Young Ed
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Everything posted by Young Ed
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Ooh I just got one of those! I'll try to look this up later. But I believe they all work even with the different arm styles
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"truck" aka this frame has been moved onto a new owner. I took off a bunch of pieces I wanted and gave the rest away. Probably should have kept the manifolds off the engine but I ran out of time to pull them.
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Congrats. I've got all the pieces for OEM signals except that indicator! Someday I'll find one
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What year of truck are you working on?
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And the SAE is slightly more $ yet! I didn't shop around though so there might be cheaper options
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GEARWRENCH 5 Pc. 12 Pt. Reversible Half Moon Double Box Ratcheting Wrench Set, Metric - 9850 https://a.co/d/cybVRbM
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I'm in MN so that rust thing is a problem here too but my donor parts seem solid enough although not rust free. The original buckets were out of a Chrysler Sebring. Grabbed them because of the integrated shoulder belts. Currently I have a 90s Dakota bench seat sitting in the truck. It seems to fit very well and I'm leaning towards using it and just figuring out my own shoulder belts. The bench seat also fits the look of the truck better to me. I'm trying to go for something that looks old to the point I'm considering a 12v generator over the alternator
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I'm using a jeep liberty setup. The axle I swapped into this truck was pretty stripped. Like nothing there but the backing plates. So since I had to buy everything either way I went and got the liberty setup and bought new disk pieces.
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Ordered 2 of each so hopefully one will be good and I'll get this back on 4 wheels
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Yesterday I started on the rear disk brake conversion. Ran into a small roadblock of needing rear wheel seals. Does anyone know for a 94 Mopar 8.25 if they updated the seals? The ones I pulled clearly have a lip/flange on the outside but the new ones don't unless I look them up for a dana 35. The local parts store has them and they were too small even though they matched the appearance
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I have about $500 into all 3 of the ones I bought. Gotta be vigilant and watch. 2 came out of salvage yards and one came from a guy who engine swapped a 52 and just wanted the old drivetrain out of his way. Did have to take the flathead with that one though.... I don't think anyone confirmed your bolt in comment but it is a complete bolt in as long as you don't have one of the short WB models. If you do you'll need a shorter driveshaft. I'd expect a George refurbished unit to be 1k-1.5k
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Is it toonie or twonie?
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How Many Pilot House Trucks Have Survived?
Young Ed replied to Bradley S.'s topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Can we knock off the childish behavior? No one benefits from it -
Back on the project a little. Got the 4 running board hangers on the frame and started fitting the drivers side board. Other than a twist that I probably caused with my patching it seems to fit decently. I also found a Facebook group for the town of Suring WI that's called out on the door logo. Already got a reply from the great grandson of the Allen on the logo. Not only did Allen make snow fence he told me he invented the machine that produced it! The great grandson is going to look through family photos to see if there are any with the truck in them.
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If that's a 41 tag that would make that a new truck
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How to operate R-10? Non-Electric Overdrive...
Young Ed replied to bamfordsgarage's topic in P15-D24 Forum
If I remember Dads driving correctly he would occasionally flick the ignition off to get it to kick out. -
It's interesting how the rules change so much. We pay typically about .75 more than the regular but the no ethanol is only available in premium.
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Looks like a WWII blackout version
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You can see the square where the original bolt was cutoff. Knock that baby out of there and put in a fresh carriage bolt. Couple tacks to hold it and you're back in business. I think for the ones where I couldn't sneak the bolt in I cut one side and bent it enough to sneak it in and just welded the slot when I did the bolt
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Pro tip. If you have a bunch of transmissions and go hunting through them for the proper gear to match the 3.73 you swapped into your coupe make sure you reinstall all the wrong ones correctly. Otherwise later on when Dad goes to install one of those in place of the OD he's not selling with the 50 Plymouth bad things will happen to the new owner. Like the tail housing exploding....
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That number doesn't come up in my 51 Mopar parts book so it looks like your 49-50 only is right. I just inherited a bunch of Dads books I'll see if he has a 50 Plymouth parts book
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Do you have a part number? If it fits 49 or 51-52 or Plymouth you'd have a much bigger net.
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I was able to put carriage bolts and take them to the original brackets. I think on some of them I was able to wiggle them in and on some I had to manipulate the bracket to get the bolt in.
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You should be able to get a bellhousing from a non fluid drive and be good to go with the swap. Might have to go to a Plymouth as the source though as I'm not sure there was a non fluid drive dodge
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How about a slightly different issue. Same 6v only the car is Dads 55 Chrysler. Turns that big old hemi pretty slow. But lots more stuff to worry about if trying to convert. So far plan is to try and improve the 6v and make it work a little better
