Tom Skinner

Dear Claybill and Frankie, See we are good for something! I like to contribute by adding contacts for parts and such. It is the new guys that need us most. When we think we are to good to contribute helpful conversation, then the Forum will suffer, that is why I think so highly of Don Coatney and all of the Zen Warriors out there, they have the most experience and knowledge that is so well documented. We owe them a debt of gratitude. My hat is off to all that help others - Thank You for helping others! Tom

NAPA non-detergent straight 30 wt. specifically formulated for cars before 1975. See your Owners Manual Straight Weights with no detergents were the norm. On a Flathead 1948 Chrysler 20 Weight is sugested until "the miles are high" then a 30 wt straight. I think an old Flathead cosidered anything above 50,000 miles kind of "high". Tom

Vaslov1949, oldpartstom@aol.com sells springs and heat riser kits with instructions. get it fixed and your car will run much better. It sounds like your spring is not adjusted right, however when you repair it yourself it will be right. Like the old saying goes - if you want something done right then do it yourself. To leave it be as open only burns rich when cold (cold out) and fouls plugs. Read the Forums Texhnical section on it and if that doesn't help buy Old Parts Toms spring with instructions and repair it. Somewhere around $30 Tom

Dear B Kahler, Thanks! my fault. I can check my dwell and do a similar test so this is still all good information. Thanks Again! Tom

Dear Grey Beard, Can you please clarify something in your disertation? How can one crank the engine with the key off? How can one gently bump the engine around to TDC on the pulley with the key off? I apologize in advance for my ignorance, however in my 1948 Chrysler 6 Cylinder C-38 Flat Head, with the key off I can't crank/bump anything. I think you have a typo there and it should read with the key on. I am only trying to understand and learn so I can aply this method to my car. Thanks! Tom Skinner

Like DezelDoc said Paint it and Prep it first, or even last, here is why. Someone that owns the car down the road when we are gone will appreciate your efforts also. Its murder cleaning up behind undercoating. A gimmick to hide rust used in the 70's on alot of our old cars. My first 1948 Chrysler Royal that I bought in 1974 with 32,000 original miles had nothing but the Paint Color under the Body and High Gloss Black Paint on the Frame and Chassis. The 1948 Chrysler I bought 3 years ago with 52,000 original miles has the same. So I doubt very highly dealerships were spraying undercoating all over the bottom of cars back in the 1940's. That practice came later on. To hide rust and problems. Get under there and see what taking it off entails like I have. It is no cake walk. Its more like a walk through hell wearing a winter coat. Don't be fooled by a quick pretty it up because ultimately you'll wreck the value of your own car. An eye for quality will not except it. Cean it up and Paint it, that is true restoration work. Just my Opinion - please don't get pissed off and vent do your home work true valueable restored cars are not undercoated.

Thanks Merle, I started at TDC #1 A Position and my Exhaust Valve on #3 Cylinder was OPEN and could not be set to .012 until I rotated to TDC #6 only halfway around the Distributor #3 then upon B Position allowed me to set it. So maybe I was backwards, I will check em all again Saturday. Incidently I thought it (The Adjusting Nut Was Stubborn to turn) What does that mean? Tom

Oh and another question. The book says to check them Hot with the Motor running. Now how in the Heck would anyone do that with them (The Vaves) jumping Up and Down Fast??????????????

Good Evening.............. I went to check my Valves today and when I got to the 3rd Exhaust Valve in the A Position (#1 TDC in was UP-Open not down) I had to go to the B Position (#6 TDC) to check it. What the heck??????? The Forum Technical Archives show it the other way (In #1 TDC A Position) the Third Cylinder Exhaust Valve should show .010 Hot. Mine was Up and Open, I couldnt check it. All of my first three Cylinders otherwise checked fine. I stopped after 3 because I'm getting burned under there so when I open the Back Door for 4-6 it will probably Transpose again???????????? Any Ideas?? Tom My Motor is a 250.6 cu. in. Spitfire 6 otherwise runs quiet, however some clicking when cold because I noticed so far my Exhaust Valves are set at .012 took it for a test drive at 50mph everything fine. Anyone else notice this?

Old Woolie, Come back, I'll stand by you, I to am a Purist Flake as they called us. You can do it Ol Woolie - Come Back. We got a great big Convoy across the USA - Convoy...... And we ain't ah gonah pay no Tolls. This is Rubber Duck come in Ol Woolie..................

