TodFitch

Best Gasket lists their part 5076 as a kit for 1940-56 Chrysler products. They don't sell to individuals but you should be able to get that through any retailer who carries the brand. My local better auto supply carries them, so check with your local place. http://www.bestgasket.com/dt_pop_up_picture.asp?PartNumber=5076 Barring that, try Olsen Gaskets. http://www.olsonsgaskets.com/

Looted? What is happening at that museum? Only been there once about 10 years ago and found it a very good museum. It would be a shame if it wasn't being kept up.

For liability reasons, I don't recommend anything. But seems like filling the inside of the tank with an inert gas like C02 would be a good idea. My local Smart & Final store sells dry ice and I've heard that many other grocery stores are starting to sell it too. Drop a couple of chunks of that into the tank and it shouldn't take too long to reduce oxygen content of the "air" inside the tank. For what it is worth, I've only filled pin holes in a gas tank once. I used a very heavy duty soldering iron and a strong flux and cleaner. Had a hard time getting it to wet and flow but eventually it worked. And I did not have to get sparks or flames anywhere near the tank.

Bad prep job, not properly sanded perhaps. Cool that steam cleaning showed so much original paint.

"In some parts" translates to anywhere it gets snow. Most people in California live on the coast or in the valleys and don't have a clue about driving in the snow. So at the first hint of snow sticking to the ground "chain control" goes into effect. Several levels of chain control but usually it is "R1". I've never seen "R3" as generally they just close the road by that time. From the CalTrans web site:

Rodent damage shorted the wires to one of those mini coils and fried it on my wife's 2001. Darned coil cost about the same as ten or so sets of high tension wires for my old Plymouth. Never had an ignition related failure while driving in cars equipped with points and condenser based ignition systems. So I see no reason to change out a perfectly good working design. I know that the newer cars with electronic ignition and fuel injection do a far better job of starting in cold weather and staying in tune than the old carburetor and points cars. That is something I appreciate when I head into the mountains in winter. But not something that bothers me for the old car (haven't driven it in snow since the 1970s and tuning it up every few years is no big deal). I will admit that I am considering getting a set of tire chains for the '33 and finding a serviceable set of old wood skis with bear trap bindings and showing up totally vintage at an older family oriented ski area before I get too old, so there might be some snow in the car's future. But not enough to worry about even changing the carburetor main jet much less anything else.

Cool! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christopher_Latham_Sholes

Fry's Electronics, the local electronics chain here, will typically have keyboards on sale for $10 or less on a fairly regular basis.

Interesting that they call it a mechanical vacuum pump when the photos shows an electrical connector. Can't find anything that says so, but I strongly suspect it takes 12v DC to run that unit.

My information says the '58 Plymouth should have a serial number starting with LP1 if a six or LP2 if an eight. I was under the assumption that the engine number prefixes would match the engineering code as they did in earlier years but I don't have anything to confirm or deny that.

Or, cheaper and easier yet, read GTK's recent blog post: http://p15-d24.com/blog/9/entry-15-old-technology-doesnt-always-mean-obsolete-technology/

Try Dave Stromberg at Fat Fendered Relics. I know he fabricates new stainless parts and I think he can repair old parts too.

You can down load the high(er) res version from the Internet Archive if you wish. The Lucas Olympic tread tires being sold now have a very similar pattern to that of the Brunswick tires shown in this film.

And interesting that all the other cars are totally silent. Methinks whoever posted the video dubbed in the sound. Especially since there is one point where all the cars slow down for what shows to be an intersection a bit later and the engine sounds have nothing to do with the change in speeds. I am guessing that was shot by a professional (well exposed, camera well supported, etc.). Maybe for projecting behind a cutaway car used for doing street/driving shots in a studio environment. For that there would be no need to record sound.

