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Young Ed

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Everything posted by Young Ed

  1. Young Ed
    Wow 41 with the California low headlights. I'm still hunting for a set of those lower stainless bars.
  2. Young Ed
    You should be able to fit a tumbler and key set to your existing switch pretty easily
  3. Young Ed
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/173002793410?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=JXn8xyoHQqK&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=jPrPlFMQQw2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY This is the heater style but it would work. A call into them might find out they have the other style too. And it's cheaper to not order via ebay
  4. Young Ed
    Mine was from Napa but that was probably 15 years ago.
  5. Young Ed
    I would suggest starting your own thread over on the truck side. And I agree with the last reply. Get it running on a gas can before diving into tank replacement
  6. Young Ed
    Get yourself a HD generic choke cable to use for a hood release cable. Mine has a chrome T handle and works well.
  7. Young Ed
    Have you checked vintage jeep places or vintage power wagons?
  8. Young Ed
    I've been running rotella 10w40 or 15w40 in mine for a few years now.
  9. Young Ed
    Not sure if that data plate tells it for sure but I would guess 87 HP means 218. To be sure pull the plus over the #6 cylinder and use a stiff piece of wire to measure the stroke.
  10. Young Ed
    I was watching YouTube I think Vicegrip garage and they called the manufacturer of the stop leak. They aren't designed for our old none pressure systems.
  11. Young Ed
    Looks like there might be 2 of them
  12. Young Ed
    If you go to bernbaum directly they are only $27. I'm sure they are marked up to cover the eBay fees
  13. Young Ed
    Not cheap but the pads are available. I'm sure a quick call to bernbaum would get you fitment info https://www.ebay.com/itm/174057206733?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=JXn8xyoHQqK&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=jPrPlFMQQw2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
  14. Young Ed
    It doesn't do either. It holds a set screw that you access from the door edge. Very hard to get apart. Also you should post on the truck side - you'll get a better chance of a reply.
  15. Young Ed
    I do agree with some of your points. Metal repair and body work are the most expensive parts especially if you can't DIY. Buy the best truck you can afford. Hopefully they'll make it run and you can strike a deal. If they can't find the key or it won't start use that as a negotiation point
  16. Young Ed
    Yes the truck parts are going to be harder to find than the Chevy but that doesn't mean they're impossible. That would include sheet metal and mechanical stuff.
  17. Young Ed
    I hope I don't have the same one you had! Mine is an eBay special
  18. Young Ed
    I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one like that. My 48s valves were set by the machine shop almost 30k miles ago and haven't been touched since. These posts usually make me wonder if I should actually check them...
  19. Young Ed
    Mine has no original wiring left. Just a few random ones I added to make it run. However I'm going 12v for this one so I bought a generic harness which makes it slightly more complicated
  20. Young Ed
    29y makes me feel much better about my truck project. I think I'm around the decade mark. I need to wrap my brain around the wiring and get that going. That and front brakes should make it a driver at least around the driveway.
  21. Young Ed
    Think of all the fun you'd be having if you had a W series. Our cross members are wood along with the bed floor. Bed is looking nice!
  22. Young Ed
    Now it's been a while since I've messed with them and it's in storage so I can't check but I think I have the next level up generic lights because I believe I have metal housing
  23. Young Ed
    I'm still running those temporary lights 20y later. If they work they work
  24. Young Ed
    I've been buying that wire loom stuff by the foot from Mac's. They are a Ford place but that stuff isn't specific.
  25. Young Ed
    Those armrests look like they might be early 50s Plymouth.
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