TodFitch

Probably not an automotive application. . . They stopped using screw thread bases and went to bayonet bases on cars really early on when they found the vibration caused the screw type to work loose. Maybe a film projector?

I was under the impression that Mopar in the 1950s used a 10 ohm to 78 ohm range. I think with the lower number being full.

If you can't get the mushy out you might have a pin hole leak somewhere. I think pressure bleeding is the way to go: Makes it a one person job and a pretty easy one at that. With that said, I still need to go around all the wheels a couple of times to get all the air out.

Not mine to sell. . . Just trying to get a ball park estimate value for my mother. If/when she makes a decision to sell then we can pursue this further. Mildly amused by the big V8 in a 4x4 being "needed" in some areas. Wonder how all of our ancesters got by in the 20s, 30s, 40s, 50s, 60s and 70s before the 4x4 craze got started. Must never have driven anywhere. Especially in the pre-WW2 period when about 90% of all roads were unpaved. Back when I got my '33 in the 1970s in upstate NY I found that it was an excellent snow car even without snow tires, studs or chains: Reasonable ground clearance, narrow tires to go through the snow and get traction and not so much power to break the wheels free if you just touched the accelerator. Hardly need a 4x4 when you have that going for you.

Maybe so. In that case I guess I'll just have to figure out on my own why the heater doesn't keep up when I signal a turn.

Shel_bizzy_48 gave you the hot and cold positions but, at least on my '33, the heat riser design is such that if the flap is free and there is enough exhaust flow it will move to the hot position even if cold. If the spring is missing or broken and you have the counterweight installed it should just sit in the hot position.

Nice truck but I don't think "restoration" is the correct word for the work done on it.

I generally don't forget to stop signaling after a turn. . . My arm gets tired. On the other hand a lot of people think I'm waving at them and don't realize I'm signaling a turn. Someday I'm going to have to consult with Click'n'Clack about the fact that my car heater seems to become ineffective when I signal turns in winter.

I guess this is something people can agree to disagree on. I don't think the paper element type bypass filters are worth much but the depth media type (like the sock elements) can filter our finer particles than the full flow filters. The ideal situation is to have both a depth media bypass filter and a paper element full flow filter.

I find popping off the crank hole cover and inserting the hand crank is easier. But I guess you can't do that on your newer cars. Helps to have all the plugs out too otherwise you are bound to overshoot your mark as the compression in the cylinder helps you past where you wanted to be.

It it was equipped with an oil filter then it would be one of several bypass type filters. Some of which are no longer available and some of which have elements you can still get at your local auto supply. So the oil filter answer is "it depends".

2 o'clock is nearly 360° of crank rotation away from 7 o'clock. Since you got a little popping with the wires in the other position it sounds like maybe the distributor has been indexed wrong.

Probably 80 to 100 miles from the Phoenix metro area. Almost sounds like someone in the family should keep it for 7 more years, when it turns 25 years old detail it out and pull in a few show trophies to raise it's market value. Its a small town and everybody knows everybody. I'm beginning to think that if a relative doesn't get it Mom will spread the word around town and sell it to whoever she considers most deserving.

So, are you related to Red Green?

Okay, I should be going to a place like Kelly Blue Book but I trust the combined wisdom of this forum more. My father recently passed away and Mom does not think she has use for the pickup truck he refused to sell. And with her bad leg she probably couldn't manage the clutch anyway. Vehicles details according to the log book Dad kept in the truck: 1995 Dodge Ram 1500 WS Purchased new in April of 1995 from a dealer in Tucson 3.9L V6 engine AC PS 5 speed manual transmission 3.21 rear axle long wheel base regular cab Current condition: Duraliner bed liner (I assume its been there since new but don't know) 10,974 total miles Log book in glove box with all fuel, repairs, etc. since new. I bet I can find a folder in his home office with all the service records. Located in south central Arizona, always kept under a carport. Good tread on tires. Probably some sun damage to the passenger side (west side) tires. Battery replace about a year ago Pretty dirty at moment but sighting down the sides I see no bumps or dings. Being an Arizona vehicle I'd be surprised if there was any rust. Certainly none visible even looking under the bed and wheel wells. Interior in dusty but otherwise excellent shape. Might be some rodent damage to wiring or hoses but I did not see anything obvious. I might know more tomorrow when I use it to haul some stuff to the dump transfer station. Seems like with the exception of the V6 engine rather than a V8 it seems like it might be a desirable work truck. Any idea about the market value, specifically in Southern Arizona but if it is worth enough more elsewhere to warrant transport that would be good to know. Nephew might want it but we'd want a reasonable market value estimate for that too. Thanks for letting me abuse this forum.

