Tom Skinner

Dear 48Chrysler, If the engine is idling to high - say over 500 rpm it will not upshift. Of course the Fluid must be full as well because the pressure in that tranny has to be over 40psi to shift smoothly also. So if its racing (the motor) turn it back some and it will shift. Tom

Bradley S, I put my plug washers on with my everdry set. It worked OK for me that way. I have no idea? Can Don Coatney or somebody jump in here and enlighten us? Tom

Gee ain't Government great.

Alan, I also used Hobby Lobby stuff and got a great job. Lowes sells Large Clear Laquer Cans CHEAP! Remember if you Base Coat (Tan) with enamel you must seal with Laquer well before using Oil Paints to create Wood Graining. Oil over enamel will shrink and crack unless Laquer Sealed prior to Oil Paint application. I got a great job doing Carpatian Elm Burl in Walnut using a Stipple Brush with the Center cut out twirlling it using Burnt Umber. Keep your Brush dry. Use a rag/paper towel to keep your Brush relativly dry. Practice makes perfect you don't need artistic ability to do this. Finish up with 20-30 coats of spray Clear Laquer. Straight Grain is a Piece of Cake use a Stiff fan brush or 2" Hogs Hair Brush and run straight Grains. Use Mineral Spirits to clean up. Tom

Dear Jimainnj, Jim is right. Go around twice. Start at the wheel furthest from the Master Cylinder. Keep that Master Cylinder Full. Pump down full and back up slow. My wife does the pumping. Some place sell a little check valve, install it on your Bleeder Hose. Pump and Bleed those Babies until they flow clear "from the brim to the dregs" as old Blue eyes would sing in it was a very good year. I use a Quart Mason Jar. Fill it Half way with Brake Fluid drop your Bleeder Tube in it and begin. Go slow, its fun the second go through because your pedal gets real firm. Tom

Dear Radio Guy 7, I have also made an ass out of myself on this forum before just as you have here. I apologized to the man that I did that to, not the "forum guys". Don Coatney could use an apology right now, you can do it, or let this whole thing pass as it is. But I can tell you it made me feel better to say I'm sorry to someone when I tresspassed against them. This can only bring true peace and friendship. For you peace of mind. For the forum and Don a new friend. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

I use Non-Detergent straight 30 Weight NAPA. No problems. Tom

Tim, Thanks! Tom

Tim, OK, so do I have to remove the Wheel, Shocks? Please walk me through it so I know the steps. Tom

Gents, I have a question. What are the steps in removing the old Silencers at the Rear Springs.Do I have to disconnect the Shocks, and Shackles? Tom

Gents, I did some research. To do this yourself is about out of the question. If I can find someone reasonable I will gladly pay them to rechrome my parts. Buying old cars that need less work is now more desirable than doing alot of work (read Chrome) than ever before. I saw that guys hands at the show - burnt to heck (Skin) from Chemicals. I'd rather pay to get it done than burn my hands for life. Tom

Greeting from Huntersville North Carolina, after the Lowe's Motor Speedway Show. I had my 1948 Chrysler there with the Carolina Chrysler Club. Fine weather, friends, and show, a great Day all the way around. A Chrome Vender came over to look at a couple of Pot Metal Parts I have that have minimal Pitting, a Hood Ornament and Tail Light Housing. He wanted like $480 for both with a minimum 8 week turn around. I used to get entire bumpers rechromed for $100, what happened? I have a friend near here that said he would do them for alot less. He uses good Strip, Copper, Repair, Copper Nickel, and Chrome technique. I tried getting Quotes from other Plate Shops with Digital Images, and their prices were as rediculous as today's. I am in Construction and working for alot less right now, so how is it Chrome Shop's pricing is still climbing? Maybe I'll open a Chrome Shop - hell at those prices I could do 4 little pieces a Day and make around $250,000.00 Revenue a year, at 20% Profit I would make $50,000.00 a year Gross Profit for the Company after I bought supplies and paid myself and a helper with the Overhead. What a Racket. Are Chemicals so expensive that they are causing a spike like this? Tom

Dear Aforests, Jack Car up. Then Remove Wheel, Drum needs to be pulled with a Puller. Then once Brake Plate/Seal Bolts are loose the Axle will pull out/off by hand. Its real easy. Old Seals out with a Seal Puller (Any). Bump new Seals in with Small Block of Wood gently at third points - go slow don't bend/crimp them. Grease em put Axles back on, grease rear wheel bearings, re-install rear Seals Brakes Etc. Piece of Cake. I did mine in one afternoon without trouble. Tom Forgot to add drain pumkin first then refill afterwards

Dear Flattie, Good work! Tom

I use an Tach and Dwell to obtain Rpms. usually around 450 - 475 at Idle (warm for a Fluid Drive). Tools use em!!!!!! They are useful instuments that work.

