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Young Ed

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Everything posted by Young Ed

  1. Dug my original bulb from my 48 out and it is indeed a Corcoran brown bulb. So I can say that's what they were using in Nov of 48 when my coupe was built.
  2. Technically the Mopar adjustment is hot and running too. My experience is getting it hot and then shutting it off and doing them quickly
  3. Longest trip in my Plymouths were both to Michigan. 48 to Detroit in 2008 2k miles round trip. Last year we took the 64 to Kalamazoo at about 1200 miles
  4. How many times did you try the weld thing? If just once I would try it a few more times before giving up on it. Also I've had good luck starting with a washer welded to the stud and then welding a nut to that.
  5. You need that putty stuff that Dad called dumdum. Not sure if that's it's actual name.
  6. I made myself a redneck lathe. My cordless drill will stand up on the battery. I bought a bolt large enough to fit through the dist body and long enough to chuck into my drill. Then I held a file to the dist while the drill turned. Checked it frequently for fit. When it started getting close I switched to emery cloth instead of the file. It's aluminum so it goes pretty quick.
  7. It probably is considered improper but I've never had a problem doing it. My 94 Dakota has 235k on the original clutch and I did most of that driving. No problems on any of the classics either
  8. Always. Like Merle said I'm back in first waiting for the green. I too will sit with the clutch up just enough to hold the vehicle but not enough to move forward
  9. Yes but now that I said that I am questioning if that was true across the lineup. Somewhere at home I have an original to my 48 bulb. It's got a date stamped on the back that is within a few days of my build date.
  10. Not sure on a 40 but the P15s used Corcoran brown bulbs. They look more similar to a modern bulb than the bullseye lights but still without the alignment pips
  11. 230 and 218 same bore. Use the 230 flywheel and you'll be golden
  12. You should ask for the engine # but a 49 Dodge should be a 230
  13. Supposedly the 39-47 truck vendors have a sending unit that replaced the 2 wire style with 1.
  14. There appears to be quite a few 51-52 Plymouths in that shot too
  15. Check dorman generic CV joint boots. I'm running them on my p15. They installed fairly easily but full disclosure I haven't been back under to inspect their longevity
  16. That's another good point. Most of the guys on here have pilot house trucks which have the steel cross members. It's possible there was a change when they went to them from the wood ones. I did mine with all carriage bolts but I don't know if it's correct.
  17. You had some that good?? I think out of all the trucks we have you could maybe patch together one strip
  18. And 99.9% of people won't know the difference. Like I said just do the math to make sure the width comes out right and you'll be golden
  19. If you're going to wire the car I recommend pulling the dash and doing all the wiring on the bench.
  20. It's pretty easy to drill a round hole and file it square. I did many of them on my 47.
  21. I'll channel my inner GGDad here and tell you the only matching original ones come from Midwest military. However I'm running strips from Mar-k and I believe Roberts in my trucks. Just watch the width and make sure the bed still comes out to the proper width. My turkey truck thread should have some posts from building mine. I originally came out an inch or so wide because of the strips and had to widen the groves for them.
  22. The original wire had black markings on it to dictate gauge. You might be able to read them under the wrap. Beyond that for my 48 I used the 46-48 diagram for connections and the 49 diagram for wire size. In my 46-54 shop manual only the 49-54 diagrams list gauge. I also upgraded all the 16 in the car to 14
  23. I also thought about a second one and did the same thing with the shipping
  24. Anyone know if there is a 6v bulb?
  25. Hard to tell from that pic but they might be the 39-47 brackets
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