TodFitch

Lots of other good comments already but I don't see a reference to this. All cars have bearings on the big end of the rods. I think you are asking if the bearings are poured babbit or inserts and if inserts if they are modern style with a thin steel shell. Your 201 came from the factory with modern style thin steel shell bearings that are still readily available. The bearings in your car are the same for Plymouth from 1933 through 1941. In 1942 when they introduced the 218 they changed out a bunch of stuff including all of the bearings.

It was my understanding/guess that the rotor type pump was considered a high volume pump while the spur gear type was not. NapaOnline shows no cross for the original spur gear type Chrysler part number of 1124735 but does show a oil pump when you search for 1948 Plymouth: SEP 2244160. So much for that ePay ad claim that this item is hard to find and you should stock up on it.

Only need to drive as far as the Gilroy CalTrain station. . . Beats the heck out of rush hour(s) traffic on US101 and/or Calif. 85 regardless of what vehicle you have.

No noise, vibration or signs of anything wrong? Is there play in the universals? They should be able to slide in and out but there should be no rotational play and if you feel the inside of the housing where the ball runs it should be straight and smooth. If so then you might be able to just clean the old lube out and repack them with no need to buy a replacement set.

Or you can have a computer look it up in the tables for you. Here is what my web page at http://www.ply33.com/Misc/vin returns: Serial Number 20243924 Found in range 20233168 to 20299138 Serial 10757 of 65971 Year 1948 Make Plymouth Model Name Special DeLuxe Model Code P15C Plant Evansville Engine 6 cylinder 217.8 cu.in. L-head Wheelbase 117 inches

Used to? Wife's car is 12 years old while my everyday car is 9.5 years old. Both purchased new. I expect we will have both of those cars for another 10 or so years as they are holding up well. Rust is not an issue where I live so you can go until parts get too expensive for repairing a car or collision damage totals the vehicle.

Dodge and Chrysler are still around but Plymouth isn't and they all had similiar issues with design and quality over the years. So focusing on why Plymouth is gone, I'd suggest that Plymouth was sold through Chrysler-Plymouth dealers and there would have been a strong incentive to "upsell" every customer to a Chrysler. While at the Dodge dealer the focus would be on selling the Dodge. And, of course, having the Dodge and Plymouth models identical in later years simply made it worse as the corporation really didn't care if they sold the car with a Plymouth badge or a Dodge badge.

Good question. My '33 also has/had gaskets between each gauge and the overall instrument panel assembly. Not likely to be to control grounding as the screws are metal and will ground it anyway. On the '33 there is the possibility of rain getting through the cowl vent and getting on the back of the instruments so maybe that is a reason there but I think they fixed up the cowl vent system by the time your vehicle was built.

Roberts shows the filter in their online catalog with a similar price to the ones I've been seeing on ePay, so you can just order one from a known vendor. I've got a Mopar replaceable element filter housing that was specifically designed to replace the sealed canister setup and the instructions for it show that you can use the existing plumbing. So there are some housings out there that won't need the lines and fittings changed. On the other hand, those are easy to make if need be.

Yep. The location and time that the photo is taken on a typical smart phone and on newer dedicated cameras is stored in the EXIF data embedded in the photo. The first thing I did on my smart phone was disable the recording of the GPS information in any photo taken. Not sure it is possible to disable the time of day tagging though. And there are a lot of tools out there for taking the GPS latitude and longitude information and turning it back into a street address. So if you just have default settings and take and upload photos it is easy to find out when and where the photo was taken. There are tools for removing that data but I think it is just easier to not have it there in the first place.

While not perfect yet, my engine started idling much better when I put in a distributor that had less play in the bushings and less wear on the cam. I think that the cam was wobbling some which affected the ignition timing and coil saturation. . . Anyway, you might want to put your distributor on the bench and check the cam play with a dial indicator.

I typically get 4 to 7 years from my 6v batteries. The '33 only has 5.5:1 compression ratio so it might be easier to spin than the later cars. The 6v starter spins it over quite nicely. To me the biggie is how badly you might want to put something like air conditioning on the car or a 1,000 watt sound system. Those would be really tough to do on a 6v car. But for basic functionality (starter, lights, etc.) the 6v system, if in good repair, works just fine.

An old broom handle, cut to size, might be close enough in size. . . Can't remember if it is or not for my Plymouth but it might be.

Not just you. My parts book shows a Chrysler number 668479 for the P15 front wheel hub seal and Napa Online crosses that Chrysler number to NAPA NOS 17145 too.

Looking at the manifold from the passenger side, the heat riser is in the hot position when it is clockwise as far as it goes. Basically the spring holds the riser in the cold position. As it gets warm it weakens and the counterweight pulls it to the hot position. And, being a spring, if there is lots of exhaust gas flow, the spring will give way to that too allowing the riser to move to the hot position. You can see that on a cold engine by goosing the throttle and watching the counterweight move toward the hot position.

"California 101"? Last I checked it is still "US 101" Wasn't my car and I can't think off hand of a owner of a red P15 near me. . .

On my older car there are, I think, three adjustments on the steering box that need to be done in the correct order per the service manual. By design the worm and sector gears are such that there is closer fit between the gears in the straight ahead position. If you try to adjust the box with the wheel not centered then you will have binding as you go past the area that should have been in the center when you adjusted it. . . Based on that I am guessing that (1) the design on your later box is similar and (2) that it is mis-adjusted. You probably should get the factory service manual for your car and just follow the adjustment instructions that are in it. . .

If it is too wrong, some one will flag it to a moderator who can move it. Would you like in the P15-D24 forum rather than technical forum?

Don't have a parts book for the truck side, but on the car side for my era there are three different lengths of bolts used on the car (one for the rear and two different ones for the front). Might want to let people know how long the bolts are that you need. . .

Still 25 years to the best of my knowledge. Hard for me to think of a 1988 car as an antique. If it could have been equipped with AC and cruise control from the factory then it is a late model car to me.

I've got Firefox configured to block pop ups, Ghostery installed to block the tracking code, etc. Between all that and viewing this site using either a Mac or Linux, I don't see those popups.

If you don't want to change the body position, butcher the firewall or change the hood or grill assembly I don't see how it can be done. There is only an inch or so between the stock 23 inch engine and the firewall and maybe 1/2 inch or so between the fan and the radiator. . . Fitting a two inch longer block in there without making the area a little bigger will be quite a challange. On '34 (or maybe '35) and earlier the transmission mount and shift lever are funky: The shift lever mounts to a frame cross member not to the transmission. Haven't got a clue if the bolt pattern on the Chrylser engine will mount up to the Dodge bell housing. Pretty sure the '33/'34 Plymouth and Dodge used the same bolt pattern for many years and in later years people have done that swap so maybe it's possible but I haven't seen a car with the combination you are talking about. . .

My "main page" is set for search results for items I've not yet read. Makes no difference if it is posted on the car side, truck side, off topic area, etc., the thread and post will show up. Only down side is it means I often don't notice what area the thread is officially in.

If I understand what I've read, basically the blocking high in the eastern Pacific that made California so hot and dry this last winter moved the storm tracks up, east and then down into the Midwest so they got all our usual moisture, chilled by its passage north. So the ice in Wisconsin is the flip side of the heat in California.

Does that extend to web forums too?