Might check the oil pressure relief valve: It has two functions the first is to limit the high pressure but the second is to shut off flow of oil through the by-pass filter if the pressure is too low. If that second function is not working then you could be losing pressure through the filter.

The Internet, from Day One, has been basically as private as a billboard located on a major highway. The fact that Google and some of the other search engines will honor a block request on a site is good. But they have no legal obligation to do that and they may still be monitoring and tracking it themselves, just not listing the results in search requests. Remember that Google, Facebook and others make their money by selling information about you to advertisers and the more they can find out about you the more money they make. Big Brother is here but it is not the government you need to worry about, it is big business. Not that the government might not also be harvesting information on you but they are not being as blatant about it or selling the information gathered. Even GTK on this site is assisting the data harvesters: my blocking software shows tracking bugs for Facebook and Google here. The web sites I program for a couple of the organizations I belong to are setup so no member specific information is made available to anyone or any web crawler unless they are logged in. And while getting information about my visitors might be nice, I refuse to add tracking bugs for the likes of Google, to help me get that information. But most sites are not programmed that way.

Many years ago on, I think, the first version of the P15-D24 forum, GTK posted that Dodge trucks were sometimes fitted with a governor that limited the engine RPM to 3200. Take the mounted tire diameter and the rear end ratio the truck has and convert that RPM to a speed.

1. Remove the temperature gauge from the car (good chance of damage doing that). 2. Put sensing bulb in to boiling water (known 212°F) 3. Bend linkage between the coiled up Bourdon tube and the needle to adjust reading. Do not bend the needle or the Bourdon tube itself. 4. Re-install temperature gauge. Manual says there is a limit to the adjustment possible service manual says 30°F.

I haven't had a ride in your car so I don't know the condition of the engine but I trust Don's judgement on that. . . We've been conditioned by post '73 oil crisis car gearing to assume that its bad to run the engines at 3000 to 3400 RPM all day but that is how the vehicle was designed and they are quite happy at that RPM. I have no intention of swapping out my 4.375 to 1 rear end on my '33 as it works just fine. And my 900 mile return trip from Tucson was mostly on freeways at 60 MPH. If my 80 year old vehicle can do that reliably I don't see why a 15 or so year newer car can't too.

Carl Brewer's autobiography claims that they came up with the idea for a better headlight design while consulting with GE lighting guys. Not sure if the ideas directly lead to the sealed beam or if GE people came up with everything on their own.

It has never dawned on me that tailgaters might be "hyper-milers". I just figured they are idiots. Seems like the vehicles I notice tailgating are ones that don't get all that great mileage (SUVs and pickup trucks), I would have thought that if they were worried about getting better mileage they'd have purchased a different vehicle.

GPS shows the speedo is pretty accurate, within one or two MPH. Screeming? Not really, I liken it to a sewing machine running fast. When I was a young child and we took trips in the family car, that was the sound of the highway and it brings back fond memories. I figure 60 MPH is about 3200 RPM with my 525-17 tires, the mounted diameter is about the same as for a 600-16.

If just going somewhere, I get on the freeway. But if I have the time for a longer drive and to study maps in advance I prefer the older two lane highways. For example, in April we drove from the SF Bay area to Tucson, about 900 miles without a single foot of freeway driving. Took three days. On the way back took the freeway. I find that people on the freeway are reasonably accommodating. Only issue is some will drive along in my blind spot while they look over the vehicle. That basically means two lanes are slowed down to my speed (typically 60 MPH).

Agree that it looks like a cover for the universal joint. Supposed to be tabs that hold that onto the joint and that cover holds the centering spring in.