TodFitch

That is a serial number for a 1933 Plymouth PC. From my serial number look up: Serial Number 1814303 Found in range 1759001 to 1817044 Serial 55303 of 58044 Year 1933 Make Plymouth Model Name Six Model Code PC Plant Detroit Engine 6 cylinder 189.8 cu.in. L-head Wheelbase 107 inches To the best of my knowledge, the only place that number appeared on the car was on the serial number tag on the door hinge post. If that tag is missing or looks altered, then you may have a very difficult time with your local motor vehicle department.

What does the registration paperwork show for the "VIN"? Sometimes these old cars were registered with the engine number, sometimes with the serial number. Engines were often swapped out, in your case the serial number plate is missing. If you acquire this car it will be very much easier for you if some official factory number on the car matches the paperwork.

That doesn't match any code I know about for 1933 Plymouths. The first part might have been a paint or trim code but the second part would also need to be a 3 digit number for that to make sense. Any idea where this code came from (plate on the car? parts book?, etc.) Edit: The serial number plate should be on the right (passenger) side front door hinge post. The engine number should be on a raised boss on the block above the generator, it may also be stamped on the frame between the running board supports on the driver side. There is also a body number tag on the engine side of the firewall. All are different. See https://www.ply33.com/Misc/vin

Please keep this discussion civil and on a technical level.

I'd test them first (large diameter wire from high current source like a charged starter battery). If they work okay, then leave them be. I've not had later ones apart but I had the one on my '33 apart and can tell you that for such a seemingly simple device they are quite touchy on getting them re-assembled and adjusted properly.

Factory style oil filters are mounted on the engine so there should be no motion between the filter, the tap off the main oil gallery, and the return valve. So hard lines should be fine and are what were used from the factory. The return valve setup is supposed to restrict flow when the oil pressure in the gallery drops, so I don't think an additional restriction on the inlet to a bypass filter is needed. All bets on the above are off if you are installing some sort of filter designed for full flow.

All request for parts should be by PM or in the classified ads area.

My minimal tool kit, always on my person, is a AAA+ membership card and a cellphone. I’ve actually used these more with my modern car than with my old Plymouth. For the Plymouth, if I can’t fix the issue with the limited spare parts and tools that I carry in the car (spare light bulbs, spare tire, jack, tire iron, and a took roll with adjustable wrench, screw driver and pliers), then it is easy to get the car home as long as I’m within the 100 mile range of towing the AAA+ gives me. If not within 100 miles of home, I am likely to be within 100 miles of a town with a decent auto supply and a motel.

Original request was in the "Ebay, Craigslist and External Site Referrals" area which may have somewhat hidden it from view. I've merged both threads and put the result in the normal car side forum.

I feel your pain! Been there, done that with some of the Internet services I provide for a couple of organizations. Thanks so much for creating this site and keeping it running smoothly. Not an easy task.

Sorry to hear you are at that point. Best of luck in finding the right buyer! As a moderator I guess I have to say "please repost in the classified ad area."

No, it was directed at a different user. Maybe I should have sent them a PM after editing their post. But it was easier for me to do a general reminder in the thread.

Gentle reminder: Please to not offer or ask for parts in the general forums. Use the classified ad area or PM as appropriate.

Please take offer of parts or services off line via the personal message (PM) facility.

Remember: No offers of parts for sale on the general forums. Either PM if you wish to notify a single person you have something they might want or put the offer into the classified ads area.

Inspection first. I think they were still using the “mechanical” temp gauge on your car. See if the capillary tube has been damaged. The way it works is there is a bulb filled with ether in the head. As the engine warms up the ether tries to evaporate and in doing so builds up pressure in the capillary tube. The dash unit is basically a pressure gauge.

Reminder: No asking for or offering parts in the general forums. Use PM and/or the classified area for that.

I haven't noticed any significant difference in life between the 6v battery in my old car and any newer car with a 12v battery. I suspect any difference would be due to how it is used (long periods of storage) rather than the number of cells it has.

I've known people who were on the road in old cars to drive all day (hundreds of miles) with a dead generator. The ignition system doesn't draw all that much power. Heck, I had the alternator on a '82 Plymouth go out in the middle of the night driving I-15 west/south of Las Vegas. Pulled over and slept until daylight then drove the remaining 150 to 200 miles home on the battery alone. Not sure I'd attempt that on a more modern car with more electronics, but even that '82 had an ECU. But the other comments about the myriad things that could go be wrong with an unknown to you car should be heeded. If you are very confident that you have the tools and knowledge to do a decent safety check on the car before driving it (especially brakes, steering and suspension) then it could be an adventure. If you have any doubts about that, then getting it trailered to your house would be the wise decision.

Don't know if the new ones have sealed ball bearings or not. On the original style pump with bushings I had no end of trouble with them wearing out quite quickly. I finally figured out I was setting the belt tension way too tight. On my car the weight of the generator is just about right for setting the tension, just tighten the adjustments after letting the generator set the tension by its weight. That is tight enough that I haven't noticed any slippage at either the generator or water pump and the pump goes many, many more miles before having an issue. I suppose that if the new pumps have roller bearings they'd be able to handle side load better. But while the inside of my pump is the same as all the later ones the housing for '33 and '34 is different so a newly manufactured pump is not an option for me. I just have two housings that I get rebuilt, one on the car the other on the shelf ready for use.

I could share my opinions on why the old Golden State Region died. But they'd just be opinions. I hope for the best for this new effort. And since I now live in south Orange County I am actually in the initial target area.

I figured there would be a YouTube video on fitting an old bulls eye lens to a more modern reflector and H4 bulb setup. But apparently the term "bulls eye" or "bullseye" is now being used for projector style headlights and there are an overwhelming number of hits showing how to upgrade your newer car to use them. I am guessing there is are howto videos out there, but finding one through all the other hits hasn't work for me yet.

Hmmm. I count 5 letters. Not sure why you see the need to post this. For what its worth the Prius has been top on a bunch of lists for reliability and low cost of ownership. And, of course, they get great gas mileage. So if you want basic, economical transportation it might be a car for you. But, of course, the way it was marketed and its general lack of sporting operation or its odd styling can be a turn off to many, especially those who consider themselves to be "car people". Still why the negative post? Back a bit more on topic: I was under the impression that many/most current production vehicles have electric power assist. Is there anything that makes the unit from the Prius better for a swap than equivalent units from other vehicles? Since the original link is to Facebook which I won't go to, I guess I can't read the original write up to see what the reason(s) behind the choice was.

There might be room for more than one person in the corner.

I know about that website.