Mention on another forum about finding the original dealer in a online copy of period phone book lead me to try again. This time with more success than in the past. The build card for my '33 says it was shipped to Lang Motors in Rochester, NY. And today I found a listing for Lang Motors in a 1934 Rochester city directory. They were located at 775 Culver Road. Here is the business directory: http://www.libraryweb.org/rochcitydir/images/1934/1934busdir.pdf Google maps street view shows that to be the boundry between a parking lot and a vintage building that actually looks like it might have been a small auto dealer at one time: https://maps.google.com/maps?q=775+Culver+Road,+Rochester,+NY&hl=en&ll=43.15905,-77.566566&spn=0.040947,0.08729&sll=37.269174,-119.306607&sspn=11.428275,22.346191&oq=775+culver+road&hnear=775+Culver+Rd,+Rochester,+Monroe,+New+York+14609&t=m&z=14&layer=c&cbll=43.159161,-77.566556&panoid=2LP3Yv3_yVOf9Jk61Bhetw&cbp=12,247.32,,0,-3.1 I can imagine my car, all shiny and new, parked in a showroom floor behind those large windows with the side parking area filled with used cars from people trading in their old heaps. . . Maybe time for some Photoshop pseudo-vintage photo work.

I got one this week claiming to be from Apple saying some services I've never setup have been suspended. Like yours, it had my name in it which is unusual for phishing email. Glanced at the email headers using the "show full headers option" on my email client and saw it came from a residential IP address in Australia. I'm guessing that some crooks have gotten a database of names and email addresses and are setting their "bot net" to work.

Interesting that the only references I see to this when I search is on car forums and gun forums. At least on the first couple of pages I see no mainstream news organization nor an official NYS website that might list proposed laws. Snopes does not appear to have anything on this. Yet. Sure sounds false to me.

The direction of rotation of a DC motor is determined by the relative directions of the magnetic fields of the armature and of the poles. Since on our old vehicles the pole magnetism is supplied by a field coil, reversing the polarity of the electricity on the system reverses both the poles and the armature so the motor will continue to run the same way. Most modern small DC motors now use rare earth magnets for the poles, so reversing the polarity of the power to them will reverse the direction of rotation as the direction of the armature magnetism is changed but not the field magnetism. This is one place where new and old DC motors act differently.

Cool that they are in your area. They've gotten a lot of press on that and there are a number of videos around the net, like And a search turns up even more: http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=radio+flyer+car&oq=radio+fly

I think the answer was in his first sentence: "I got home from work last night to find that my new Diamondback radial AS4's had arrived." http://www.dbtires.com/

Seems like rain water, distilled out of the oceans and lakes and then condensed in the atmosphere, would have as much CO2 in it as possible as well as acidic pollutants like SO2. So if distilled water is bad wouldn't rain water be worse?

Maybe, just maybe, you've discovered what was going wrong with your brakes.

The quote was about a Plymouth/Dodge engine but the 25" engine, at least in the US, was used for DeSoto and Chrysler. But I don't think there is a big difference in the way the oiling system is designed (other than possible provision for full flow oil filter). I'm only a shade tree mechanic and I've not built up an engine for high performance, so I am probably missing something. But if the pressure in the main gallery is sufficient then it seems likely that the crank main bearings should be getting enough oil regardless of how much oil is going through the cam bearings. And the pressure in the main gallery is what is measured by the oil pressure gauge on the dash. So I would take that quote from the HAMB with a grain of salt.

Curious. You say she wrenches on the cars as much as you do. . . And she has experience driving a convertible of the same vintage so she knows what they are about. Yet the modifications you are asking opinions about are all prefaced with "I want", "I will" or "I am". Seems like her opinion should be above those of members of this forum.

Having had a hub come off because of a forgotten cotter pin, I can attest to the efficacy of having a loose nut as a way to loosen up the fit of the hub on the axle taper. Of course you don't know how long it will take. In my case it was about 6 weeks. But I prefer to use a puller. From http://www.ply33.com/Repair/axle_seal/