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Young Ed

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Everything posted by Young Ed

  1. I'd suggest pulling the head and swapping the MMO for ATF. You can also see if something is obviously wrong and it's not going to unstick.
  2. Thanks for setting me straight. I didn't realize the first 2 years with the visible cylinders weren't the same.
  3. 33 and 34 were before the 201. I think they are 176
  4. The arms came in multiple styles but they interchange. The only part that makes it a truck pump is the outside design for body clearance
  5. The original posters problem is that in the mid 50s somewhere they went to an electric gauge with a sending unit. Those heads have a significantly smaller hole than the mechanical gauge ones.
  6. I studied this once upon a time. The R10 is significantly longer and will require modifications to the cross member that is just behind the stock 3spd. I also had to do this for my T5 install. You will also need to somehow account for the input shaft retainer hole in the bell housing being too big on the truck bell. If you try to go to the car bell that brings it's own issues as you lose the clutch and brake pedals along with the MC mount.
  7. Yup don't know anyone who would sit on a truck......
  8. I don't understand how the politics of one country would drive you to leave a worldwide membership forum that has a strict ban on political posts
  9. I have an optima in my 46. For the first 5ish years the battery was held in with a bungie cord. When that died I added two riv nuts to the bottom of the tray. Then I made a I strap that goes over the top of the battery and bolts down to the riv nuts.
  10. The difference I found on the 1080 vs 1010 is the center hole mount. The 80 has a fiberous washer while the 10 has an o ring. Our 2 modern minivans also have drop in filters so for some reason the industry is trending back that way. Possibly to avoid having to remove or engineer all the plastic air dams on the bottom of the car to still allow a spin on filter removal.
  11. What does your thermostat housing look like? You appear to have the correct pieces for a modern thermostat
  12. The dodge ones aren't nearly as rare as the Plymouth version which didn't make a comeback after the war
  13. Some of them are pretty rare. The Plymouth town sedan sure is. I've only seen pictures of one
  14. You don't want it to be lose. It'll rock back and forth and break the key or the keyway
  15. I would think for the engine and trans if you can get them drained quickly and oil back where it belongs they shouldn't need total rebuilds. Your bigger issues are stuff like wiring and rust from stuff settling into all the little nooks
  16. It's the bottom piece of the readily available thermostat that the auto stores sell. A conventional thermostat goes into that piece and then a rubber gasket on top. Commence with knocking it out of place and replacing
  17. The first 2 years of the flathead have exposed cylinders without water jackets. So the block is more narrow. This is what causes the mismatch you are thinking of
  18. I'm not sure how to do the power windows but Bernbaum recently starting reproducing those rollers
  19. Some more random stuff from the same box. The horn ring looks like a broken off p15 except it's so smooth I'm thinking it's from something else like a 41-42. Part # on the back is 864204
  20. I believe the lower ones (quantity 3) are 42 Plymouth. The uppers 41 or???
  21. The part that was one time use was just the clamp. We knew it did more than that but didn't know it was not to be removed. I will say though the pictures in your TSB make it look like they've updated the part to a better design
  22. Helped a friend put new pads on a 2020 Subaru outback today. It has an electric parking brake so the directions we found have you disconnecting the battery to allow service of the pads. Everything goes smoothly until we go to reinstall the battery. Apparently the cable has some strange one time use connection and you're supposed to undo the other 2 connections rather than pull the terminal connection. Who has ever heard of a 1 time use battery connection!!?!!!??!!!! The piece we needed is of course dealer only and it was past closing time by the time we discovered all this. Here is my solution to get him back on the road until he can source a new piece
  23. You should be looking for fronts then too.
  24. Here is some real world experience. Dad got a 50 coupe. Somewhere he found a decent engine. When we took it apart water had gotten into #6. The machine shop gave him used pistons that someone had put new rings on only to discover they needed an overbore. I don't recall if we used those or transferred them to the existing pistons (I feel transferring them is more likely)but either way it got honed and new rings. That cylinder still has deep pits from the rust but it ran perfectly except for a little smoke. So if I was in your shoes I'd make sure the pin won't hit the wall again and run it.
  25. If that is the case I suggest you start your search with a decently strong magnet.
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