that people treat as facts but are actually false. The "oid" ending gives it away (asteroid is like a star (appears in the night sky like a star) but not a star, humaniod is like a human but not a human, etc.).

"Ironhead"? First I recall hearing that term. Intake are siamesed (one port for two cylinders), each exhaust has its own port (for better cooling).

I probably ought to simply delete this post and the others that reference it: Parts dealing should be in the classified ad area or by PM.

Hate to admit it, but "been there, done that" on an early drive after I got the '33 all back together. I don't recall any noise leading up to the event though. Fortunately for me, it happened at very low speed and there was no body damage done.

I suspect it is more expensive than making butterflies from regular adhesive tape.

Been on a few Amtrak trains over the years, in general I find it a relaxing way to go. Just don't expect to arrive on time as they are at the whim of the freight railroads which prioritize freight trains over passenger traffic. On a long distance train I'd allow an extra day at your destination for late arrival. The ones I've been on go on generally more scenic routes than the freeway which makes them a good way to see the country. The Coast Daylight between LA and San Jose is great. I haven't been through the Sierra by train but years ago took one between Salt Lake and Denver which has some incredible scenery. Should be a nice way to cross the country on a relaxed vacation.

Sounds like an urban legend to me: The lottery people will report the income to the tax people regardless so that is not a reason to put the proceeds in a bank. And I am guessing that the lottery proceeds will be by check or electronic transfer that will require it going through a bank anyway. From what I've read, it does seem that those winning a significant sum on the lottery often end up losing it all for one reason or another and end up in a worse position than they started. So I agree that not flaunting it is a good idea. Not that I'll ever be in a position to personally know as I don't buy lottery tickets. But if you feel inclined to mail me your winning ticket I probably wouldn't decline it. ? With respect to a safe in the house, I knew a fellow who was pretty well off who wanted/needed a safe at home. He did not trust that the people working for the delivery firm wouldn't be casing the house. He decided that he did not want the people selling the safe or their delivery people to know where he lived, so he paid cash and rented a truck to bring it home himself. He had a number of sons so he could rustle up enough trustworthy manpower to wrestle it off the truck and into the house.

You got the wrong sending unit for your car. The two wire system is quite different from the single wire system and you can't make the sender for one work on the other. Not sure of the current suppliers for the correct one but maybe someone else will chime in.

Came out of a restaurant once to see a couple of men approaching my '33 Plymouth. They backed off really quick when our Akita popped her head up from the back seat. . .

My guess, emphasize guess: Hex headed self-tapping metal screw. Its got a hexagonal head From reading the parts books, my impression is that a machine screw has threads all the way to the head whilst a bolt is not threaded all the way up. The threaded portion looks designed for sheet metal but does not have the self-drilling feature of some.

Been through a 6.8 but the scale is logarithmic so a 7.2 is a much, much bigger event. Not sure I'd ever want to ride one that size out. Glad to here that casper50 survived unscathed, my heart goes out to those that are less fortunate.

Maybe. The HF version apparently has a peak read function so that should show what you applied through the bending beam torque wrench. Of course you'd have to trust the value given by the gizmo. FWIW, the HF version looks the same as the one posted earlier in this thread other than having a "Quinn" name on it. It wouldn't surprise me if they all come from the same Chinese factory. Now I am thinking how I could rig a test setup to see how accurate a torque read you get. Got to be simple and fool proof as I am getting to be more of a fool and simpleton as I get older.

Good to know. . . Sorry for my misunderstanding.

This looks like an interesting device. I assume it is using an electronic strain gauge on the shaft between the input and output. If so, then with decent electronics, it should be pretty accurate and probably stay accurate. I should to look into those a bit more.

I've been seeing a number of announcements in various forums about new ads being placed in the classified ads area. Most of them quote the ad verbatim. I am treating those announcements as ads themselves and an attempt to bypass the forum rules about where ads can be posted. I am summarily deleting the announcements about ads on sight.

I pretty much learned my mechanic skills working on my '33 Plymouth using the "Instruction Manual" that came with the car as a guide. There are absolutely no torque specifications published for that era car. Without torque specs who needs a torque wrench? When I got to the engine, I decided to follow the torque specs given for slightly newer versions of the engine. And that is about all I've ever used my torque wrench for. Any "click type" torque wrench can get out of spec but the bending beam type is by its very design going to stay calibrated forever barring some horrible abuse (cutting, filing or torching the beam). And they are also cheaper. So, of course, that is what I got those many years ago and still have.