Bill, The 70/30 mix is best. I also was running 180-185 and took my radiator out and flushed it. No change. I then reset my timing (retarded) it slightly, and it runs 165-170 now at almost any temperature (85-95 degrees out). I got alot of crap out of the radiator when I turned it upside down and ran water through it, and I think it helped the flow considerably, however, when I reset the timing a tad it brought down the temperature nicely. Tom

True. When I wash my car (even though I caulked the seam under my chrome trim) on the center of my hood and re-installed my chrome. there is always water laying in the spark plug wells. Ever Wet would be the best description indeed. Tom

Jim, I don't know about Borg Warn overdrives. Just M6 Fluid Drives in 1948 Chrysler Royals (have had 2 such cars) for the last 35 years. As for all that changing out wire harnesses stuff Dodge4ya is talking about I would opt for changing out that 3-1/2 Pints of 10wt oil in the tranny and setting my Idle down and going for a test drive before spending a grand on wiring. Of course checking the fuse etc is prudent and running some diagnostic checks (electrical) if the couple of things I mention above didn't help. All in all great advice has been given above, but by all means keep it simple. One doesn't need a tranny overhaul or wiring overhaul to get their tranny to upshift. In his book "A Chrysler Chronicle" Dave Floyd describes how he mixes a little kerosene (say 1 pint to the 2-1/2 pints of 10wt oil) into the tranny. Then drive say 10-20 miles, dump it and add back straight 10wt oil. In this way Dave Floyd rinsed the gunk out of his Fluid Drive Tranny. It then shifted real smooth. Of course cleaning the Filter will tell alot about the health of this transmission also. The Plug is magnetized and will attract loose fillings or burs that might tell of possible problems inside without taking it apart alot can be done to correct these tranny's they are all but bullet proof as said above. Tom

Dear 48Chrysler, If the engine is idling to high - say over 500 rpm it will not upshift. Of course the Fluid must be full as well because the pressure in that tranny has to be over 40psi to shift smoothly also. So if its racing (the motor) turn it back some and it will shift. Tom

Bradley S, I put my plug washers on with my everdry set. It worked OK for me that way. I have no idea? Can Don Coatney or somebody jump in here and enlighten us? Tom

Gee ain't Government great.

Alan, I also used Hobby Lobby stuff and got a great job. Lowes sells Large Clear Laquer Cans CHEAP! Remember if you Base Coat (Tan) with enamel you must seal with Laquer well before using Oil Paints to create Wood Graining. Oil over enamel will shrink and crack unless Laquer Sealed prior to Oil Paint application. I got a great job doing Carpatian Elm Burl in Walnut using a Stipple Brush with the Center cut out twirlling it using Burnt Umber. Keep your Brush dry. Use a rag/paper towel to keep your Brush relativly dry. Practice makes perfect you don't need artistic ability to do this. Finish up with 20-30 coats of spray Clear Laquer. Straight Grain is a Piece of Cake use a Stiff fan brush or 2" Hogs Hair Brush and run straight Grains. Use Mineral Spirits to clean up. Tom

Dear Jimainnj, Jim is right. Go around twice. Start at the wheel furthest from the Master Cylinder. Keep that Master Cylinder Full. Pump down full and back up slow. My wife does the pumping. Some place sell a little check valve, install it on your Bleeder Hose. Pump and Bleed those Babies until they flow clear "from the brim to the dregs" as old Blue eyes would sing in it was a very good year. I use a Quart Mason Jar. Fill it Half way with Brake Fluid drop your Bleeder Tube in it and begin. Go slow, its fun the second go through because your pedal gets real firm. Tom

Dear Radio Guy 7, I have also made an ass out of myself on this forum before just as you have here. I apologized to the man that I did that to, not the "forum guys". Don Coatney could use an apology right now, you can do it, or let this whole thing pass as it is. But I can tell you it made me feel better to say I'm sorry to someone when I tresspassed against them. This can only bring true peace and friendship. For you peace of mind. For the forum and Don a new friend. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

I use Non-Detergent straight 30 Weight NAPA. No problems. Tom

Tim, Thanks! Tom

Tim, OK, so do I have to remove the Wheel, Shocks? Please walk me through it so I know the steps. Tom

Gents, I have a question. What are the steps in removing the old Silencers at the Rear Springs.Do I have to disconnect the Shocks, and Shackles? Tom

Gents, I did some research. To do this yourself is about out of the question. If I can find someone reasonable I will gladly pay them to rechrome my parts. Buying old cars that need less work is now more desirable than doing alot of work (read Chrome) than ever before. I saw that guys hands at the show - burnt to heck (Skin) from Chemicals. I'd rather pay to get it done than burn my hands for life. Tom

Greeting from Huntersville North Carolina, after the Lowe's Motor Speedway Show. I had my 1948 Chrysler there with the Carolina Chrysler Club. Fine weather, friends, and show, a great Day all the way around. A Chrome Vender came over to look at a couple of Pot Metal Parts I have that have minimal Pitting, a Hood Ornament and Tail Light Housing. He wanted like $480 for both with a minimum 8 week turn around. I used to get entire bumpers rechromed for $100, what happened? I have a friend near here that said he would do them for alot less. He uses good Strip, Copper, Repair, Copper Nickel, and Chrome technique. I tried getting Quotes from other Plate Shops with Digital Images, and their prices were as rediculous as today's. I am in Construction and working for alot less right now, so how is it Chrome Shop's pricing is still climbing? Maybe I'll open a Chrome Shop - hell at those prices I could do 4 little pieces a Day and make around $250,000.00 Revenue a year, at 20% Profit I would make $50,000.00 a year Gross Profit for the Company after I bought supplies and paid myself and a helper with the Overhead. What a Racket. Are Chemicals so expensive that they are causing a spike like this? Tom