Dear Flattie, Set your timing correctly then: Borrow a Vacuum Gauge. You warm up your engine, connect your Vacuum Gauge to plug on Intake Manifold, then turn your Idle Screw (In or Out) until you obtain your highest reading. This is done after your timing is set correctly. Thats how to obtain optimal performance out of our Flat Head Engines. Tom

"Halogen Bulbs for all Chrysler Products" - 6 Volt. Call Bill Hirsh, WPC #256 (800) 828-2061 396 Littleton Avenue Newark, NJ, 07103 email:hirschbill@aol.com This from WPC News Volume 40 Number 4, Page 22 (Dec. 2008) I have bought from Bill since the 70's he's your man for Halogen Bulbs. They do burn a little hotter. Tom

Bingster, I do have a couple of spare parts (mechanical) but no rear fender spears. They are rare. I had a little dent in each of mine and whittled a wooden dowel to fit it, and bumped them out with heat and a brass dowel. Not perfect but you have to really look to see where the dents used to be. Try this guy: http://www.mooresautosalvage.com/parts.asp He has alot of 40's Mopar stuff. Tom

Bingster, Thanks I will contact Mr. Bowers. The Rope, or Robe Rail I am refering to is indeed on the back of the front seat. I also have Pull Straps on both sides in the Rear Compartment/Seat. It has a Panel behind it that the Chrome Handles mount to. The Robe Rail Panel is Carpathian Elm Burl just like the Dash Board. I only know this because my first 1948 Chrysler Royal had one. I recently purchased (2007) another 1948 Chrysler Royal and then the Rope/Robe Rail, Handles and Panel to mount onto the rear of the front seat. The Panel is Painted and I must "Wood Grain It" to match the rest of the interior trim. The door Window Garnishings have Straight Graining on them, however the bottoms of the front seat Garnishings have worn from years of sweaty arms on them. (The Car is from NC where I live now and has never left the State). I probably will Re-Do the whole Wood Graining deal so they all match and look well "alike". Tom

Bingster, Please Sir, by all means let me know the Base Coat if you would. Thank You so much for sharing your knowledge, I will probably order some supplies from GIT this week. (Rollers, Base Coat, Ink and Plates) My guess is by observing the original pattern (Carpathian Elm Burl) on my original dash with a Mag Light and a Magnifying Glass in slow motion, that the roller method used by GIT was the original method used in 1948. That said, however, I am an oil artist of some 37 years and could probably re-create that pattern with a brush over my Robe Rail Panel and Dashboard at about a 20-40 hour sitting. I wonder if my time is worth all that given I would like to also re-wire the Dash etc. also, in other words, do it the right way faster and restoration work alongside this work as well. I know we can be hard headed at times in our methods but I think what is most important here is that we are all learning how to properly restore our automobile (Mopars). I observe detail quiet well and in my opinion (only my opinion) the dienock method may have been used on the window garnishings, not the Dashboards or Robe Rail Panels, there again I feel a straight grain is easy to create with a comb and brush. Thanks again! Tom

Bingster, That Carpathian Elm Pattern Tim Bowers is using on the Desoto Club Site is what I am after. I wonder what color he is using as a Base Coat (Opaque Base Background Color) before he starts in with the "Ink" Roller? I believe its a Raw Umber kind of Brown color with a tad of Neopolitan Yellow mixed in. or just a spaypainted Base Coat one Color something as simple a Elm Brown if there is such a thing. Tom

Bingster, Thanks! Tom

Gents, I have been practicing woodgraining with oil paints, brushes, rags, and combs, and have pretty much mastered the straight graining, however, there is a burl grain on my dash and my Robe Rail Panel on the rear of the front seat that I just can't quiet get. If I rag it with small marbles in the rag it comes close. If I cut a Cork to simulate a burl knot it doesn't quiet get it. I wonder what the painters used in the Chrysler Shops back then to simulate the Burl effect. Any Ideas? I don't really want to pay hundreds or thousands for the GIT Kit that is sold on line, but I am considering buying the pattern plate and roller for the burl. any ideas will be appreciated. Tom

Jim, I am also sorry to hear about your Clutch failure. The Free Play Don C. talks about is generally at least an inch, at the top of the Pedal. Maybe your Linkage was knocked out of whack when you did your Clutch job and needed adjusting so your Pedal Travel was correct. On your repair be sure to get a guy to check your adjustments against what you think is correct. I had a buddy up from Florida (Dell) test drive mine after I did a Clutch job and he said to adjust it out another 1/8" , after I did that it ran perfect. He drove it and Clutched it at around 25-30mph to feel for the correct free play. Make sure you have a bud to test drive it and adjust it with you. Preferably one that has done many Clutch jobs. Tom

Heck, If millions of Americans can walk away from their mortgages without a blink and no penalty involved, then I say (in NY accent) forgetta abouta man. send those jokers their magazine(s) back and tell them to pound salt. A namby pamby country like ours can do anything man, we are now all good for taking a s--t and falling back in it. Tough luck for those people that give a damn. I say go's go's anything go's someone will bail you out dude. Maybe Obama will pay the damn thing he's such a good guy.